Waxoyl?

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wildey87

wildey87

Member
Posts
76
Location
SW London
Hey chaps

Waxoyl treatment...worth it or not?

I've been looking to do it but the places that offer the service are quite expensive.

However, to do it yourself looks like quite a nause and needs a fair bit of kit. Do you guys think it's worth undertaking given i do no green laning as yet and use the landy for ferrying kit around most of the time.
 
I think its definitely worth doing one way or another.
Its not necessarily greenlaning that'll make a chassis not last, salt spray off the road is just as bad as caked on mud and cow ****!
If the chassis is sound I'd give it a very good pressure wash off (you can hire powerful ones) and then go to town on it! I'd do it yourself, a small compressor can be had for £50 and it will always come in handy.
I'm doing the bulkhead and doors on mine soon, got a galvy chassis now as the previous 3 owners obviously hadn't waxed or cleaned it!!

Good luck.mate, and don't be put off doing it yourself, you've got the kit for next time and you'll save yourself hundreds!!
 
Rust protection of any kind is worth doing. As long as its done correctly. Preparation is probably more important than application and different products can be applied in different ways. Opinions on here vary in what is the best product to use, so I would advise doing a search and seeing what you think is within your budget, capability, facility, equipment etc etc.
 
Nice. I just need to find somewhere to do it as mine is only ever parked up on the street and not sure the council would be pleased!

I may have to coerce the parents into letting me use their drive!

Equipment wise (after the pressure wash) i assume its mainly the compressor, waxoyl itself, and a big old tarp to save your drive. Do you need axle stands to get enough space under there to do it or just climb under and accept you're going to be covered....?
 
If you do any off-roading or even green laning then it's a fair bet that you'll be hosing down the underside of your vehicle pretty regularly, but if you aren't then you're going to get a steady build up of road crud including road salt which is going to really eat away anything which isn't protected, unless you wash it all off regularly.
So, now ask yourself the question again.
As to what to use, many members will tell you that Dinitrol is better than Waxoyl. There is another underside protection with a German sounding name which I can't remember right now, but somebody will, I'm sure.
A wax type treatment such as those above is preferable to Schutz type underseal.
Preparation is everything; make sure that the underside of the vehicle has been properly cleaned, preferably with steam and any damage repaired before anything is applied.
As for the cost, 450 quid is about right for the materials and labour, the materials alone will cost something like 150 quid for enough of everything (Dinitrol products) to do it yourself.
Edit.
You should try to get the vehicle as high as you can safely to give yourself some working space. Complete cover overalls with a hood is preferred and eye protection is essential. Give yourself plenty of time out from under the vehicle, the fumes can get to you!
 
IMHO, don't use waxoyl - use either bilt hamber, or dinitrol - MUCH better product and much better value. :)

remember - chassis rot starts inside :( - IMHO outside is more or less irrelevant - you'll make it luck pretty, possibly fool the MOT man ...... and then it'll fall to bits:rolleyes:

Do a search on here - topic has been done to death really... :)
 
Chassis rust starts from the inside.....very very true. Wax will lay relatively innafectively over oxidisation and quite quickly lift of the surface as the corosion becomes friable (de-laminating plates of oxide) and moisture enters behind the wax and the oxidising quickly excellerates (the dreaded rot). Duck Oil (marketed by Swarfega) is exelent at displacing moisture and passivating the steel surface and will keep mobile and working for 12 months ( although I spray over the entire underside of my D2 every 6 months and this keeps the surfaces constantly oil wetted), any loose and failing products will be bypassed by the incredibly penetrative property of the Duck Oil and it will nullify any corrosion processes under those products. Internal chassis surfaces are even more important to protect..getting Duck Oil onto the the entire chassis internal surfaces can be guaranteed with a Chassis Wand (on eBay).. I've been doing this for years and my chassis and cills are like new....and that's on a Discovery2 !!!
 
wildey87 said:
Hey chaps

Waxoyl treatment...worth it or not?

I've been looking to do it but the places that offer the service are quite expensive.

However, to do it yourself looks like quite a nause and needs a fair bit of kit. Do you guys think it's worth undertaking given i do no green laning as yet and use the landy for ferrying kit around most of the time.
Click to expand...

dont know if this link may help some

http://www.rust.co.uk/
 
All my research says oil based is the way to go on old metal with existing corrosion. As mentioned above wax based will lock the corrosion in. I use ACF50 (marine version) on the underside of my Porsche 928. When I find a defender I'll use it on that too. Its easy to apply with a spray gun.
 
meego said:
Rust protection of any kind is worth doing. As long as its done correctly. Preparation is probably more important than application and different products can be applied in different ways. Opinions on here vary in what is the best product to use, so I would advise doing a search and seeing what you think is within your budget, capability, facility, equipment etc etc.
Click to expand...

Spot on. I had mine Dinitrol'd as it's a better and more long-lasting product than Waxoyl. It wasn't cheap, but I wanted it done properly and didn't want the mess. Money well spent in my book, and way cheaper than replacing the chassis.
 
You would need to get the ACF50 deep into the chassis beams and internal voids and guarentee full coverage to be effective. I've not tried ACF50 (as I haven't found anything better than light oil ..I'll certainly check it out though) but a Chassis Wand will get deep in there (and cills, pillars...etc) and spray coat all surfaces regardless of the voids complexity.
 
Mr S1 said:
Spot on. I had mine Dinitrol'd as it's a better and more long-lasting product than Waxoyl. It wasn't cheap, but I wanted it done properly and didn't want the mess. Money well spent in my book, and way cheaper than replacing the chassis.
Click to expand...

going to do mine with dinotrol

as there's only a slight surface rust think it's an ideal time to do it

see there are different products , starting with the rust convertor then going through the products to the final finish

chassis is sound , just needs a light wire brushing to give it a key ,

going to invest in a compressor so can spray the chassis and get a lance to inject inside

got a karcher and steamer so will clean the inside first ,

will spend a lot of time to ensure everything is clean, any loose bits of paint removed as i also understand if i take a lot of time making sure it's prepared correctly

have u ever heard of this company , is very local to me

http://www.paints4trade.com/flag-rust-converter-257335-p.asp

may i ask was it a local company that done urs, i intend to do it myself , due to the cost
 
With only 'slight surface rust' and very undisturbed original surfaces this sounds ideal as you won't be trapping corrosion. I was advised that it takes at least four+ days of dry weather driving to dry the chassis internals out thoroughly. Hope the job goes well...
 
wildey87 said:
Nice. I just need to find somewhere to do it as mine is only ever parked up on the street and not sure the council would be pleased!

I may have to coerce the parents into letting me use their drive!

Equipment wise (after the pressure wash) i assume its mainly the compressor, waxoyl itself, and a big old tarp to save your drive. Do you need axle stands to get enough space under there to do it or just climb under and accept you're going to be covered....?
Click to expand...


Park it on a big tarp to catch the drips. :)
 
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