Classic transmission problem/s

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jamesmartin said:
no , A you couldnt without splitting the box and they are a tight press fit B they rarely fail the bw is the one lr unit ive rebuilt you dare reusing the bearings apart from the output as they were the 2 bearings lr sourced for the box
a bw from a classic i would remove rear output housing and check the shaft inner splines, you pull housing and shaft out as an assembly
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Bloody hell !! that was quick.
Thanks very much for that, all good advice, and reassuring.:):)
 
Thread revival time, (though I've seen worse).
I have been gradually working my way through Buttercup's transmission, looking for the source of the noise, most work going on the "what did you do with your Range Rover" thread.
New VCU, old one was Snafu, new h/d prop U/J's, stripped and lubricated H' brake, checked brake mud shields, checked brakes all round and eventually decided to replace rear calipers as one piston was a bit reluctant to return off the disk.
No difference, noise still coming and going.:mad::mad::mad:
So this morning I decided to remove the H'brake shoes altogether to rule that out even though on inspection there looked to be no obvious wear points, put back together to trial her without H'brake shoes for a while.
Now here's the thing, while replacing the prop I noticed that the mudshield on the diff flange (part # FRC 8154 - I think) was loose on the flange shaft, cleaned up as best I could while still in place and think I can see some wear marks on the outer rim of the mudshield where it has been rubbing in the diff nose. So far this is the most obvious sign of contact wear I have seen in this whole saga, going to leave in place as is for the moment just to rule out the H'brake 1st. If noise is still there reassemble H'brake and remove diff flange mudshield to see what that does.
How important is the mudsield?, can I just bin it? or do I need to replace? is it worth replacing the input flange? as far as I know the flange itself is in good order as I replaced the oil seal last year and it looked OK then.

Anyway sorry for the long post, just a fair bit of back story to get us in the right order of things. :):)
 
My first thought was that a '88 wouldn't have a VCU but then curiosity got the better of me, so I consulted the bible ... VCU intro'd October '88.
Nearly made a chump of myself there :oops:
Good luck with the repairs.
 
Gazbo said:
What we did with my mates, (ex RRC '88 VM + viscous LT77 in an '85 County) we fitted a std transfer box with centre diff lock, easy, and because we had one off an old gearbox, a lot less expensive than replacing the VC, not as "pukka" but does the job.
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Too right it does, my '87 auto has the manual centre diff lock & having had a RRC with the BW setup I don't regret the lack of a VCU one little bit :rolleyes:
 
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Datatek said:
Shame a transfer box with a proper diff lock instead of a VCU cannot be fitted to the ZF auto box in the P38:(
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I've read/heard that LR went for the BW setup to reduce transmission whine from the T.box . Maybe it's because my RRC is still low mileage, but I can't say the slight background whine is in any way obtrusive, even at M/way speeds. More likely 'sales' decided that the omission of a device that actually needed some input from the driver would prove a selling point to perspective owners ;)
 
norseman said:
I've read/heard that LR went for the BW setup to reduce transmission whine from the T.box . Maybe it's because my RRC is still low mileage, but I can't say the slight background whine is in any way obtrusive, even at M/way speeds. More likely 'sales' decided that the omission of a device that actually needed some input from the driver would prove a selling point to perspective owners ;)
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I'm sure you are right.
 
Disco 1's had the LT230 and i don't recall any whine in the D1's i've been in..

Perhaps they added the BW VCU to decrese driver effort :rolleyes: No levers to push/pull, must be better :rolleyes::D

Would prefer manual in the P38 tbh :cool:
 
Could be right about the reduction in driver input as a reason to move to the vcu as it was probably seen as a differentiator from the landis but I was always under the impression that it was the introduction of the chain drive in the transfer box that was there to reduce transmission whine
 
Many thanks for the replies guys, however the question remains - how important is the mudshield (FRC 8154) to the seal/bearing etc in the nose of the diff.?
When I take the prop off to reassemble the H'brake would be the logical time to remove the flange from the diff and chuck the mudshield. Need I replace it? I know it's only about £0.80 but postage is going to be £6, could I weld the shield I have onto the flange?
Another option of course while I'm underneath is just to replace the whole lot, flange/shield/oil-seal, then at least I can be fairly sure that will be sorted for the next few years.
 
frog hopper said:
Many thanks for the replies guys, however the question remains - how important is the mudshield (FRC 8154) to the seal/bearing etc in the nose of the diff.?
When I take the prop off to reassemble the H'brake would be the logical time to remove the flange from the diff and chuck the mudshield. Need I replace it? I know it's only about £0.80 but postage is going to be £6, could I weld the shield I have onto the flange?
Another option of course while I'm underneath is just to replace the whole lot, flange/shield/oil-seal, then at least I can be fairly sure that will be sorted for the next few years.
Click to expand...
I assume that £6 is from the UK? Have you tried French suppliers?
www.Landers-Shop.fr www.Pieces-range-rover.com www.Landypoint.fr
 
Henry_b said:
Sounds like the VCU is goosed.

A replacement is not too expensive and if it's anything like the P38's Borg Warner t'box it shouldn't be too difficult to replace.

I belive the one wheel up test requires a set 70nm force to turn the wheel..
Click to expand...

70 nm is what my P38 manual took to turn the front wheel with a refurbed transfer box from Ashcrofts. You have to tease it round really slowly otherwise it clicks. My old one took 140nm but it wasn't seized, just hard to shift. It felt much smoother on the road afterwards and the scrubbing on the outside of the tyres stopped so it was worth doing.
 
frog hopper said:
Bit more of the story.
Something else I noticed on the way back with a fortnights worth of shopping in the back (including a massive case of beer on offer at 40 bottles for €12) there is a small lag between speed and revs, almost as if the clutch is slipping, I guess this is the VCU having a go at doing what it was meant to do, then it's noises on again for a while.
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I don't think the VCU should have any slip unless it has let go. I think I read somewhere that someone had had one just spin freely rather than seize but it might have been a Freelander thread. I'd be more worried about the clutch. My slave cylinder on the P38 has a spring inside. Is the Classic the same? Is there any movement before the clutch-pedal feels pressure?
 
Datatek said:
I assume that £6 is from the UK? Have you tried French suppliers?
www.Landers-Shop.fr www.Pieces-range-rover.com www.Landypoint.fr
Click to expand...

Hi @Datatek , yes that would be from the UK, I do often price compare with Landypoint, a nice group of lads. The £6 was just a panic comment.

Grrrrrr said:
I don't think the VCU should have any slip unless it has let go. I think I read somewhere that someone had had one just spin freely rather than seize but it might have been a Freelander thread. I'd be more worried about the clutch. My slave cylinder on the P38 has a spring inside. Is the Classic the same? Is there any movement before the clutch-pedal feels pressure?
Click to expand...

Hi @Grrrrrr . That was actually with the front prop removed.
With the new VCU installed and front prop replaced the clutch is performing as it should. (perhaps I should have whispered that - don't need any more krapton factor at the mo)
 
Right then, since removing the shoes from the H'brake the noises have stopped, so it looks as though that might well be the answer.
My problem now is that I want to put all back together with new shoes and return springs and really am not confident about the part numbers. I have looked through google and my parts book and if anything it has left me more confused than ever. There is a chance that a P O has replaced the handbrake shoes with the wrong ones, so maybe it's difficult for me to compare. Anyway, if I could call on the experience of @jamesmartin or anyone else with more knowledge than myself (not difficult) here are some references.
1988 (late) vin # ending FA351852 with BW tranny box # 003001019, LT77 G'box # 54A 00284915F, H'brake is cable operated with operating linkage and adjuster at approx 10 past 8 (as clock face) viewed from rear, no holes in back-plate for retaining pin/springs.
Part numbers I have finally come up with after conversations with Paddocks are ICW500010g for shoes and ICW100050 for spring kit, does this look right? do I just bin the retaining pin/springs and fit the rest? The return springs that were originally fitted were 2 long green ones which I now suspect to be wrong.

https://www.paddockspares.com/icw500010g-handbrake-shoes-cable-operated-mintex.html
https://www.paddockspares.com/icw10...retention-kit-inc-springs-cable-operated.html

Any help gratefully received thanks.
 
Pics of back plate.
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IMG_2211.JPG
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I know the last one of the T'box is crap but thought I'd include it anyway.
Hope this is enough for you @jamesmartin ? cheers.
 
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