V8 replacement

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in my experience the old rover is nice and simple and cheap

it makes your land rover move forwards and makes v8 noise

it is catastrophic on fuel but so also will be a more efficient engine that makes more horsepower and that will also be catastrophically good at breaking everything in between it and the tyres

the rover is good for poor men that want v8 action :D
 
oh and i dont see how you need to spend over 1k on a stock motor, 3.5 is admirable too, i bought mine with a new crank&cam as an unstarted project for 400
 
Mr Noisy said:
in my experience the old rover is nice and simple and cheap

it makes your land rover move forwards and makes v8 noise

it is catastrophic on fuel but so also will be a more efficient engine that makes more horsepower and that will also be catastrophically good at breaking everything in between it and the tyres

the rover is good for poor men that want v8 action :D
Click to expand...

bit of a contradition there....poor men wont be able to drive it more than 5 miles without running out fuel!

now what about the audi v6 diesel?..ecu may be a problemm,but then again..
150 hp..v engine noise..plus economy..and they dirt cheap..ie £200
 
zen said:
bit of a contradition there....poor men wont be able to drive it more than 5 miles without running out fuel!

now what about the audi v6 diesel?..ecu may be a problem,but then again..
150 hp..v engine noise..plus economy..and they dirt cheap..ie £200
Click to expand...

good engine?
 
no idea...audi though..dont tend to make pooh..i magine chipped,bigger intercooler will be good for 200hp and **** loads of torque....

small and compact too.....possible ideal series conversion???..just ecu to worry about..but megasquirt looks like it works on oil burners too...
 
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how black sludgy is it in there? thats normally a good indicator of wear, particuarly int he top end as it means the oild has not been kept up to scratch and they dont like that!
 
Get a length of M10 steel threaded bar (sometimes called engineers studding), cut a slot on one end to engage oil pump drive. Mark then remove the distributor - get some help if you aren't confident about doing that.

Stick threaded bar in to a cordless drill, engage oil pump and then spin it up, you'll know when it is primed.

Failing that then I'm afraid you'll have to do it the old fashioned way, remove the pump, pack with vaseline, re-assemble then crank it over.

The oil light should go out on the starter motor alone - disconnect the coil and crank 'till you get oil pressure then re-connect and see if it fires.

From what you say, it starts then dies after 5 seconds or so could suggest an air leak, certainly that symptom is how an air leak can present on an EFI motor.

From what other have said on your other thread a compression check would be a good idea but if you haven't got oil pressure the valves won't be opening properly so not sure what results you might get.

HTH
 
That's a brilliant idea. Will try that at the weekend. I did read about rebuilding the pump and packing with vas but was last resort.

I don't want to be continually cranking to get it to start if I have an oil issue.

In terms of running. If I give it choke and lots of throttle I can keep it going but it sounds fecked
 
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