Towing a trailer - lockout the EAS?

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

MikeV8SE

New Member
Posts
1,771
Location
Bucks
Just a quickie - I am towing a 4 wheeled bike trailer this weekend, with 3 motorbikes + wheels and spares.

Should I lock out the EAS with the underseat switch so it doesn't lower at 50mph, or leave it be for increased stability at speed?

I looked in the manual and it says the lockout switch is there if you want to lock the suspension at a fixed height, e.g. when towing - but doesn't say you have to. Does it matter if its a 2 or 4 wheeled trailer or anything?

Thoughts please!
 
Always lock the EAS in standard when towing...

the effect of lowering will place instability into the towing 'train' through a varied angle in the tow hitch and CG of the trailer/vehicle combo....

This is even more important to maintain a set ride height with a 4-wheel trailer as the trailer axles have to remain horizontal at all times for safety and stability...the effect of lowering the vehicle will raise the rearmost axle of the trailer and overload the front axle and cause all sorts of driveability issues.

If you have a height adjustable tow hitch ensure you set it to the correct towing height for the trailer.

Not teaching you to suck eggs, so please do not see it this way, but do ensure you load the trailer evenly, and that you balance the trailer properly to ensure you do not exceed the 'Tongue Weight' which is the weight placed on the towball....I am pretty sure it is around the 75-100kg mark, anymore will cause the vehicle rear to sag and reduce the traction weight on the front steering axle....and less weight the rear will be lifted slightly reducing traction on the rear wheel again causing stability issues.
 
Last edited:
Thanks Saint - will look it at standard ride height, then! I take it the EAS still works and will just keep everything level but at standard height?

With regards to loading the trailer, how do you accurately measure the tongue weight?
 
If you have an old pair of scales (the type used to weigh yourself on) and the trailer has a dolly wheel, you can place the dolly wheel on the scales to weigh it with.

Failing that, depending on your musculature (no offence) if you can lift it with a bit amount of effort akin to lifting 5 or so car batteries (an average car battery weighs between 10-15 kilos) then you won't be to far wrong...also when the trailer is hitched up...stand back and view the 'train' from the side and gauge how the vehicle/trailer is sitting....

Found this, it may help:

Tongue weight is a towing* term, not something t*o do with the human mouth or dentistry. Tongue weight (TW) is just one of the many towing terms you'll need to familiarize yourself with if you ever intend to tow a trailer behind your vehicle. It's the downward force that the tongue of the* trailer applies to the hitch of the tow vehicle. Most experts agree that an acceptable tongue weight for any trailer is somewhere between 9 and 15 percent of the gross trailer weight (GTW). There's good reasoning behind these numbers, too. It all comes down to trailer towing safety.

Finding the tongue weight (TW) of any trailer can, at first, seem like a difficult task. Fine-tuning the tongue weight to fall within the 9- to 15-percent weight range of the gross trailer weight (GTW) might seem nearly impossible. You'll be happy to know that it doesn't have to be complicated at all.

Most trailer owners already know their gross trailer weight -- the actual weight of the trailer.

Knowing your gross trailer weight is critical to properly adjusting the tongue weight of your trailer. In fact, it's your starting point in a very simple equation.

As an example, let's say that your gross trailer weight is 564 pounds (256 kilograms). If you're trying to adjust your tongue weight to 11 percent of the gross trailer weight, then you want the tongue to weigh 62 (28 kilograms) pounds. Easy enough -- but how do you find out how much the tongue weighs right now?

Since this is a smaller trailer, you can measure the weight of the tongue using a standard bathroom scale. The trick is to make sure that the scale is at the same height as the hitch ball on the tow vehicle. Usually a small box or a cinder block will do the trick. Next, carefully place the tongue of the trailer directly on the scale and read the weight. This is your tongue weight.

If the tongue weight is more than 62 pounds (28 kilograms), then you need to move some of the trailer's cargo rearward so that more weight is carried behind the trailer's axle.

If the tongue weight is less than 62 pounds (28 kilograms), then you'll need to adjust some of the cargo toward the front of the trailer so more weight is carried in front of the trailer's axle.

Keep your eye on the scale and you should be able to hit the target tongue weight.
For much heavier trailers -- those with a tongue weight that would exceed the weight limit of a standard bathroom scale -- you need to employ a slightly different technique. There are two very good options available to you. First, you could purchase a tongue weight scale that's designed specifically to measure trailer tongue weights (up to one ton). Or, with a little extra effort and some additional setup time on your part, you can use the same standard bathroom scale.

To do this, you'll need a two-by-four cut to a five- or six-foot (1.5- or 1.8-meter) length, two pipes, your bathroom scale, and a brick. Lay one of the pipes across the scale and the other across the brick. Position the scale and the brick so the pipes are exactly three feet apart. Now, lay the two-by-four across the pipes, and find a suitable way to support the tongue of the trailer at the same height as the tow vehicle's hitch ball.

Place the tongue (and hitch-height support) on the two-by-four exactly 2 feet (0.6 meters) away from the pipe lying across the scale and 1 foot (0.3 meters) away from the pipe lying across the brick. Read the weight displayed on the scale, and then multiply the weight by three. This is your tongue weight. As with the method we used for the smaller trailer, you can adjust the weight of the cargo forward or rearward of the trailer axle to reach your target tongue weight. Just watch the scale -- and don't forget to multiply the displayed weight by three.

Calculating tongue weight isn't really that complex. In fact, with enough practice, you'll soon be a pro at finding tongue weight -- and the way your trailer handles on the road will reflect that.
 
Just a quickie - I am towing a 4 wheeled bike trailer this weekend, with 3 motorbikes + wheels and spares.

Should I lock out the EAS with the underseat switch so it doesn't lower at 50mph, or leave it be for increased stability at speed?

I looked in the manual and it says the lockout switch is there if you want to lock the suspension at a fixed height, e.g. when towing - but doesn't say you have to. Does it matter if its a 2 or 4 wheeled trailer or anything?

Thoughts please!

Deffo lock the suspension. You can buy jockey wheels with a built in weight guage:)
 
Agree with the above ! Although I don't have to remember as the l322 automatically locks it when you plug in a trailer ! Clever stuff
 
It has been knowns as Hitch Weight, Nose Weight, Ball Weight and Tongue Weight....

I believe Tongue Weight stems from years of old wihen cart horses were the towing vehicles of choice.

The strapping for the cart would be hitched to the horses bridle which when loaded would add weight to the 'bit' in the horses mouth. This had the effect of making it difficult for the horse to drink because it would hamper the horses tonuge. If you watch a horse fitted with bridle and bit drink the bit moves up and down due to the movement of the horses tongue, if there is to much forward weight on the cart the tongue would be effectivly pinned down....hence the term, becareful of the tonuge weight.

God I am sad, I know such pointless stuff...........

PS.... I do believe the quote was from an American site, but Tongue Weight is an Olde Englysh phrase I believe
 
Last edited:
It has been knowns as Hitch Weight, Nose Weight, Ball Weight and Tongue Weight....

I believe Tongue Weight stems from years of old wihen cart horses were the towing vehicles of choice.

The strapping for the cart would be hitched to the horses bridle which when loaded would add weight to the 'bit' in the horses mouth. This had the effect of making it difficult for the horse to drink because it would hamper the horses tonuge. If you watch a horse fitted with bridle and bit drink the bit moves up and down due to the movement of the horses tongue, if there is to much forward weight on the cart the tongue would be effectivly pinned down....hence the term, becareful of the tonuge weight.

God I am sad, I know such pointless stuff...........

PS.... I do believe the quote was from an American site, but Tongue Weight is an Olde Englysh phrase I believe

All women should be fitted with one then to stop them gossiping.
 
All women should be fitted with one then to stop them gossiping.

Tony, the man who invents that will be a billionaire in minutes !!!!:hysterically_laughi:hysterically_laughi


Bak to subject, yes, RR strongly recommend lock ride height at Standard whilst towing for stability.
 
I don't think you want to lock it out using the switch under the seat, as I remember that isolates the whole system, and you won't get the self levelling or any other benefits.

You just need to set the height lock (Can't remember the correct name, long time since I had a rangie) on the dash, so it doesn't self raise or lower, but will keep itself level.

MW
 
Back
Top