Wading, paddling, swimming, sinking

ruplaw · Dec 21, 2020

Hi Folks,

Can we talk wading? Looking for some advice.

I believe the raised intake / snorkel is not the whole story when it comes to expecting a happy outcome whilst submerging our vehicles up to the rated depth. Is it right to say that the raised intake pipework to the air filter may not necessarily be watertight, without modification? Also would I be correct in understanding that other work may be needed prior to wading successfully, such as blanking off various breather holes and / or sealing any electrical components under the bonnet? Do door seals generally keep water out?

Thanks for any top tips.

2010 Discovery 4 TDV6.

Nodge68 · Dec 21, 2020

A D4 air intake will be fine at rated depth, without raising the intake. However wading isn't good for the vehicle, or recommend.

Pawl · Dec 21, 2020

Most Land Rovers have numerous entry points for water if you're wading.
Using a raised air intake successfully to protect the engine must involve checking all joints / seals back to the air filter & typically also checking how the bottom of the air filter box allows excess water out. Often there is a vent which only works as a seal againt water ingress when the rubber is brand new / flexible.
Door seals vary - some deliberately have slots cut in them at the bottom to let water out - but which will also let water in. I don't know what the D4 door seals look like, but on D2, some have slots and some don't.

Another water ingress area is often the gear lever area - often it's only sealed for sound deadening purposes, not to prevent water ingress as the "official" wading depth is below the height of the gear lever.

A final "beware" point is the boot - where typically there are one way air vents to allow air from the cabin ventilation system to escape.
Usually they're in 1 or both of the rear wings - behind the rear wheel arches. In theory they're designed as rubber flaps which open due to air flow & shut (but don't fully seal !) if water pressure is higher on the outside. Again from experience on my D2 & Range Rover, these rubber flaps often "curl" with age & then don't seal - so it doesn't matter how good your rear door or tailgate seals are, the boot fills up with water if the depth is higher than the air vents.

My view is that although it's great fun to play in water, I'll only go in near the wading depth if I really have to cross an obstacle - as It does huge amounts of long term damage to the car.
If it's silty / muddy, you can also guarantee lots will settle in the chassis rails (or equivalent on a monocoque) & start the process of rotting from the inside out.
You have to decide if you're worried about the long term effect on the car's value or how fast it will rust out.

Nodge68 · Dec 21, 2020

As above. Additionally the suspension compressor is well below the MAX wading depth, and those are fragile enough without being submerged under water. The ride height sensors are also at risk from water ingres, as are the wheel bearings, ball joints, parking brake module and engine components like the timing belt and alternator.

The D4 is heavily reliant on electronic systems, which doesn't mix with water, so if it were mine, I'd avoid going through water deeper than the centre of the wheels, as there's too many rubber joints in cables and the like to leak, once they get old.

ruplaw · Dec 21, 2020

Pawl said:
Most Land Rovers have numerous entry points for water if you're wading.
Using a raised air intake successfully to protect the engine must involve checking all joints / seals back to the air filter & typically also checking how the bottom of the air filter box allows excess water out. Often there is a vent which only works as a seal againt water ingress when the rubber is brand new / flexible.
Door seals vary - some deliberately have slots cut in them at the bottom to let water out - but which will also let water in. I don't know what the D4 door seals look like, but on D2, some have slots and some don't.

Another water ingress area is often the gear lever area - often it's only sealed for sound deadening purposes, not to prevent water ingress as the "official" wading depth is below the height of the gear lever.

A final "beware" point is the boot - where typically there are one way air vents to allow air from the cabin ventilation system to escape.
Usually they're in 1 or both of the rear wings - behind the rear wheel arches. In theory they're designed as rubber flaps which open due to air flow & shut (but don't fully seal !) if water pressure is higher on the outside. Again from experience on my D2 & Range Rover, these rubber flaps often "curl" with age & then don't seal - so it doesn't matter how good your rear door or tailgate seals are, the boot fills up with water if the depth is higher than the air vents.

My view is that although it's great fun to play in water, I'll only go in near the wading depth if I really have to cross an obstacle - as It does huge amounts of long term damage to the car.
If it's silty / muddy, you can also guarantee lots will settle in the chassis rails (or equivalent on a monocoque) & start the process of rotting from the inside out.
You have to decide if you're worried about the long term effect on the car's value or how fast it will rust out.

ruplaw · Dec 21, 2020

Thanks for the replies, very informative.

Wading, paddling, swimming, sinking

ruplaw

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Nodge68

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Pawl

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Nodge68

Well-Known Member

ruplaw

Member

ruplaw

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