Td5 rough at +3k rpm

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I'll be very honest and say it looks like moderate engine damage.
And if it was me I'd do a compression test pronto, and/or a leak down test.
One other thing, is it blowing oil etc from out of the crankcase? Typical if the rings and bores are shot.
To me blue/white "smoke" looks like unburnt fuel mixing with oil. What does the exhaust smell like in relation to the exhaust from a known good vehicle?
Any smell of diesel or oil, or coolant?
 
retrorides said:
Sorry guys neglected looking at this for a couple of days

I’m not 100% clued in on tagging or referring to certain bits of text like the experts are so I do apologize I’ll get there one day lol.

It’s now Smokey on startup usual bit of black as it fires up, and some blue/white followed by white (putting that down to condensation). The blue/white, would that be just a bit of oil from the turbo till it’s warm?

Badger 668- i don’t see any oil leaks from the top, gave it a clean and doesn’t seem to be anything after a good week or two of driving. Head gasket wise, I don’t see any tell-tale signs, coolants not dropping, not bubbling in expansion tank but could possibly be a split between 2 cylinders? I’d assume that would put out an awful lot of smoke tho?

Stanleysteamer- I might put a new crank sensor in it anyway and see if that helps. And yes I’m going to get new engine mounts too they seem to have sagged a bit, it struggling and smoking over 3k I would like to hope isn’t engine mounts tho but I could be wrong lol! From seeing the smoke on startup today I’m going to say is definitely smoke not condensation.

Sierrafery- Im going to take it to a mechanic friend of mine who says he can get live data and see if it picks up anything. It’s not as noticeable stationary either only seems to be bad under load. It’s a manual too thought I’d put that in already whoops!

My thoughts are starting to believe it could be flywheel related as well, has some juddering and difficulty getting into gear sometimes. Changed gearbox oil with good quality MTF 94, could maybe do with a slave/master cylinder as well as the bite points quite low but I rather like it lol fairly saves the leg!

Thanks everyone for your suggestions I really appreciate it.
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I wouldn't throw ANY money at parts just yet, nor would I worry about flywheel etc. Just get to the bottom of the engine problem.
"One piece at a time" (cf Johnny Cash!)
 
Hello again.
So I’ve done a little bit more work, front axle seal, changing fluids and installing a TF lift kit that came with the car swapping out the awful lift blocks. What a pain!

I finally got the courage to give it the shoe, got it up to about 4250rpm and to my surprise the awful vibrations phased out mostly over 3500rpm and pulled right the way. I do suffer badly with mechanical sympathy and it kills me to do it. Something’s defo still not right however I’ve concluded it’s not fuel/air related as it had no problems at all and was smooth right the way through. I am however going to change engine and gearbox mounts, for my own piece of mind and they don’t look to have been changed before so what’s the harm!
I turned the boost down a little bit, cleaned out all the injector harness connectors with some contact cleaner and it’s not really smoking any more which is amazing and it’s definitely not losing any oil or coolant.

Now to find the knock coming from the front end lol! My moneys on panhard rod as it’s the only thing that I can see hasn’t been changed and the bushings look a bit munched. Or propshaft, only doing it when I let off accelerator. Did it before the proper lift kit too!

Thanks for your help guys,
 
Re the boost, how many threads have you now got showing on the wastegate actuator? It should 13 or thereabouts.
And re the flywheel, I've rethought this a bit and an now wondering if it could indeed be the DMF playing up, but then mines an auto so my probs are different to yours!
 
Stanleysteamer said:
Re the boost, how many threads have you now got showing on the wastegate actuator? It should 13 or thereabouts.
And re the flywheel, I've rethought this a bit and a now wondering if it could indeed be the DMF playing up, but then mines an auto so my probs are different to yours!
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Yes I’ve read up about 13 threads however this was way off on mine 13 threads and the adjuster bottomed out on the treaded bar. I suspect a replacement non genuine actuator, I used the pressure gauge to make it start to move at 1.5 bar initially which I know is a little over recommended but read people running that with no issues, I slackened it down to 1.2bar as standard (if my memory serves me right). It did pre dump a few times at 1.5 bar runs sweet and smooth now.

Yep going to bury the flywheel deep for now and change the engine mounts in hope that it’s hitting a resonant frequency causing excessive vibration.
 
retrorides said:
I used the pressure gauge to make it start to move at 1.5 bar initially which I know is a little over recommended but read people running that with no issues, I slackened it down to 1.2bar as standard (if my memory serves me right).
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If the D2 is not remapped the overboost limit is set by factory to 1.42bar(calculated by the ECU) so 1.5 would be overboost unless one of the AAP or MAP readings is low but 1.2 bar boost is low cos the standard setting was for 1.3 for the D2, 1.2 is for Defender without WGM
 
sierrafery said:
If the D2 is not remapped the overboost limit is set by factory to 1.42bar(calculated by the ECU) so 1.5 would be overboost unless one of the AAP or MAP readings is low but 1.2 bar boost is low cos the standard setting was for 1.3 for the D2, 1.2 is for Defender without WGM
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Yes it did over-boost the odd time, would cut power for a second and then boost again, I'll crank it up to 1.3 bar but felt powerful enough at 1.2. Read a post on bypassing the modulator, I cant see any major benefit to this other than troubleshooting the modulator? But also cant see any disadvantages? More reliable boost dump to protect the turbo? Surely if it was to be set up that way the nipple off the boost pipes should be inlet manifold side of the intercooler?
 
retrorides said:
o_OHello all,
Just picked up a slightly neglected discovery 2 Td5 (10p), excited for the fun to follow!

It leaks from the usual places and have a list of things to sort on it but one thing I’d like to sort before going any further into it is the rough running!

I’ve seen previous threads on this but none seem to have the right solution for me.

It starts on the button, idles well but when it gets to 3k it sounds like it’s about to shake itself apart and puts out a bit of white smoke (haven’t been able to determine if it’s unburnt fuel or coolant). Below 2.7k it runs sweet and is a joy (o_O) to drive.
Things I’ve tried so far:
-Set the correct waste gate actuator pressure (wasn’t even connected when I received the disco) and the lever actuates well and isn’t sticky
-replaced a stinking air filter
-checked red ecu plug (no oil)
-cleaned MAP sensor
-tried disconnecting MAF sensor
-oil level isn’t rising and doesn’t smell of diesel
-doesn’t get hot or use coolant (after a leak was fixed) and no bubbles in header tank
-has previously had an EGR delete
-lift pump in tank replaced along with filter

I am stumped so thought I’d pop on here to see if anyone’s got any better ideas of what it may be.

I don’t have nanocom or Hawkeye, I’m based in Newtownards, Northern Ireland too so I’m not sure how many enthusiasts there are around me!

Thanks all!
Daniel
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Well i went through a similar thing until i changed the Mass Air flow unit and its like new again, the boys at the garage next door say they these engines eat them at about 70,000 miles, they fit loads
 
Why would anybody want to rev a 20+ year old diesel engine to 3000rpm? Max tor. is at 2200 and 60mph, which is more than enough for me to tow my 2ton trailer all over the hills of Wales, and the ocasional push to 2500rpm so I do not hold up the traffic behind. Its nearly a vintage show it some respect.
 
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