holidaychicken
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Blimey what a waste, you could get the L322 sorted and to stop tapping for no more than £80K, well until next year at least.....
L322 V8 tap tap tap
- Thread starter Hamster97
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Hamster97
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Next year? That's a bit ambitious mate 
holidaychicken
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Oh yeah you are right I forgot it was only January
Hamster97
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Quick update but nothing really to report. Had Derby 4x4 listen to the engine where opinions went from everything from bottom end to a lifter including everything in between. Booked in for a more thorough check over next Wednesday but here's the kicker.
A mate of mine who is very friendly with DLS in Wirksworth spoke to them for me and they said they wouldn't touch it because there are so many causes for a tapping M62 engine that they could try and fix it but it might become uneconomical to repair trying the many different things that could cause it. They advised that I visit a BMW specialist who would be better experienced to do the job so now it's booked in for next Friday at a local BMW indy.
Lastly, Derby 4x4 told me up front that they would have to charge me extra labour because my car has a gas conversion, apparently they say they would have to remove part of the conversion to get the coils out........ bollocks, I did it myself 2 weeks ago without touching the gas, I mentioned this and was told they would only charge labour for as long as the job took but not to worry although when they said that they planted a seed of doubt straight away that they were going to have my pants down.
Should I get the lube out or cancel the appointment?
A mate of mine who is very friendly with DLS in Wirksworth spoke to them for me and they said they wouldn't touch it because there are so many causes for a tapping M62 engine that they could try and fix it but it might become uneconomical to repair trying the many different things that could cause it. They advised that I visit a BMW specialist who would be better experienced to do the job so now it's booked in for next Friday at a local BMW indy.
Lastly, Derby 4x4 told me up front that they would have to charge me extra labour because my car has a gas conversion, apparently they say they would have to remove part of the conversion to get the coils out........ bollocks, I did it myself 2 weeks ago without touching the gas, I mentioned this and was told they would only charge labour for as long as the job took but not to worry although when they said that they planted a seed of doubt straight away that they were going to have my pants down.
Should I get the lube out or cancel the appointment?
holidaychicken
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If the lube is petroleum jelly then you could smear it on the drivers seat and just say you dropped a cigarette after being bumbed at the local garage and the fire got out of control if the insurance company asks..
I have a 6 way - wait for it - electronic stethoscope which is good at locating noises as it has a pointer that you touch on to various engine parts and listen through the headphones to locate the source of the tap, worked a treat on diagnosing my water pump
Hamster97
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I bought a stethoscope, arrived this morning so gonna give it a go. I also took another one of your pointers and bought a borescope to have a look for this damned oil leak lol.
Bit of diagnostics tomorrow I think ahead of next week's wallet emptying exercise.
Bit of diagnostics tomorrow I think ahead of next week's wallet emptying exercise.
holidaychicken
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cool, keep us posted
Hamster97
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Was on it today, found a small pipe with no home to go to, followed it up to the PCV. Had a look round and the small pipe on the metal oil return pipe had nothing on it so guessed that's where it lives so will have to see how that goes.
Rocker cover is dry so it seems I did a good job on that thank God.
The tapping is harder to trace. I put the stethoscope on the rocker cover and it can be heard loudest around where no2 inlet cam is so may be that although the noise can also be heard at the front and lower down and also through the aircon bracket so no idea on that but maybe a lifter......... fingers crossed.
Rocker cover is dry so it seems I did a good job on that thank God.
The tapping is harder to trace. I put the stethoscope on the rocker cover and it can be heard loudest around where no2 inlet cam is so may be that although the noise can also be heard at the front and lower down and also through the aircon bracket so no idea on that but maybe a lifter......... fingers crossed.
holidaychicken
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Having re read your original post regarding the change of oil i was wondering if a flush and refill would help.
have a read of the thread below as there is quite a bit of information regarding oils and tapping.
I have used a couple of bottles of the forte advanced formula flush with no ill effect before changing my oil in the past
http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/6-...2-engine-permanent-rattle-knocking-noise.html
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Forte-Adv...949591?hash=item3f5c44c1d7:g:rdsAAOSwfZ1WYDfW
have a read of the thread below as there is quite a bit of information regarding oils and tapping.
I have used a couple of bottles of the forte advanced formula flush with no ill effect before changing my oil in the past
http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/6-...2-engine-permanent-rattle-knocking-noise.html
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Forte-Adv...949591?hash=item3f5c44c1d7:g:rdsAAOSwfZ1WYDfW
Hamster97
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Thanks for that Mr HC. Hopefully now it's not losing oil at the rate of 1/2 litre every 100 miles I can run a flush and do another oil change (only been 3k since the last one although it's always got fresh oil in it due to the self drain option lol).
Got a 150 mile round trip tomorrow so I'll see about doing the flush and changing the oil while I'm out.
Don't know if I mentioned this but the tapping started after I topped up with 4 litres of Castrol GTX 15w40 semi synthetic and it's not gone away after using 5w30 to do the oil change.
Should I find some 10w40 fully synthetic for after the flush?
Got a 150 mile round trip tomorrow so I'll see about doing the flush and changing the oil while I'm out.
Don't know if I mentioned this but the tapping started after I topped up with 4 litres of Castrol GTX 15w40 semi synthetic and it's not gone away after using 5w30 to do the oil change.
Should I find some 10w40 fully synthetic for after the flush?
holidaychicken
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I read your first post about when the tapping started so I was wondering if the hydraulic lifter had an issue with the thicker oil.
Flushing can dislodge crap but mine was fine although I'm not sure if my timing chain covers leaked a bit more after, you need two bottles of the forte.
I run fully synthetic only and get on ok with shell helix ultra 5W-40 and I have read about tapping starting after running both thin 0-30 oils and thicker like you did.
I think your 150 mile trip will kill or cure, there is a bleed procedure I think we already mentioned which I'm not sure how official it is by running at 3000 rpm for a few minutes which is about 70 mph I think so it might help or your engine may self destruct but at least you will know where the problem was by which bits leave via the side of the crank case...
Tricky one still I'm afraid but all part of the 'fun'
Flushing can dislodge crap but mine was fine although I'm not sure if my timing chain covers leaked a bit more after, you need two bottles of the forte.
I run fully synthetic only and get on ok with shell helix ultra 5W-40 and I have read about tapping starting after running both thin 0-30 oils and thicker like you did.
I think your 150 mile trip will kill or cure, there is a bleed procedure I think we already mentioned which I'm not sure how official it is by running at 3000 rpm for a few minutes which is about 70 mph I think so it might help or your engine may self destruct but at least you will know where the problem was by which bits leave via the side of the crank case...
Tricky one still I'm afraid but all part of the 'fun'
holidaychicken
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It may be worth getting an opinion of the BMW Indy but also have a trail through the BMW forums under the X5 section, others have the same engine, just search the M62TU
Hamster97
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Thanks mate. Gonna go for the flush and 5w40 and see how it goes. Did the bleed procedure, 3000rpm for 3 mins up to 5 times then 3000rpm for 15 mins to finish off if the shorter attempts don't work but if it pukes it's internals all over the M6, I've located another block lol.
Thanks for your help and suggestions mate, I'll soldier on until it's done.
Thanks for your help and suggestions mate, I'll soldier on until it's done.
holidaychicken
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I think even if mine coughs it guts out i'll locate another engine because it's not my only car thankfully, i am sort of looking forward to stripping mine and doing the vanos and timing chain guides as it is just a great big puzzle for me and every time i solve a level another pops up, once i have replaced everything and worked out every last 'quirk' i'll sell it and buy another retarded vehicle if i still have any credit left.
Its a bit like the female of the species, i was very much catch and release. if you land a great white shark, what are supposed to do with it, better to throw it back in and let somebody else have a go.!
if it you want to see a lion, go to the zoo, don't bring one home it will proper feck the place up
good luck mate
Its a bit like the female of the species, i was very much catch and release. if you land a great white shark, what are supposed to do with it, better to throw it back in and let somebody else have a go.!
if it you want to see a lion, go to the zoo, don't bring one home it will proper feck the place up
good luck mate
Hamster97
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Well........... had it into the BMW indy this morning, diagnosis:
A lot of oil all over the engine but there is oil high up so start with rocker cover gaskets, clean up engine and check for leaks. Additional leaks will be extra to fix, cost for rocker cover gaskets.... £300.
Tap tap tap. Told it's top end, bank 1,more than likely a tappet. 16 tappets fitted, £1200.
Here's where it gets interesting. Found a place who'll do an exchange reconditioned engine, new lifters, timing chain, bottom end, oil pump, rings, vanos seals, FULL rebuild, fitted £2500.
Is it a no brainer just to have a new engine just because of one noisy lifter lol
A lot of oil all over the engine but there is oil high up so start with rocker cover gaskets, clean up engine and check for leaks. Additional leaks will be extra to fix, cost for rocker cover gaskets.... £300.
Tap tap tap. Told it's top end, bank 1,more than likely a tappet. 16 tappets fitted, £1200.
Here's where it gets interesting. Found a place who'll do an exchange reconditioned engine, new lifters, timing chain, bottom end, oil pump, rings, vanos seals, FULL rebuild, fitted £2500.
Is it a no brainer just to have a new engine just because of one noisy lifter lol
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The diagnosis reported above is not really a diagnosis...more like a 'we think' report...you could pay out £1500 on the gaskets and replacements tappets, and then find it is something else....which will bee more £££....
Only you can decide.......peace of mind would suggest new engine with warranty....fit and forget basically....but the pocket may determine....£1000 saved and its fixed....but then again, not!
Only you can decide.......peace of mind would suggest new engine with warranty....fit and forget basically....but the pocket may determine....£1000 saved and its fixed....but then again, not!
Hamster97
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^^^^^
THIS
This is what makes me think spending the extra £1000 isn't so bad so I think I'll treat myself to a new engine for my birthday. I hate guesswork and spending money TRYING to repair a fault, it could easily cost £2500 just to try and fix it.
It seems very cheap for a recon engine fitted, that's drive in/drive out. I phoned to double check what's included and they confirmed that they would fit a fully rebuilt engine for that price and confirmed that all the regular problem items are replaced with new, I still can't believe it.
Might as well get them to chuck a new torque converter in while the engine is out, my lock up clutch is poorly and the revs go up and down slightly while I'm cruising along at most speeds under 50mph.
holidaychicken
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That does sound cheap to me for a fully rebuilt recon engine which i guess means vanos, timing chain and guides, tensioners and maybe other stuff.
Who is the company and i would imagine they want your old engine ?
Didn't you replace the cam cover seals ?
Who is the company and i would imagine they want your old engine ?
Didn't you replace the cam cover seals ?
wooly123
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hi,i cant see the noise either, it sounds exactly the same as my p38 4.6 and starts from cold , it goes away sometimes,but is usally their,?whats a vanos~
Hamster97
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The company is called any engine in Wolverhampton and ye, all new vanos seals, chain, guides etc etc. Seen good things about them, seen some bad but they do work for JLR main dealers so surely can't be that bad?
I changed the cam cover gasket and checked with a mirror the best I could a week or so later, to be honest it looked ok so maybe as saint said, the indy just wants to throw parts at it and charge me for the privilege until they get to the bottom of it and they aren't cheap, they quoted me £25 per lifter too so I imagine the parts prices are inflated to make up the profit on top of the high labour costs.
I dunno, I'd like to be trusting and be happy that I found somewhere to supply and fit a recon engine for £2500 but it seems too good to be true and if it seems like that, it probably is..........
I changed the cam cover gasket and checked with a mirror the best I could a week or so later, to be honest it looked ok so maybe as saint said, the indy just wants to throw parts at it and charge me for the privilege until they get to the bottom of it and they aren't cheap, they quoted me £25 per lifter too so I imagine the parts prices are inflated to make up the profit on top of the high labour costs.
I dunno, I'd like to be trusting and be happy that I found somewhere to supply and fit a recon engine for £2500 but it seems too good to be true and if it seems like that, it probably is..........
