Transfer box output nut torque

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T

TwoHundredTeeDeeEue

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Found the torque value for the front and rear transfer box flange nuts to be around 140-160Nm. Seems to be restrict the rotation of the flange a fair bit. I'm considering that it's cold, I've fitted new bearings to both sides and not refilled the transfer box fluid yet but still seems to be harder to turn by hand than I'd expect. If I back it off, it turns easily and there's no discernible play. Just wanted some reassurance that the torque value is correct before I refit the propshafts and handbrake drum! Cheers.
 
sierrafery said:
Found where? it's exactly 148NM for both according to the workshop manual
Click to expand...
That's great, thanks!
I found a few different values in different places so was a bit confused. There were a couple posts on this Forum and LR UK and a parts supplier had 158Nm listed on their product details.
 
According to Winchester and Ascrofts it should be 162Nm.
Good quality bearings or bearings with no name?
Wonder if over the years different torque settings were quoted?
Just checked I used 162Nm on the tdi.
 
Anaconda said:
According to Winchester and Ascrofts it should be 162Nm.
Click to expand...
That's according to the LT230T(or Q) overhaul manual while there is no dedicated manual for the LT230SE fitted to D2 which has certain mods so maybe those who edited the figures in RAVE knew more... or not

what's in the second attachment is similar for both front and rear in the wsm, i'd definitely go for 148 raather than 162 on the D2
 

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Bit of an update. Seems something is definitely wrong. Even if I nip the front output flange up so the nylon is engaged, it locks the box up. To make matters worse, the cheap seal on the rear output is leaking now I've filled the box. The front bearing was bad and the rear seal was leaking originally so I've done all the work for nothing!
Ordered some better quality seals and SKF bearings, will strip it out and try again.
Thanks for everyone's advice, I'll report back at a later date....
 
Hopefully it will go better next time.
Pointless buying cheap parts, even decent seals, Corteco, aren't expensive, quite often I buy two incase I **** it up or as a spare for next time.
 
Anaconda said:
Hopefully it will go better next time.
Pointless buying cheap parts, even decent seals, Corteco, aren't expensive, quite often I buy two incase I **** it up or as a spare for next time.
Click to expand...
I normally buy semi decent parts but just ordered stuff in a hurry this time and regretting it now! Especially considering the amount of work it took, massive waste of time...haha
 
Anaconda said:
I changed the flange when I did mine, it's cheap enough.
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I bought new flanges for mine too in case they were shagged. I did wonder if the front one might be slightly different and causing my issues but comparing the new with the old, they are identical so I'll keep using the new one when I do it all again!
 
I think the seal issue is sorted. The new seals look more like the ones I took out and are better quality. I didn't bother replacing the bearing on that side and I can torque it to spec without that side locking up.
So rear output is sorted I believe.
Pulled new nameless front bearing, installed new SKF bearing. Still locks up when torqued up, even when slightly nipped up. Very disappointed! Need to think about what I've possibly done wrong. Had this Disco for 20 years now, never touched the transfer box...
Might start a new post when I've pulled it all apart again and taken some photos. I noticed the cog receiver seems to already have a gear in it, hard to explain. I was expecting the cog on the output shaft would push into that receiver but obviously can't see what happens when the shaft goes back in. All seems to slip in fine, no resistance, can feel the splines on the internal end engage.
 
If I remember correctly you take the shaft out, remove old bearing from shaft, fit new bearing to shaft, knock it back in and fit a cir clip in place to hold it all in, is that correct?
Then seal and flange and associated stuff.
Correct mud shield on new flange?
 
TwoHundredTeeDeeEue said:
That's great, thanks!
I found a few different values in different places so was a bit confused. There were a couple posts on this Forum and LR UK and a parts supplier had 158Nm listed on their product details.
Click to expand...
I take it your post is regarding your 200 series D1, because there’s no mention of it, although it appears a D2 has slipped into the conversation which you haven’t mentioned either 🤔

Anyway from the horse’s mouth… a LR D1 workshop manual, a list of all the torque settings associated with a Transfer box is below.
I don't think that a slight 1% or so difference with a standard diy torque wrench would make any difference, unless your using a certified wrench to be precise 😊
 

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Anaconda said:
If I remember correctly you take the shaft out, remove old bearing from shaft, fit new bearing to shaft, knock it back in and fit a cir clip in place to hold it all in, is that correct?
Then seal and flange and associated stuff.
Correct mud shield on new flange?
Click to expand...
That's pretty much what I've done, I followed BusterBus' guide on here (very useful) and some other vids online. I initially drove the bearing onto the shaft, then into the box. Second time, I drifted the bearing over the shaft once installed, same result.
I tried the new shield that came with the kit, the old shield and, just to test, no shield. All the same result, box binds up once any torque to the flange nut is applied.
 
discool said:
I take it your post is regarding your 200 series D1, because there’s no mention of it, although it appears a D2 has slipped into the conversation which you haven’t mentioned either 🤔

Anyway from the horse’s mouth… a LR D1 workshop manual, a list of all the torque settings associated with a Transfer box is below.
I don't think that a slight 1% or so difference with a standard diy torque wrench would make any difference, unless your using a certified wrench to be precise 😊
Click to expand...
There did seem to be a bit of difference between torque settings between Defender, D1 and D2 in various places, even though it's the same box, one of the reasons I thought I best ask in case I was missing something obvious or my "ebay certified" torque wrench was massively out of spec! :)
 
Took the bearing out, again. The inside view looks very much like BusterBus' https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/transfer-box-front-output-bearing-and-oil-seal-renewal.81771/

I have purchased a new shaft from Ashcroft, just in case. The original looks okay but maybe it's slightly bent, worn or damaged. The old bearing was ruined for a couple months at least, didn't seem to cause any noticeable issues at the time!

I was concerned I'd put the spacer in the wrong way (it dropped on the floor when I knocked the old bearing off) but the flat side has witness marks from the gear on the shaft and numerous parts diagrams show the bevelled edge to the bearing side, flat to the gear on the shaft.

I picked a lot of remnants of the old bearing cage out from the bottom of the sump using a magnet but they seemed to be away from any moving parts so not sure if any of them could have been binding it up once the flange was tightened. Should have checked that before but still not sure it's what my issue is.
 

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