What did you do with your Range Rover today

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My son Elliott is going through a parasitic drain, after three/four days it'll drain then battery. He's disconnected the heated seats as they are burnt out.... We've been through a couple of avenues but still there is something...
Set fire to it!🤭


Maybe buying an old series could improve things🤔
I’d pull a different fuse out every night til it stops. If you pull 2 every night Itl 1/2 the time to trace it then it’s 50/50 from there 😉
 
The problem with pulling fuses is that it can prevent 'heartbeat' communications if you disable a module by powering it down, which can mask the real cause or make things worse. Better IMO to measure volt drop across each fuse to determine which circuit has the parasitic / quiescent drain. There are tables available online which give the mV to mA conversion but make sure you get the ones for the correct type of fuses.
 
My next step is to use one of these. Put in each fuse in turn and do sleep test. Long process but hopefully will locate the problem.

Shows the actual current being drawn.
 

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A fuse is essentially a very low value resistor - it has to be otherwise it wouldn't rupture under excess current flow What you're doing is measuring the potential difference across the 'resistor', then using tables (rather than the original formulae) to give an approximation of current draw.
I say approximation because a lot depends upon the quality of the fuse fitted. VWG and other vehicle manufacturers supply accurate tables for the fuses fitted to their vehicles, as do some of the better fuse manufacturers. I doubt the generic fuses from fleabay or Amazon will give you an accurate measurement but it'll be a good indication.

It's a method I've been using regularly for a few years and it works reliably - it has to, it's just physics & maths.
 
So, after measuring fuses on 200mV scale & using my fuse current tester, it seems F1 was the only one showing any current flow at all but only 120-200mA which eventually dropped to about 20mA. Checked Radio, Instruments & Window Switch pack with no success. Sometimes the BECM would appear to be sleeping with zero mV across all fuses (except F1), but was still showing about 500mA battery drain.

Tried the BECM SID checks for GEMS, ABS & HEVAC ECU's, doing the sleep test after each one. finally after disconnecting C246 on the HEVAC the BECM sleeps after 2.5min, but the current remains around 500mA until the 5min point when it drops to 35-40mA :). Reconnected HEVAC and it randomly either stays at 500mA, or sometimes drops to 35mA.

Dug out an old HEVAC (faulty display), and tried that. Got the same 2.5min 500mA & 5min 35mA results as above. Finally swapped the main PCB over to the HEVAC with working display and all seems good now.

Car has stayed at 35mA for the last 15-20mins, so will repeat the test & re-assemble the interior.

It would be nice to have a more reliable indicator of full sleep than a dim LED, but I guess that's P38 ownership.
 
So, after measuring fuses on 200mV scale & using my fuse current tester, it seems F1 was the only one showing any current flow at all but only 120-200mA which eventually dropped to about 20mA. Checked Radio, Instruments & Window Switch pack with no success. Sometimes the BECM would appear to be sleeping with zero mV across all fuses (except F1), but was still showing about 500mA battery drain.

Tried the BECM SID checks for GEMS, ABS & HEVAC ECU's, doing the sleep test after each one. finally after disconnecting C246 on the HEVAC the BECM sleeps after 2.5min, but the current remains around 500mA until the 5min point when it drops to 35-40mA :). Reconnected HEVAC and it randomly either stays at 500mA, or sometimes drops to 35mA.

Dug out an old HEVAC (faulty display), and tried that. Got the same 2.5min 500mA & 5min 35mA results as above. Finally swapped the main PCB over to the HEVAC with working display and all seems good now.

Car has stayed at 35mA for the last 15-20mins, so will repeat the test & re-assemble the interior.

It would be nice to have a more reliable indicator of full sleep than a dim LED, but I guess that's P38 ownership.
That sounds like a result!
 
Replaced front rear suspension arms ('spring links') due to inner bush wear - NS one had deteriorated due to the engine oil cooler leak being left to, well, leak, for some time and the OS one was showing its age. The downside was finding oil down the bellhousing on the OS. A quick flick around with a mirror on as stick confirmed the oil cooler is OK and the turbo oil feed pipe 'O' rings (which I replaced when I changed the oil cooler) are OK. I'm hoping it's not the oil feed pipe leaking as that's less than fun to do....
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Further investigation required, it's not bad, more of a mist coat than any drips forming - but it needs resolving.
 
Never seen any P38 with that grill and I have a 95, a 99 and a late 00, I reckon it's and after market grill, looks nice though.
Standard drilled and painted, been discussed before.

Not for me.

J
 
Standard drilled and painted, been discussed before.

Not for me.

J
Probably lets more air through though ?
 
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