Datatek
Well-Known Member
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- 44,887
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- Near Poitiers SW France
If the bulbs do not light when power is applied directly to the pins of the binnacle connector, then that can only be due to a break in the printed circuit in the binnacle that provides the voltage path or the earth path to the lamps. It's a simple circuit. However as various other back lights don't work, and you have tried another binnacle that should rule that out.G'day folks. So after the best part of 6 months trying to get these dash lights work in illuminating and they're still not working. So I'll try and cover one last time what I have done. All wires checked. Earth/ground points checked and cleaned where necessary. Plugs/connectors all checked. Connectors in the RHS kick panel have been removed and soldered as the connectors had a lot of corrosion on and in them. Dash binnacle removed and checked all bulbs, they were good. Checked power was getting to the bulbs both at the bulb and applying power to the pins that operate the lights and still not working. Tried a known used instrument cluster and that also didn't illuminate. When I turn on the ignition all of the warning lights etc. come on, the radio and HVAC dim as they should. The switches above the SAT NAV when pressed all of the lights work, just not the ones that illuminate them, so you can see what you're pressing in the dark. The centre console lights don't work around the gear selector and on the window panel. The cigarette lighter works as it should but the green ring doesn't illuminate.
So every single one of these bulbs and connectors have all been checked and had power applied to them to see the bulbs are good. I didn't want to rely on a visual check only. The fuse panel in the engine bay has been replaced as have all fuses. The BECM was sent off and any faults on it were cleared or fixed. I did find the green light for the clock had blown but the dash was all working correctly for the previous 2 years. So that's not the issue either.
So, where does this leave me? I am going to try and get the car through its MOT if I can. I know it needs two front tyres. The rears are new.
It's got the TC and ABS error for the front left abs sensor but that was replaced in January 2020. There shouldn't be anything else that would stop it from passing but I don't know.
The only option then is to sell the car because I just can't physically work on it anymore, I don't have a garage or workshop to put it into work on it, and, regardless, I can't afford to pay someone to do the work for me and the car needs a lot of work to get it to where I want it to be (I have quite a list of jobs to be done and prices of things needing to be replaced. The jobs needing to be done stop it from driving or make it unsafe to drive.
I've thought about keeping it for sentimental reasons but it would just sit there and it would get no further forward at all. So this means in the meantime through to the end of January we'll still be driving the car as normal.
We'll see what happens.
Again I say a big thank you to everyone that has offered advice over this past 6 months.
Craig
The lamps are fed from the BECM, a test lamp across the pins in the connector from the BECM would establish if there is voltage there.
Testing for voltage with a DVM is not always helpful as a DVM will show full voltage in a circuit that is unable to pass any current which is why I use a test lamp for this sort of thing.