stuu
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 1,946
- Location
- Aberdeenshire
Stopped sulking with it, changed the sidelight bulb that was blown,
Might actually clean it tomorrow,
Might actually clean it tomorrow,
Shirley a longer breaker bar woulda been less abrupt?A Sledgehammer to crack a nut?
The last mechanic to work on this was way over enthusiastic with the impact driver. Tried a torque wrench then again on maximum, then a tyre iron, then with a hammer, then a lump hammer, finally a sledgehammer!
This is just to get the bloody wheel off so i can get to the ride height sensor!
View attachment 275683
5 feet of scaffold tube on the end of the P38 wheel nut key will shift almost anything.A Sledgehammer to crack a nut?
The last mechanic to work on this was way over enthusiastic with the impact driver. Tried a torque wrench then again on maximum, then a tyre iron, then with a hammer, then a lump hammer, finally a sledgehammer!
This is just to get the bloody wheel off so i can get to the ride height sensor!
View attachment 275683
That is what I used to keep a chunky GT550 fork stanchion for. But it seems to have gone missing in the move this year.5 feet of scaffold tube on the end of the P38 wheel nut key will shift almost anything.
Had same problem with my rears . Tried new impact wrench on them, no joy. Son had to put 4foot pole on breaker bar and then by standing and bouncing on it cracked the nuts. What the hell do these tyre fitters get out of it torquing the nuts so tight, don't they resalise to tight can cause damageA Sledgehammer to crack a nut?
The last mechanic to work on this was way over enthusiastic with the impact driver. Tried a torque wrench then again on maximum, then a tyre iron, then with a hammer, then a lump hammer, finally a sledgehammer!
This is just to get the bloody wheel off so i can get to the ride height sensor!
View attachment 275683
I didn't notice much difference TBH, I did 2 trips in my 4.6, one brim to brim and, one using the display, both same distance, showed 21.3mpgWell mine behaved beautifully to Brands and back a pleasure to drive and more room in the back for passengers, the trip read 32.4mpg in the end, i know they lie but its more than i have ever had so doing the modulation on the pump and a few other bits has made an improvement smother and quieter , i cant be bothered doing brim to brim so all in all a happy bunny
I’m surprised no one commented that although it’s useful to have freed the nuts - it wasn’t required in order to check the ride height sensor. I spent bloody ages getting the wheel off then the wheel arch trim - and then I could not understand why I could not find the bloody sensor, then when I did - I realised all the effort was pointless, at least in respect of checking the sensor.A Sledgehammer to crack a nut?
The last mechanic to work on this was way over enthusiastic with the impact driver. Tried a torque wrench then again on maximum, then a tyre iron, then with a hammer, then a lump hammer, finally a sledgehammer!
This is just to get the bloody wheel off so i can get to the ride height sensor!
View attachment 275683
Bolt holes?Today, removed the inlet manifold to get to the coolant hoses at the back of the engine and replaced the set of three hoses that connect the coolant fill tank with the engine. Went to put on a new inlet manifold and then realised it does not quite fit. Had to replace the old one instead.
If you can remover the sensor from its mounting, get it on a bench with a dvm and set to resistance. Clip it to the pins and find the resistance, I think it's the two outer pins!? Then slowly sweep the sensor through its range and closely watch the figures on the dvm. Any jumping or inconsistent readings mean the track inside has worn and gives bad feed back to the suspension system.I’m surprised no one commented that although it’s useful to have freed the nuts - it wasn’t required in order to check the ride height sensor. I spent bloody ages getting the wheel off then the wheel arch trim - and then I could not understand why I could not find the bloody sensor, then when I did - I realised all the effort was pointless, at least in respect of checking the sensor.
Either way, the job I was actually trying to do was to check and clean the contacts on the sensor coupler. Mission achieved - but no joy on fixing the underlying problem of an error on the Front Left sensor! Bugger.
Outer pins show total resistance, middle and either outer will show the variable resistance as the sensor arm is moved, both outers should be checkedIf you can remover the sensor from its mounting, get it on a bench with a dvm and set to resistance. Clip it to the pins and find the resistance, I think it's the two outer pins!? Then slowly sweep the sensor through its range and closely watch the figures on the dvm. Any jumping or inconsistent readings mean the track inside has worn and gives bad feed back to the suspension system.
Welcome To LandyZone, the Land Rover Forums!
Here at LandyZone we have plenty of very knowledgable members so if you have any questions about your Land Rover or just want to connect with other Landy owners, you're in the right place.
Registering is free and easy just click here, we hope to see you on the forums soon!