Welcoming a new addition to the fleet

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Been a little bit productive today but mostly destructive :D

So thought I'd fit the X brake......how hard can that be?...........As it turns out extremely hard :mad:


So first things first, remove the prop shaft to gain access to the handbrake drum and drive flange bolts.

Diff flange end....no issues.....transfer box end? Well.....first off one of the bolts was missing! Great success :D but after that, all three remaining nuts were not 9/16th's as they should be. They were the right thread but oversized nuts meaning without the correct crows foot spanner I couldn't take them off :mad: the prop wouldn't give enough clearance for the socket set of my spanners to get on there even with some gentle hammer persuasion.

So I thought I'd kill two birds with one stone and swap the prop to a new rear one which I had and started to take the UJ apart so I could remove the long half.

Not so fast dick head.....I'm not done ****ing you off yet. To wit! The bastarding UJ top pieces were seized into the flange and this is after I managed to pry out the snapped circlips :mad: so I tried to prize off the rubber seals and get a chisel in there, easy enough to break off the perished rubber but the UJ then proceeded to put up a great fight against the big hammer. Finally releasing one side and all its needle rollers!

Got the hand brake back plate off after this and after a bit of knocking with a hammer I realised the hand brake adjuster was a screw pin not just a split pin through a hole type! :mad:

After this the rest was just as annoying, took the 1" nut off the back to release the drive flange and oil started pouring down my arm. This was followed by a huge struggle to get the new backing plate back on after swapping the bolts over to the new M8 ones that came with the X brake!

Finally managed to drift the new backing plate and drive flange back on then began tightening the lot......so far so good then!


Gonna fit the calliper tomorrow and finish tightening up the disc. Hopefully I wont need to take anything back off!
Then I suppose a litre of oil needs to go back into the transfer box as well as the OD and gearbox as they probably want topping up judging by case conditions :rolleyes:


Oh and to top it off it turns out the exhaust is only partly together where the Y joins the tailpipe. Might explain the popping when I come off throttle



All of this took four hours :mad:
 
Considering I was soaked in EP90 :rolleyes:


NO!



And I knows :D I'm gonna start dismantling the exhaust tomorrow, not gonna bother fitting the new one til I get gaskets but will do an oil change while I'm at it and change the sump gasket I think :)
 
And I knows :D I'm gonna start dismantling the exhaust tomorrow, not gonna bother fitting the new one til I get gaskets but will do an oil change while I'm at it and change the sump gasket I think :)

Good! :D

I want to see that sump off, cleaned inside and out... I want it spotless and then a nice coat of paint for it to go back on. That is, if it hasn't been done already and isn't covered in old oil and road crap and dirt and oh boy mine is filthy.... :eek:
 
Good! :D

I want to see that sump off, cleaned inside and out... I want it spotless and then a nice coat of paint for it to go back on. That is, if it hasn't been done already and isn't covered in old oil and road crap and dirt and oh boy mine is filthy.... :eek:

I cba :p clean cars do my head in!

Best it may get is a blast from the steam cleaner once its off just to get rid of the left over gasket
 
I cba :p clean cars do my head in!

Best it may get is a blast from the steam cleaner once its off just to get rid of the left over gasket

I had to breathe in and out then before posting. You're a bad person and you should feel bad! Just look at the timing cover pics on my thread in V8 section. All nice and shiny and Ooo yeah... :cool: :D

If you're changing the gasket then it might be worth cleaning the inside out just in case there's anything nasty in the bottom. Although there shouldn't be after only 1000 miles after a rebuild.

The gasket surface is supposed to be perfect! Eat your dinner off it clean! Otherwise the oil gets through... :rolleyes:
 
I had to breathe in and out then before posting. You're a bad person and you should feel bad! Just look at the timing cover pics on my thread in V8 section. All nice and shiny and Ooo yeah... :cool: :D

If you're changing the gasket then it might be worth cleaning the inside out just in case there's anything nasty in the bottom. Although there shouldn't be after only 1000 miles after a rebuild.

The gasket surface is supposed to be perfect! Eat your dinner off it clean! Otherwise the oil gets through... :rolleyes:

Thats why hylomar was invented :p put a smear of it on either side of the gasket and job done ;)

I don't like clean stuff, prefer the used look!

Its why the series wont be getting a new coat of paints for a long time
 
There's a difference between something looking good because it can and something that SHOULD be clean and nice.

I found bits of grit and remains of the nylon gears in my old engine in the sump... :eek:
 
Well this happened :rolleyes:



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Just a temporary measure until the new exhaust is finished and ready to bolt on........currently making the down pipe flanges. Want to be able to bolt it on in one go (or thats the idea)


Managed to refill the transfer box with EP90 even with the modified seat box! (flap has been bolted down so I cant access the plugs :doh:
Squirty lucozade bottle was the ticket though :) took out the filler plug, stuck the bottle down the hole and put in a litre and a half of the gold stuff :D


After this I wanted to change the oil as it'd been in the engine for just over 1000 miles since rebuild so was due a change for some nice high quality Miller 20w50 semi synthetic but thats when the thunder and lightning started :eek: called it a day and ran back inside!











Oh got this fitted too and it works :D




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