well needed restoration of my series 2a

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thanks,

I'm rebuilding to keep and use daily as a wrk horse, not make completely original, so would prob do galv chassis, recon galv bulk head, new loom and buy and replace starter motor, wiper motor, suspension, brakes etc. The only thing i would re-build from scratch would be the engine and gearbox so I no from the ground up its gonna run sweet. As for body panels i don't think i'd re spray, its used in the woods driving through brambles and bushes so don't see the point.

thanks for the pointers though, and the inspiration.

M
 
Just spent the last hour reading through this- what a great restoration and "how to" guide. I've been thinking about restoring a Series II for a while and this has just made my mind up! Just need to find one.
 
cheers everyone, thers lots of series 2 about if you look hard enough, if you intend on a full restoration with no expense spared dont buy a runner off ebay for £1100, rebuild the engine and gear box and put it on a galv chassis, go for a £450 farm sale special like i did , then its worth doing properly, as long as its 90% complete yer wont go wrong for a cheap starter project
 
to get rid of play, take a shim or 2 out. there should be a bit of resistiance but smooth. im sure someone will come along or PM you with the right figures as your supposed to do it with a newton meter but i just do it by feel.
 
thers a few pics on page 20 of this thread on how to set them up, the readings for the spring balance or newton mtr are in the haynes or other manuals with tech info in. as above remove or add shims to set tight or slacken the aloud movement, you might find after 100 miles after a rebuild it will need re adjusting, but not always
 
discomikey said:
TC, any more progress, ive been following it since i can remember on t'other side.
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nothing more since the last pics posted on ere, been busy with work etc, will get a few more bits collected on me travels and have another few days solid on it soon i hope, only a matter of the steering needs droppin in, clutch and brake pipes need makin up , then its down to quite a bit of spraying and wiring then its close to ready :)

had small set back last week, moved it on to the road wile i shifted a new wooden building down the back of the workshop, straps must have come loose holding the cover over the front end and the winds dragged the hook of the strap over the bonet, so needs stripping and respraying , ah well, one of them things :rolleyes::mad:

needs finishing really, or will start looking sad, dont want the scrappy nockin the door quite yet
 
90truckcab said:
nothing more since the last pics posted on ere, been busy with work etc, will get a few more bits collected on me travels and have another few days solid on it soon i hope, only a matter of the steering needs droppin in, clutch and brake pipes need makin up , then its down to quite a bit of spraying and wiring then its close to ready :)

had small set back last week, moved it on to the road wile i shifted a new wooden building down the back of the workshop, straps must have come loose holding the cover over the front end and the winds dragged the hook of the strap over the bonet, so needs stripping and respraying , ah well, one of them things :rolleyes::mad:

needs finishing really, or will start looking sad, dont want the scrappy nockin the door quite yet
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Just get the fooker finished before i drop down dead yer fooker you:D:D:p
 
hey fella ive noticed a bag of wicks block paving sand in one of your piccies (think its on page 36 ish) do you use that in your sandblasting cabinet and if so is it any good ???
 
johnny curt 1 said:
hey fella ive noticed a bag of wicks block paving sand in one of your piccies (think its on page 36 ish) do you use that in your sandblasting cabinet and if so is it any good ???
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well spotted , yes, but at the time i was using that reusable aluminium oxide from machine mart , grey stuff, in posh buckets for lotsa money, was good the first time it was used, but on re use it become so weak it was useless. was ok for polishing ally and brass etc, no good fer paint stripping and rust, then i got some block paving sand, or kiln dried silver sand, what ever yer wanna call it, i put a few scoops in a tray and put it by the fire, it works well, 25kg for £3, cant go wrong, building sand wont do at all, so im stickin to the block pave sand, as long as its dry , it sticks together with the smallist amount of damp in the air so just keep it nice and dry and its fine.
 
90truckcab said:
well spotted , yes, but at the time i was using that reusable aluminium oxide from machine mart , grey stuff, in posh buckets for lotsa money, was good the first time it was used, but on re use it become so weak it was useless. was ok for polishing ally and brass etc, no good fer paint stripping and rust, then i got some block paving sand, or kiln dried silver sand, what ever yer wanna call it, i put a few scoops in a tray and put it by the fire, it works well, 25kg for £3, cant go wrong, building sand wont do at all, so im stickin to the block pave sand, as long as its dry , it sticks together with the smallist amount of damp in the air so just keep it nice and dry and its fine.
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i was just going to mention that as its what i use in the spot blaster but i put it in the oven or on top of me oil burning stove thingy in a big pan before i use it works like fook when its hot :D:D:D:D
 
As with quite a few others I have just read the entire thread; quite excellent and well done. I finished rebuilding my 1973 SWB back in 1995 on a new galvanised chassis, which was the way to go. I still have the land rover and have had to do very little on it over the years although I religiously keep it clean and hammerited underneath. As with you I found the angle grinder wire brushes invaluable although vicious at times if you didn't concentrate. I am just about to hand the keys of it over to my son for him to have! He has pestered me about it for the last few years and it's now time.

Keep up the good work.
 
Nigel Moreland said:
As with quite a few others I have just read the entire thread; quite excellent and well done. I finished rebuilding my 1973 SWB back in 1995 on a new galvanised chassis, which was the way to go. I still have the land rover and have had to do very little on it over the years although I religiously keep it clean and hammerited underneath. As with you I found the angle grinder wire brushes invaluable although vicious at times if you didn't concentrate. I am just about to hand the keys of it over to my son for him to have! He has pestered me about it for the last few years and it's now time.

Keep up the good work.
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Nice story but.....:nopics:, would love to see it.
 
on account of its unavalability , after 3 hrs of removing the old brake unions from the 5 way , it was quickly blasted with the gun, re tapped the threads and a new switch fitted then was fixed to chassis with an 8mm bolt tapped in to outrigger / engine mount

DSC00628.jpg


both fully referb'd pedal boxs now fitted with new cylinders etc,

DSC00632.jpg


handbrake

DSC00631.jpg


all the copper pipe work made up in me workshop then fitted betwee rain showers

DSC00515.jpg


DSC00633.jpg


DSC00630.jpg


DSC00629.jpg


steering relay fitted

DSC00637.jpg


just a matter if droppin the props on this weekend and its ready for a quick drive before the body goes back on ,
 
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