What did you do with your Range Rover today

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Stopped sulking with it, changed the sidelight bulb that was blown,
Might actually clean it tomorrow,
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A Sledgehammer to crack a nut?
The last mechanic to work on this was way over enthusiastic with the impact driver. Tried a torque wrench then again on maximum, then a tyre iron, then with a hammer, then a lump hammer, finally a sledgehammer!
This is just to get the bloody wheel off so i can get to the ride height sensor!
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A Sledgehammer to crack a nut?
The last mechanic to work on this was way over enthusiastic with the impact driver. Tried a torque wrench then again on maximum, then a tyre iron, then with a hammer, then a lump hammer, finally a sledgehammer!
This is just to get the bloody wheel off so i can get to the ride height sensor!
View attachment 275683
Shirley a longer breaker bar woulda been less abrupt?
 
A Sledgehammer to crack a nut?
The last mechanic to work on this was way over enthusiastic with the impact driver. Tried a torque wrench then again on maximum, then a tyre iron, then with a hammer, then a lump hammer, finally a sledgehammer!
This is just to get the bloody wheel off so i can get to the ride height sensor!
View attachment 275683
5 feet of scaffold tube on the end of the P38 wheel nut key will shift almost anything.
 
A Sledgehammer to crack a nut?
The last mechanic to work on this was way over enthusiastic with the impact driver. Tried a torque wrench then again on maximum, then a tyre iron, then with a hammer, then a lump hammer, finally a sledgehammer!
This is just to get the bloody wheel off so i can get to the ride height sensor!
View attachment 275683
Had same problem with my rears . Tried new impact wrench on them, no joy. Son had to put 4foot pole on breaker bar and then by standing and bouncing on it cracked the nuts. What the hell do these tyre fitters get out of it torquing the nuts so tight, don't they resalise to tight can cause damage
 
Well mine behaved beautifully to Brands and back a pleasure to drive and more room in the back for passengers, the trip read 32.4mpg in the end, i know they lie but its more than i have ever had so doing the modulation on the pump and a few other bits has made an improvement smother and quieter , i cant be bothered doing brim to brim so all in all a happy bunny :)
 
Well mine behaved beautifully to Brands and back a pleasure to drive and more room in the back for passengers, the trip read 32.4mpg in the end, i know they lie but its more than i have ever had so doing the modulation on the pump and a few other bits has made an improvement smother and quieter , i cant be bothered doing brim to brim so all in all a happy bunny :)
I didn't notice much difference TBH, I did 2 trips in my 4.6, one brim to brim and, one using the display, both same distance, showed 21.3mpg
on the display and, after calculation 19.9mpg brim to brim, I couldn't be arsed to do it again either, good enough for me.
 
A Sledgehammer to crack a nut?
The last mechanic to work on this was way over enthusiastic with the impact driver. Tried a torque wrench then again on maximum, then a tyre iron, then with a hammer, then a lump hammer, finally a sledgehammer!
This is just to get the bloody wheel off so i can get to the ride height sensor!
View attachment 275683
I’m surprised no one commented that although it’s useful to have freed the nuts - it wasn’t required in order to check the ride height sensor. I spent bloody ages getting the wheel off then the wheel arch trim - and then I could not understand why I could not find the bloody sensor, then when I did - I realised all the effort was pointless, at least in respect of checking the sensor.

Either way, the job I was actually trying to do was to check and clean the contacts on the sensor coupler. Mission achieved - but no joy on fixing the underlying problem of an error on the Front Left sensor! Bugger.
 
Today, removed the inlet manifold to get to the coolant hoses at the back of the engine and replaced the set of three hoses that connect the coolant fill tank with the engine. Went to put on a new inlet manifold and then realised it does not quite fit. Had to replace the old one instead.
 
I’m surprised no one commented that although it’s useful to have freed the nuts - it wasn’t required in order to check the ride height sensor. I spent bloody ages getting the wheel off then the wheel arch trim - and then I could not understand why I could not find the bloody sensor, then when I did - I realised all the effort was pointless, at least in respect of checking the sensor.

Either way, the job I was actually trying to do was to check and clean the contacts on the sensor coupler. Mission achieved - but no joy on fixing the underlying problem of an error on the Front Left sensor! Bugger.
If you can remover the sensor from its mounting, get it on a bench with a dvm and set to resistance. Clip it to the pins and find the resistance, I think it's the two outer pins!? Then slowly sweep the sensor through its range and closely watch the figures on the dvm. Any jumping or inconsistent readings mean the track inside has worn and gives bad feed back to the suspension system.
;)
 
If you can remover the sensor from its mounting, get it on a bench with a dvm and set to resistance. Clip it to the pins and find the resistance, I think it's the two outer pins!? Then slowly sweep the sensor through its range and closely watch the figures on the dvm. Any jumping or inconsistent readings mean the track inside has worn and gives bad feed back to the suspension system.
;)
Outer pins show total resistance, middle and either outer will show the variable resistance as the sensor arm is moved, both outers should be checked:)
 
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