Twin tank WVO set up

Hi, i have looked for days now an can't find any decent source of conversion,
I am a veteran when it comes to this having run cars on this for 10 years mainly pugs, and a xantia that i done over 100,000 miles on waste veg oil and old engine oil and that never skipped a beat, service every 6k i would often do newcastle to guildford every week in it on 100% waste.

I have ran discos on the stuff before and in the past run my own design of twin tank system that mainly consists of a boat fuel tank and some change over valves, a quick kit to fit and remove to the XUD engine as it has a heated fuel filter but the 300tdi doesn't oh dear and its got a lift pump oh dear oh dear so these make the job a bit more painful

Any information on a conversion or links would be great

found this


Land rover discovery 300tdi wvo bio vegetable oil conversio - YouTube

This interests me a lot as now running my first diesel. Also really want to build a hho dry cell to see for myself if they have any positive effect.

I saw in tescos yesterday they had two 5 litres of sunflower oil for £9 I almost bought some just to make a 50 / 50 mix but then bottled it. Lol

Still searching, i would show you my drawings but its a bit Tomas aged 5 LOL, the guy in the vid has got the right idea but his canister filters are too expensive and big he should have used the basic plastic inline ones and he talks about crud blocking things up i have run veg oil for years and after the initial fill of oil in the vehicles original fuel tank the is no need for extra filters the vehicle one is fine, i don't put any inline filters in i just change the main vehicle filter after the first tank full, and then every 20k miles i do keep a spare in the boot but thats because i travel very long distances and would hate to get caught out on a school boy error !

Any good ? of past experience i might move the veg oil pre filter to after the heat exchanger as when the oil is thicker it often restricts the flow,

Yer I like the idea of a twin tank setup and agree that its better to use the cheap filters as you can also see into them.

My main issue is space for filtering and where to get the waste oil from as I have heard it is more difficult to collect now as many companies pay to buy this stuff from chippies etc.
I only have limited space in one already very full shed.

What filtration system do you use to clean the oil?

So are you already doing this on your Disco?

Having the filter where the oil is thinner definitely makes sense to me.

i am not using a twin tank on the disco yet, its just got a splash of WVO in the tank

I have all the components to install from previous vehicles i have fitted kits to just finding out what people do or don't to make there installations as easy to live with as possible,

In the past i have crudely fitted fuel containers in the boot etc and used switches but this system i want to hide and be a quality reliable install, if you have the tank in the boot often the smell of fuel is also in the car and even worse you will spill fuel when filling and mess up the interior etc so its not the way to go, i have however been looking at

Land Rover Discovery 2 - Small Under Wing Fuel Tank - if you have LPG | eBay

these mount behind the drivers side rear wheel and would allow you to open the existing fuel flap on the vehicle to 2 filler necks sympathetic don't you think ?

as many people say heating the fuel up is not necessary under normal conditions people say its for the pump etc etc its not you need to warm the fuel to allow it to pass easily through filters and pipes when the outside temp is down to -10 to -20 i don't run WVO as its literally like slush one inline heater before the filter is fine don't bother with electric heaters either.

the biggest problem i am trying to get round is the purge cycle, i fear i may have to incorporate another fuel filter purely for veg as this would reduce the purge time and save cross contamination of fuel

Oh sorry forgot about the WVO bit, i will share a secret with the world ….. or not as i don't want to but anyone out of business who does it but i will tell you my way of processing WVO

kit needed

rain water bowser with lid
your garden shed
5mm metal rods
the cheapest J cloths you can find
a sewing machine set to the finest stitch
an extra drain tap
and a 7 day lead time (not strictly necessary just depends on the state of your raw product)

cheap easy cost effective way of production i have used it for over 10 years never had a problem i don't want to reveal how its put together but if you got all the bits and layer them out on the floor you could probably work it out

Oh and the golden rule don't be greedy and hot filter.

Hi dave, (Assuming this is your name from your username)
I know of the behind the rear wheel arch tanks you are talking of as used them hundreds of times when I used to be heavily involved with LPG conversions. Im not sure you would have space in the filler cap for two fillers however this all depends on the sixe of your additional filler I guess.

Also be carefull as if memory serves me correctly you will have to make sure you get a tank that is for a Discovery 1 (your link was for a D2) as they all have slight differences.

I was thinking of custom building a small tank (or maybe even two) to go between the chassis rail and the sill. Maybe with a filler point in the floor of the car or a piped connection that would allow fuel to be pumped in.

I am not sure I follow you on the purge cycle. I pressure by cross contamination you mean when you switch back to diesel you will have WVO in a small section of return hose that will find its way back into your Diesel tank?? And by another filter you mean have this installed on the return hose?

I have always read about filtering down to 5 microns?? Not necessary then with J cloths??

Happy to take this section of the thread to PM if you are?

hi yes whoops got the tank wrong but you got the just,

the extra filter would be on the WVO waste intake side after the heat exchanger then after the lift pump just before the injection pump, basically by passing the filter on the bulk head, this would massively reduce purge times but would mean more valves and pipes

This generally doesn't need doing a dual filter but its advantages are a quick purge time of 2 minutes or a mile and probably around a 50% saving in diesel, the vehicle then has the advantage of almost a duel fuel feed system if the smaller diesel tank is fitted with a electric pump then a failure in either system would mean you can carry on see if i can flow diagram it below

RUNNING DIESEL

DIESEL TANK
ELECTRIC PUMP
FILTER 1
CHANGE OVER VALVE
INJECTION PUMP
CHANGEOVER VALVE
DIESEL TANK


RUNNING VEG OIL

VEG TANK
HEAT EXCHANGER
VEHICLE LIFT PUMP
FUEL FILTER 2
CHANGE OVER VALVE
INJECTOR PUMP
CHANGE OVER VALVE
VEG TANK

PURGE BACK TO DIESEL STAGE 1 AROUND 1 MINUTE HOLD AT TICK OVER MAYBE EVEN LESS

DIESEL TANK
ELECTRIC PUMP
FUEL FILTER 1
CHANGEOVER VALVE
INJECTION PUMP
CHANGEOVER VALVE
VEG TANK

STAGE 2

DIESEL TANK
ELECTRIC PUMP
FUEL FILTER 1
CHANGEOVER VALVE
INJECTION PUMP
CHANGEOVER VALVE
DIESEL TANK

If you can follow the above this would enable a quick efficient purge, it doesn't need to be like the above but thats about as refined and efficient as i can design it really

Another design from someone a bit crude really

Oh and by the way you may wonder why all the Hoo Har normally it wouldn't be i would have just slammed a it on it and cracked on but the engine is a ………….. EDC one so this should be fun :clap2:

v8discoian said:

I have always read about filtering down to 5 microns?? Not necessary then with J cloths??

Happy to take this section of the thread to PM if you are?

Click to expand...

J cloths are about 5 micron rated-use em all the time wrapped round a 2 micron cartridge to filter my bio,prior to putting in tank.
I get J cloths on a roll from the £1 shop

Just a point on this i have still not getting round to the conversion, But run th disco on pretty much everything but diesel,

The other day the pump timing slipped as i was doing around 4000 rpm ( at the 10mm under the inspection cover) probably due to the excessive load on the FIP

Its a long time since i have heard a diesel backfire YE HA !!!

drove it back must have looked like a mobile episode of stars in there eyes couldn't see nothing for smoke popped the cover of re set the timing fine since, just kind of stopped thrashing it so much

I've been running my 200tdi disco on oil for about a month now. My mates got a German made kit he paid about £400 quid for and I just ordered all the bits he had off eBay, cost me about £150. I made myself a stainless fuel tank and a couple of mates helped me fit it all. As far as filtering goes my oil sits in a steel drum before passing through 3 cartridge filters 25, 5 and 1 micron. There is also a water removal filter sleeve which removes any water that's left after settling/ heating the oil. I've more than halved my fuel bill!

DiscoMatt77 said:

I've been running my 200tdi disco on oil for about a month now. My mates got a German made kit he paid about £400 quid for and I just ordered all the bits he had off eBay, cost me about £150. I made myself a stainless fuel tank and a couple of mates helped me fit it all. As far as filtering goes my oil sits in a steel drum before passing through 3 cartridge filters 25, 5 and 1 micron. There is also a water removal filter sleeve which removes any water that's left after settling/ heating the oil. I've more than halved my fuel bill!

Click to expand...

your water removal filter will only remove free water, it won't remove any water that has been absorbed by the wvo, the only way to get that out is to heat it.

My steel drum has an immersion heater element in the bottom that i use to heat it before letting it settle/cool again before filtering.

i have heated and settled for 24 hours a 100l batch of wvo, drained off the water and any cloudy oil, i have then pumped it to the processor, I then heated to 100Deg C for 2 hours while pumping and bubbling and condensed off another 1.5L of water.

simple heating and settling will not remove all the water, water filters only remove free water i.e. that water that will settle out on its own.