Treating the chassis to some love.. but how?

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IamRobbie

IamRobbie

Well-Known Member
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2,800
Location
Derbyshire, j28 M1
Ok so I'm currently cutting out any bits of rot that are starting to show on my 90s chassis and patch them up, obviously as i wire brush the chassis back to clean metal on the other parts its pretty pitted with rust, whats the best way to treat my chassis before i waxoyl or shiltz it?
 
IamRobbie said:
Ok so I'm currently cutting out any bits of rot that are starting to show on my 90s chassis and patch them up, obviously as i wire brush the chassis back to clean metal on the other parts its pretty pitted with rust, whats the best way to treat my chassis before i waxoyl or shiltz it?
Click to expand...

Have a look at the dinitrol web site.
 
I am in a similar situation. I was planning on spraying hammerite after I clean it up with a wire brush and cheap sand blast gun..
 
+1 on no hammerite. It does not last - tried that once on a thoroughly cleaned up chassis section and it fell off less than a year later.

When I did the chassis currently under my 110 years ago I cleaned it all back to bare metal, treated it with a few coats of epoxy galvanizing (zinc-filled epoxy - 95% zinc when dry) and topcoated that with chassis black. Still looks great, and scratches do not travel under the paint and are easy to touch up.

ajr
 
i need to have the wing off to knock out the dent i did when off roading and a few other bits of the chassis r going to be sorted when i hit it all in one go, so i need to know what to buy so that i can get it all done at once.
 
I'd vote for Dinitrol too. Their 4941 material sticks very well and doesn't appear to be prone to dry out and flake. Get some of the thin and runny ML3125 too, to squirt inside the chassis. In fact the 3125 is rather like creosote for metal. When I'm working on the Land Rover I have an old pan with some in and dab a bit on with a brush wherever I see metal that's exposed and going rusty.

Hammerite is OK if you undercoat with red oxide primer first. On things where I've done that, it has proved fairly weather resistant over a period of time.
 
Brown said:
I'd vote for Dinitrol too. Their 4941 material sticks very well and doesn't appear to be prone to dry out and flake. Get some of the thin and runny ML3125 too, to squirt inside the chassis. In fact the 3125 is rather like creosote for metal. When I'm working on the Land Rover I have an old pan with some in and dab a bit on with a brush wherever I see metal that's exposed and going rusty.

Hammerite is OK if you undercoat with red oxide primer first. On things where I've done that, it has proved fairly weather resistant over a period of time.
Click to expand...

Love the ML3125, so easy to use, spray, brush or pour as required :) Gets into places waxoyl just wont reach.

I think hammerite is ****e, red oxide first then enamel on top is harder wearing.
 
IamRobbie said:
so dinatrol straight to the clean/pitted metal then a undercoat after?
Click to expand...
Well, you can paint on top of Dinitrol - I've been surprised how well paint sticks to it and stays on, where the two have overlapped. But you might as well just use Dinitrol, then you can just spray some more on when it looks like it's wearing thin.
 
Well to my mind it's either/or. There's the Dinitrol route which I've chosen, where you just put Dinitrol on, and then put some more on in subsequent years if you need it. Then there's the paint route, where the consensus seems to be that bog standard Hammerite etc. won't help you for very long, and people put all sorts of fancy stuff on with added epoxy, zinc and the like. The latter route is probably easiest with the body off the chassis because then you can clean back to bare metal and get good adhesion.
 
Why not contact dinitrol, explain what you intend to do and ask them , if anyone knows they will.
They sell kits that give you multiple products for undersealing.
 
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