What did you do with your Range Rover today

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That was one of my thoughts - carbon build up holding the exhausts off the seats would give zero compression. Obviously burning something but not well / cleanly.

Engine is smooth throughout so hopefully nothing dire to liners / rings / pistons. I might lift the cover that side and try cranking over by hand, see what the rockers are doing.
Oil was filthy when we got it, obviously not been done in far too long (or badly contaminated by this exact issue), wondering if that could jam the lifters and leave the valve off the seat otherwise.
Seen a full top end kit (except collets) from RPI for £165 - I've got a valve spring compressor so it might be adding that to the mix too. I read in RAVE the later exhaust vales had a different stem profile to reduce carbon buildup, but don't know when they changed. Otto is a 1996 build - probably about Feb - May from the dates on the plastics where we have found date stamps.
 
Scotiawhiskers said:
That was one of my thoughts - carbon build up holding the exhausts off the seats would give zero compression. Obviously burning something but not well / cleanly.

Engine is smooth throughout so hopefully nothing dire to liners / rings / pistons. I might lift the cover that side and try cranking over by hand, see what the rockers are doing.
Oil was filthy when we got it, obviously not been done in far too long (or badly contaminated by this exact issue), wondering if that could jam the lifters and leave the valve off the seat otherwise.
Seen a full top end kit (except collets) from RPI for £165 - I've got a valve spring compressor so it might be adding that to the mix too. I read in RAVE the later exhaust vales had a different stem profile to reduce carbon buildup, but don't know when they changed. Otto is a 1996 build - probably about Feb - May from the dates on the plastics where we have found date stamps.
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How much blow by do you have?
 
Henry_b said:
How much blow by do you have?
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Which on, beans or curry? :eek:

See above post early this afternoon - 150-175psi compression on 1,3,5,6,7,8.
Zero, or as near as makes no odds on 2 and 4. Camera shows black and carbon covered pistons.
Plug from 7 looked a bit cleaner on insulator than all the others, so suspect (as seems to generally be the case) that that is the combustion leak to the coolant.
 
Scotiawhiskers said:
Which on, beans or curry? :eek:

See above post early this afternoon - 150-175psi compression on 1,3,5,6,7,8.
Zero, or as near as makes no odds on 2 and 4. Camera shows black and carbon covered pistons.
Plug from 7 looked a bit cleaner on insulator than all the others, so suspect (as seems to generally be the case) that that is the combustion leak to the coolant.
Click to expand...

Blow by out the PCV system, oil filler cap is a good place to start does she pull a vaccum or try to blow the cap off?
 
Henry_b said:
Blow by out the PCV system, oil filler cap is a good place to start does she pull a vaccum or try to blow the cap off?
Click to expand...
Never knew to check that. I'll wind the plugs in properly and get the leads back on tomorrow, then test it after work. I'm guessing valves sealed and pressure past rings means high crankcase pressure, properly it should be sucking out from the crankcase through the intake system to burn excess vapour? Hasn't, AFAIK been smoking much / at all so shouldn't be sucking too much oil through.
 
Scotiawhiskers said:
Never knew to check that. I'll wind the plugs in properly and get the leads back on tomorrow, then test it after work. I'm guessing valves sealed and pressure past rings means high crankcase pressure, properly it should be sucking out from the crankcase through the intake system to burn excess vapour? Hasn't, AFAIK been smoking much / at all so shouldn't be sucking too much oil through.
Click to expand...
Yep if its got weak rings it'll be pressurizing the crankcase, with interesting results.

And yes it vents through in to the intake, for emissions reasons.. :)
 
Scotiawhiskers said:
Which on, beans or curry? :eek:

See above post early this afternoon - 150-175psi compression on 1,3,5,6,7,8.
Zero, or as near as makes no odds on 2 and 4. Camera shows black and carbon covered pistons.
Plug from 7 looked a bit cleaner on insulator than all the others, so suspect (as seems to generally be the case) that that is the combustion leak to the coolant.
Click to expand...

If you leave your compression adapter in place and then blow air in via it you should be able to hear if air is escaping via exhaust, intake or sump. Obviously turn it first so the valves should be shut.
 
Grrrrrr said:
If you leave your compression adapter in place and then blow air in via it you should be able to hear if air is escaping via exhaust, intake or sump. Obviously turn it first so the valves should be shut.
Click to expand...
A thing I learned about this from someone is a cheap-ish smoke machine. Blow it into the engine and then you can see if there are leaks coming out. It's not of much use outside though if it's windy. Just a thought.
Something like this would be ideal. I know it's expensive but if it helps it's gotta be good.

AUTOOL B07DC22RWS SDT-202 Automotive 12V Locator Support EVAP Fuel Detector SDT202 Car Pipe Leak Tester for All Vehicle
 
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On another note, I couldn't find a section on the forum for parts/items wanted or for sale. Could someone help point me in the right direction there. What I need is 1 of the screws for the rear seat passenger arm rest. I've lost one of them.
 
RangeRoller dt said:
You should’ve seen my Indy’s face :eek::p:D

“I’m fully booked for a long time!:mad:”

...’need my car MOTd’....

“Can’t do:oops:. What car?”

...‘The P38’...

“The RangeRover? :confused:o_O:confused:o_O:confused:
Oh :), let’s get you booked in soon as possible. And il sort that gearbox plug out for you”
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Everywhere the missus goes people comment on the Range Rover and drool over it.
 
The upper tailgate lock decided not to work. Had a look , took out two screws, then realised it is going to be a bigger job than two screws to get the damn trim off.
Which leads to 'hhheeeelllpppp!'. I can't get to my RAVE CD at,the moment, and no space on tablet to download. Could some kind soul, show me a step by step , How To, on removing the trim, please.
If I can do it without too much hassle, it would be a lot simpler than trying to get her booked in to a garage.
Thanks in advance :)
 
gold rover said:
The upper tailgate lock decided not to work. Had a look , took out two screws, then realised it is going to be a bigger job than two screws to get the damn trim off.
Which leads to 'hhheeeelllpppp!'. I can't get to my RAVE CD at,the moment, and no space on tablet to download. Could some kind soul, show me a step by step , How To, on removing the trim, please.
If I can do it without too much hassle, it would be a lot simpler than trying to get her booked in to a garage.
Thanks in advance :)
Click to expand...
this any good?

https://workshop-manuals.com/landrover/l322-b/doors/repairs/trim_finisher_tailgate_upper/
 
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