Under-engine crossmember gussets problem

Webley1991 · Oct 24, 2014

I finally got to the stage today where I was able to lift the engine onto the new chassis.

However, there was a problem. The gussets for the under engine crossmember foul on the bellhousing. This is at the point where the mounting for the clutch slave cylinder is (see photos). This also throws the alignment of the gearbox mounts out.

It looks like the only option here is to cut some of it away using an angle grinder. However I am worring about compromising the strength of the chassis if I do this.

Cutting part away would also compromise the galvanising, causing a possible point that rust could start from. Would coating it with cold galv spray be sufficient here?

Thanks for any advice.

divie · Oct 24, 2014

First port of call if mine would be the chassis maker.

samc88 · Oct 24, 2014

Its your toilet roll tubes getting in the way

Cold galv should be fine. Are you painting over the chassis anyway? That'll give it even more protection

Murtle · Oct 24, 2014

Standard engine and gearbox I assume, along with new standard mounts? Looking at your picture it all seems too far back by couple inches, or the cross member is too far forward?

Honest Walt · Oct 25, 2014

It looks like a SIII engine/gearbox in a SII chassis?

Webley1991 · Oct 25, 2014

Thanks for the replies.

Walt: I think you may be onto something there.

From looking online, my chassis is (mostly) Series 3 as it has a welded handbrake bracket. I found somehwhere that says that the S2 had a bolt-on handbrake bracket. It also has the angle iron braces between the chassis rails and bulkhead outriggers. Apparently the S2 didn't have these. This was a question I had on here before.

However, I did find that apparently the gussets on the middle crossmember on a Series 2 chassis will foul on the slave cylinder attachment on the bellhousing. I can see how this mistake could be made when fabricating one. Looking at photos of my old chassis, the angle of these gussets is definitely steeper.

As for contacting the chassis maker, it has been over a year since I bought it. I wouldn't think the manufacturer would do anything now. It sat in my workshop for ages until I was able to get the axles sorted. I then had even more delays for with the engine.

I think it would be easier to cut the offending area out. It was a lot of work to get to this stage, which would all need to be re-done with a different chassis.

NiteMare · Oct 25, 2014

the late 2a had certain similarities with the S3 chassis that you've already listed, so i'd hazard a guess that you've bought a late 2a chassis and as you've found out the crossmember gusset gets in the way of the S3 slave cylinder mount

chop it out and paint it up, the steel there is strong/thick and the likelihood of rust becoming a problem there in the next 40 or so years is pretty slim

remember that the engine will most likely be leaking a certain amount of oil before then so it'll be supplying it's own protection

Rattlegun · Oct 25, 2014

Yes the webs need cutting, have a look at the pics halfway into this post - cut both sides. Easy with a grinder and cutting disc.
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/2793014-post107.html

Webley1991 · Oct 25, 2014

Thanks for that. By "cut both sides", do you mean that the driver's side will need doing as well, or just both webs at the passenger side?

NiteMare · Oct 25, 2014

this is the picture Rattlegun was talking about

Rattlegun · Oct 26, 2014

Sorry for the ambiguity, you need to cut both webs on the passenger side.

Webley1991 · Nov 3, 2014

I managed to do this over the weekend. Thinking about it, I could have dont the vertical cuts at an angle to leave more steel there. However, I wanted to make certain that nothing would catch on anything.

Under-engine crossmember gussets problem

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