P38A What’s an EAS?

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    Votes: 13 54.2%
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We now can have snow in late April and sun in November. Trump says hel sort it out, build a wall to keep the nice weather in :D

If it was you who cut the blue pipe from compressor to valve block weep. When you find out how much they cost, you may realise keeping it whole and putting it on Ebay may have been a better option. :D:D

You can see the difference in approach I had before you lot took me in compared to now :D proof that a dedicated idiot can fix a RR with LandyZone
if someone needed something I don’t require I would let it go to good use. My vehicle will pass it’s MOT suspension wise on coils for years giving me time to worry about the other stuff and another P38 may keep rolling from the leftovers. I had help so it’s only fair I help back.

There is only one other P38 in my area that knows Paul - A green DSE down the road that used to look in better condition than mine last Oct - it’s in his probably.
Now I got the smart one and his is the dog, it’s only matter of time til he knocks my door asking if I want to buy it for spares is my guess?
 
I took the two solenoids on the bottom off first so it can sit better to work on. The pressure switch had green loctite (RAVE states loctite 572 @ 17proper torques or 23nm) on it but the relief valve next to it came off easy enough was only ptfe tape. Covers for solenoids are just two screws each. The way the holes align with different screws means it will be hard to get it wrong on reassembly with the unit as a whole, not that I’m concerned :):D I’m dubious as to whether someone has been in here before...
25E3509A-3370-4A4B-9FED-CE215E66F11C.jpeg

The solenoids and *EDIT - ‘plastic caps containing the coil’ seem to be original but colour coded, the colours don’t seem to match up in any order?
A0D29E6F-A75D-432B-A265-416442DD5E99.jpeg

If you look there are two different types of screw, the larger rounded ones hold the solenoids in, the diagonally opposing smaller 2 hold the mechanism together. If you take the wrong ones out it’s no biggy, they appear to be just spacers and will only fit back one way ;)
The left (above pic) has the top o-ring fitted the right has not.

There are 2 more o-rings underneath each
4C53ACA1-2ED2-486F-8540-6F9D76A2390C.jpeg

They sit like this, you shouldn’t get mixed up as they only marry up to the solenoid on the one hole underneath -
A61A7745-0724-4986-A35F-0B7B46E66A10.jpeg
 
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I took the two solenoids on the bottom off first so it can sit better to work on. The pressure switch had green loctite (RAVE states loctite 572 @ 17proper torques or 23nm) on it but the relief valve next to it came off easy enough was only ptfe tape. Covers for solenoids are just two screws each. The way the holes align with different screws means it will be hard to get it wrong on reassembly with the unit as a whole, not that I’m concerned :):D I’m dubious as to whether someone has been in here before...
View attachment 179070
The solenoids and contacts seem to be original but colour coded, the colours don’t seem to match up in any order?View attachment 179071
If you look there are two different types of screw, the larger rounded ones hold the solenoids in, the diagonally opposing smaller 2 hold the mechanism together. If you take the wrong ones out it’s no biggy, they appear to be just spacers and will only fit back one way ;)
The left (above pic) has the top o-ring fitted the right has not.

There are 2 more o-rings underneath eachView attachment 179077
They sit like this, you shouldn’t get mixed up as they only marry up to the solenoid on the one hole underneath -View attachment 179078
Contacts? what contacts???
 
???
Contacts? what contacts???
The electrical contacts in the case that supply the voltage - ***These are not called contacts in the cover! I made a mistake. They are referred to as “solenoid covers - stc2761” some people believe reference as contacts would result in danger. They have their own voting option
9A25F024-A864-4A4B-8DC7-02BF0CA29F1F.jpeg


Any idea what the orange/green/purple dots on the tops and inner casings are for?
 
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Good thing I numbered them then.

On your numbered photo in post #8 1 is exhaust valve. 2 is inlet valve. 3 is FR. 4 is RL. 5 is diaphragm solenoid. 6 is FL. 7 is RR. 3, 4 ,6, 7 are all the same valve type and can be interchanged but the coils MUST be fitted in the correct place. 1 and 2 are the same valve type, but not the same as 3,4,6,7 coils must not be swapped. Diaphragm solenoid can only be fitted in one position.
 
I found the easiest way to stop them getting mixed up or damaging rings was to pop them in the relevant cap as you go
181CCFDF-DBAA-4620-BF99-7CDFE9FDD8A8.jpeg


The diaphragm solenoid (I labelled 5) is the one smaller than the rest. The workshop manual I use states this unit is ‘non serviceable’. To me that means they are hiding something :D....

This is the only one on this unit that has the square-ring (square o-ring):rolleyes: fitted and blue loctite on threads holding solenoid down. The rings have done a good job keeping the oil out :)
5CC10003-6EB6-4D82-9EB3-D4EBB60DDEE4.jpeg

Gentleness and the correct size (p1/p2) bits help as any ‘unscrewing in anger’ leaves tiny bits of metal residue in the thread chambers.
They should be blanked up as you go by right, but then how do you get the crap out if it’s plugged - make your mind up :p

Diaphragm unit doesn’t have top ring but there is 2 underneath covered in metallic looking ‘dust’.
672DFE58-B377-453C-81F6-4ABF256328B9.jpeg
DE2C7A58-00A3-456E-BCB4-5168938547C1.jpeg
 
If you take the diaphragm block off (4allen bolts) there is an o-ring in there, be gentle taking it off - there is a small spring in there - if you do it slowly it won’t shoot into orbit ;)
FEAF473A-ED94-49C6-930A-4427AFF0DD7B.jpeg
ECE99063-F2C3-44FC-BC34-5023C7AD9543.jpeg


Ask me how I know ... lol
 
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This all brings back memories of which I wish to forget:eek::)

Wish I had seen pics when I did mine 8-10years ago.

While I am here I am going to ask.
I have see it mentioned but can’t find it again, the reason for the front “nodding “ in stop go traffic.

I noticed the OF started doing it when in the UK last. But don’t really notice it here as we don’t get that sort of traffic, I just know it’s going to need sorting sooner rather than later.
Cheers

J
 
This all brings back memories of which I wish to forget:eek::)

Wish I had seen pics when I did mine 8-10years ago.

While I am here I am going to ask.
I have see it mentioned but can’t find it again, the reason for the front “nodding “ in stop go traffic.

I noticed the OF started doing it when in the UK last. But don’t really notice it here as we don’t get that sort of traffic, I just know it’s going to need sorting sooner rather than later.
Cheers

J

It equalises across the axle when it comes to a stop. If the height sensors are further apart than expected it can get a bit mixed up and dance a little. Other possibilities include dodgy connection, loose height sensor, etc. etc.
 
Thanks @Grrrrrr

I remember something like that.
As I have no reason to believe any of the system has been touched from new (65000m and a bit 2001)
I will look at connections, but possibly the front sensors starting to show wear to give odd readings.

It’s just something else to look at when I get time. Maybe need to find my leads and dust off the RSW software:)

J
 
This all brings back memories of which I wish to forget:eek::)

Wish I had seen pics when I did mine 8-10years ago.

While I am here I am going to ask.
I have see it mentioned but can’t find it again, the reason for the front “nodding “ in stop go traffic.

I noticed the OF started doing it when in the UK last. But don’t really notice it here as we don’t get that sort of traffic, I just know it’s going to need sorting sooner rather than later.
Cheers

J

Pressure imbalance across the front axle.
 
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