L322 V8 tap tap tap

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Believe it or not, no, I haven't even tried to bleed since I got it back but that's because I keep forgetting. I'm preparing to order a set of lifters (looking for recommendations here, £30 each at Land Rover) and when I've got them it's going back in to have the cam timing reset and the lifters fitted, should be good as new then.
One thing I have noticed is that I still get a startup rattle similar to guides/vanos startup rattle, buggered if I know why but I've decided to live with it.
On the upside, I had my aircon regassed and a 4 wheel computerised spaceship laser tracking done on Saturday. Icy cold and drives like new......... If only I could get the engine finally sorted lol.
 
The startup rattle can be a few things but normally associated with the vanos as you know. There are non return valves behind the vanos solenoids which are very easy to change if they haven't done them already, apparently there are two under the heads that are not easy to change but other factors can be type of oil and also a non drain back valve in the oil filter housing but i have never tracked that one down.
Do you have the part number for the lifters, if not i can find on microcat maybe
The start rattle could be your lifters I guess ?
 
Might be lifters and none of the valves were changed so also a possibility.
Part number for the followers is 11321440256.
Could do with a good quality set recommending that aren't £30 each lol
 
I'll have a scout about later and I'll get you the part number for the NRV behind the vanos solenoid, they are worth knocking off the list, in for a penny and all that :)
 
First find, don't know much about them but as you are basically looking for BMW parts for an engine produced in the millions i would guess there should be some good deals around for BMW parts as landrover will double their cost price no doubt
http://www.buycarparts.co.uk/oen/lgr000010?gadw=1&gclid=CO7kh-qS2s0CFXEz0wodyzsIjQ#

This is from doing a search for bmw X5 tappet on the same site, would need to double check what parts are correct, just having a quick look around.
if you can cross reference the BMW part number and then search that it would give you more options

http://www.buycarparts.co.uk/search?keyword=tappet

and the vanos solenoid non return valve, i made up a special tool and bought a bolt to remove the NRV but you garage may be able to do that. The bmw tool is below but i made mine from a box spanner and welded on a bit of tiube and the bolt is a metric fine, if you want detail I'll dig that out
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321169873895

http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/124099/5497/valve_assy___non_return

made no difference when i changed mine but you are used to that........:(
 
Last edited:
Ye I'm used lots of effort for little or no result lol.
Thanks mate, BMW dealer price for the lifters was £4 each more than Land Rover believe it or not.
I also get 10 percent discount at my local dealers now lol, something that took 3 years to achieve at my BMW dealer but only 12 months at Land Rover.
Range Rover ownership is a good social exercise, if you're not very sociable, Range Rover ownership isn't for you lol.
I think the part number I posted was the BMW part number btw but I've also discovered Mercedes and probably other manufacturers use the same lifter.
Thanks lads.
 
did that first link look like the ones, the part number cross referenced to landrover LGR000010 part number and not bad price at £15 - £18 if they are good quality ?
tappets.jpg


tappets 2.jpg
 
Ye, they're the ones mate. As you said, depends on quality so maybe I could start a go fund me page for the cost of the tappets and be a Guinea pig lol.
Thanks for that and your info and suggestions about the non return valve, I do really appreciate the effort you lads are putting in to help.
Thanks again.
 
You only need one tappet mate, but which one...............
Not sure why they start to tap, could it be an oilway that supplies the tappet has become restricted and a strip down and clean cures it, or not , again
 
I think it's all down to the previous oil leak, it run quite low a couple of times, enough to put the low pressure light on when braking or cornering. When it started to tap it had put the light on and I'd run out of 5w30 so I topped up with 15w40 semi synthetic (4 litres) and it was after this I heard it tapping.
I've been told it could be the thicker oil not flowing through the lifters properly that's caused damage to one of them or maybe it's happened because it ran low oil a few times. Identifying which lifter has given up is a mission I don't want to take on so best to replace all and keep my fingers crossed.
Thanks HC ;)
 
Hamster97 said:
Identifying which lifter has given up is a mission
Click to expand...
Can you get hold of a good engine stethoscope? You may be able to pin down the location of the the tapping within one or two lifters, with the cost of the new parts it seems a shame to ditch all the original lifters when all the noise may be down to just one. A big financial incentive to just fix that which is broke only.
 
It's not what I'd call a good one, it's an eBay special but I reckon it's drivers side, 1st 2 pots. Sort of narrows it down to 8 lifters but what if it's not? That's another stripdown then swapping lifters about then trying to remember which hole the originals came out of but you're spot on, it is such a shame to replace a whole bank for the sake of 1 noisy lifter.
 
I was thinking today about changing my oil to 10W-40 as my start up rattle is most prominent when the car is warm but has been stood for an hour or so or if it hasn't been started for a week. I currently use Shell helix ultra 5W-40 and wondered if the thicker oil might help but after reading your last post, I might not ....
You definitely have a bad case of Range Rover
 
These cars are bad for me as I have the mental condition of a perfectionist, the credit rating of Greece and the mechanical prowess of an excited cocker spaniel with a spanner in its mouth
You haven't been trusting any of my 'advice' have you??:)
 
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