What did you do with your Range Rover today

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Enthusiastman said:
Well done mate, always good practice to change the lot at same time as makes things a lot easier. Did you use copper great on the slider pins and pad seats??
Click to expand...

Rubberknees said:
They came provided with a sachet of grease in each kit
Click to expand...

Can't remember where I saw it - on here somewhere probably - copper grease not the best thing to use on brake components.
 
frog hopper said:
Can't remember where I saw it - on here somewhere probably - copper grease not the best thing to use on brake components.
Click to expand...
Its ok if used liberally. Its been around for years too. I have a tin of the stuff BUT ive recently bought a tube of the silicoon variant which is supposed to be much better. Ive used it quite a few times now and all seems well. Its white in colour. Bit like a tube of toothpaste really. Now watch someone use their Oral B on their brakes now. LOL
 
Enthusiastman said:
Its ok if used liberally. Its been around for years too. I have a tin of the stuff BUT ive recently bought a tube of the silicoon variant which is supposed to be much better. Ive used it quite a few times now and all seems well. Its white in colour. Bit like a tube of toothpaste really. Now watch someone use their Oral B on their brakes now. LOL
Click to expand...
My bike brake kits came with red rubber grease - works a treat on the slider pins / boots. Big trick I have always found is to really deep clean the back of the brake and dust seal grooves. Usual problem with bikes is the fluid seeps / traps behind the seal a bit, dries and pushes the seal onto the piston. Then heavy brake, less pull back, drag and issues. Everything out, clean out the grooves, polish pistons, all back together sweet and smooth and easy light brakes again. Should be the same on a car but the dust seals on car brakes seem to be much better and more effective than bike ones.
 
Scotiawhiskers said:
My bike brake kits came with red rubber grease - works a treat on the slider pins / boots. Big trick I have always found is to really deep clean the back of the brake and dust seal grooves. Usual problem with bikes is the fluid seeps / traps behind the seal a bit, dries and pushes the seal onto the piston. Then heavy brake, less pull back, drag and issues. Everything out, clean out the grooves, polish pistons, all back together sweet and smooth and easy light brakes again. Should be the same on a car but the dust seals on car brakes seem to be much better and more effective than bike ones.
Click to expand...
Red rubber grease is definitely a bikers trick. Ideal though, works on pistons too
 
Today my brother and I changed the water pump on the 99 P38. Actually he did most of the work. Hardest part is getting the fan off. Had to pound on the fan clutch wrench with a hammer. I started hearing a rattle under the hood and first thought it was the AC compressor but on closer inspection we found the fan could be wobbled a bit. Turns out the fan wobbling was periodically contacting the screw head of the hose clamp on the radiator hose that goes to the engine. An unintended warning system
 
Scotiawhiskers said:
My bike brake kits came with red rubber grease - works a treat on the slider pins / boots. Big trick I have always found is to really deep clean the back of the brake and dust seal grooves. Usual problem with bikes is the fluid seeps / traps behind the seal a bit, dries and pushes the seal onto the piston. Then heavy brake, less pull back, drag and issues. Everything out, clean out the grooves, polish pistons, all back together sweet and smooth and easy light brakes again. Should be the same on a car but the dust seals on car brakes seem to be much better and more effective than bike ones.
Click to expand...
Its all good practice buddy and ensures all is fine. Far too many lazy gits these days and garages who just do the bare minimum and then wonder why they get issues afterwards still. Do it once and do it right i say. LOL
 
Gord Wedman said:
Today my brother and I changed the water pump on the 99 P38. Actually he did most of the work. Hardest part is getting the fan off. Had to pound on the fan clutch wrench with a hammer. I started hearing a rattle under the hood and first thought it was the AC compressor but on closer inspection we found the fan could be wobbled a bit. Turns out the fan wobbling was periodically contacting the screw head of the hose clamp on the radiator hose that goes to the engine. An unintended warning system
Click to expand...
But a great early warning sign for you as you caught it just in time by sounds of things.
 
Parts are here but slight mistake. Don’t think FTC4108 is the filler plug for R380 it’s tiny! Any ideas?
66DCA732-30EA-4BFE-9972-F32473D4A66C.jpeg


Previous MOT advisory of small oil leak was sump plug (wait til you see the state of the original I put back in :eek::p), ultimax pads look very beefy worth the extra couple of quid, BP lift pump to put through its paces we will see what these aren’t capable of, and some sort of tiny plug? o_O
 
RangeRoller dt said:
Parts are here but slight mistake. Don’t think FTC4108 is the filler plug for R380 it’s tiny! Any ideas? View attachment 240130

Previous MOT advisory of small oil leak was sump plug (wait til you see the state of the original I put back in :eek::p), ultimax pads look very beefy worth the extra couple of quid, BP lift pump to put through its paces we will see what these aren’t capable of, and some sort of tiny plug? o_O
Click to expand...

Looks like the filler plug, although hard to guage the scale. Drain plug is the big bugger with 6 sides.
 
Ordered 2 new tyres for front today. Noticed a cut on side wall this morning on passenger side, its as though some one has tried to put a screwdriver or thin knife into it. They would need changing for MOT in September anyway. PLUS the big thing going up A1 to Corbridge next week and didn't fancy having it let go tootling along at 70mph.
Oh they are Bridgestone Duelers for anyone whos interested. Always had decent usage out of them and a nice ride
 
well that was a first!
got in, foot on brake (habit from other car) started engine. brake pedal gave a fair kick *gerroff me* and fuel gauge went across to FULL, yet theres less than 5 gallons in the tank and the warning light should have been on.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

A
Range Rover L322 - not turning over
Replies
12
Views
1K
gold rover
gold rover
B
L320 range rover sport 3.0 tdv6 loosing power steering fluid
Replies
3
Views
494
Mark Piercy
Mark Piercy
F
1980 Range Rover 2 door v8 to 300tdi
2
Replies
20
Views
1K
Grrrrrr
Grrrrrr
T
Non start
Replies
3
Views
712
Datatek
Datatek
T
Fan Clutch??
Replies
14
Views
790
Grrrrrr
Grrrrrr
Back
Top