Track Rod end removal p38

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roybatty666

Member
Posts
18
Hi there

I have the classic shakes under hard braking from speed or going over bumps etc, not to menthion the wandering on my 60k p38. I have currently purchased the following to try and fixed the problem

Changed discs and pads
Blistine damper fitted
new Panhard bushes and bolts (to be fitted)
radius arm pushes and bolts (to be fitted)
new drag link and rod ends (to be fitted)
new steering rod and ends (to be fitted)
Steering box will have back lash removed

I purchased a radius arm bush tool and a bargin 10ton hydrolic press to do the bushes

My first stumbling block seems to be that I can't get a ball joint seperator that fits the range rover due the size and small gap between the joint and arm.

To save me buying my 3rd useless seperator can anyone point me to one that will fit? I am prefferably after a scissor type rather than a wedge and hammer job.

The LR manual helfully refers sp the tool as LRT-57-018
sods law after changing all this she will still do it lol

cheers for any help
 
have you tried just belting the side of it with a hammer? thats if yer can get a hammer in there.. If you can't find a scissor type splitter and yer getting desperate, as a last resort, you can borrow mine. but bear in mind am not the uk so postage will be a bit high
 
Wow that is a seriously kind offer chap

If you could just measure the gap between the splitter prongs that would help me narrow down what to buy rather than my current random atempts.

Is yours a wedge and hammer job or scissor type

cheers
 
i have both types but usually i just belt the side of the arm, the bit the BJ fits through, with a large sheffield fine adjuster.
slacken the nut but don't remove it. then get yourself and the steering arm into position so you can get a good swing at it. then blooter the arm as hard as you can .
as the BJ is a tapered fit the shock from the hammer should be enough to unseat it.

i'll dig me scissor type out and measure it for you tomorrow morning.
 
roybatty666 said:
Hi there

I have the classic shakes under hard braking from speed or going over bumps etc, not to menthion the wandering on my 60k p38. I have currently purchased the following to try and fixed the problem

Changed discs and pads
Blistine damper fitted
new Panhard bushes and bolts (to be fitted)
radius arm pushes and bolts (to be fitted)
new drag link and rod ends (to be fitted)
new steering rod and ends (to be fitted)
Steering box will have back lash removed

I purchased a radius arm bush tool and a bargin 10ton hydrolic press to do the bushes

My first stumbling block seems to be that I can't get a ball joint seperator that fits the range rover due the size and small gap between the joint and arm.

To save me buying my 3rd useless seperator can anyone point me to one that will fit? I am prefferably after a scissor type rather than a wedge and hammer job.

The LR manual helfully refers sp the tool as LRT-57-018

sods law after changing all this she will still do it lol

cheers for any help
Click to expand...
On my '97 4.6, I had some quite severe shakes under hard braking. I was at the garage the last time the diagnostic computer was hooked up. Turns out the ABS ECU had logged several 'intermittent sensor' faults for different wheels. So cleared the faults from ECU (-not sure if this is 100% needed though). Then got underneath and tapped all of the ABS sensors back into the hubs (- some were out by 2mm). Haven't had any troubles since (and have tried emergency braking from 70MPH/110KMH on the motorway, with no shaking!!). Definitely worth a try - two minutes underneath and free!! :)

I do still have a front end steering 'clonk' (- under near/max lock and when high speed cornering), but that's a different story (- that brought me here by chance). I'm currently looking into replacing the drag-link to fix that one...
 
i recently changed my track rod complete and drag link complete, the drivers side ball joint in the track rod end was seriously tight, i ended up putting trolley jack under either the thread or the rod, cant remember now and a few serious wallops with a standard hammer and it popped, along with my blood pressure, but it did work, had nearly the weight of the vehicle on it.....................
 
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