Tips on door removal?

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Steviecops

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Location
Colchester
Just getting my disco 1 ready for its MOT next week and have done two out of three bits of welding that it needed.
First was lower rear arch.

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Yesterday I patched up the rear outer arch at the top, where they all go. I welded under the arch and filled over the top in the door shut.

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Today I started preparing for what I think is the trickiest bit. The bottom of the offside a post. Removed the plastic sill cover and was pleasantly surprised to see the sill in very good nick.

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This what I've got to repair.

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Cleaned it up the best I could and treated it with anti rust, then fabricated a repair panel. (Copied from pictures on eBay!)

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To finish cleaning up and weld the repair piece I need to remove the drivers door. It looks simple enough in the Haynes manual, but does anyone have any words of advice, or warning, before I go ahead and take it off? Anything to look out for? Do they usually go back on alright, ie, no fiddly adjustment?

Any advice greatly appreciated :)

Thanks
Steve
 
in a nutshell. :)


I forgot ...

leccy bits ...

the electrics plug in just inside the 'A' post trim, 3 or 4 plugs that you can't mix up. you do have to feed the loom through both skins of the 'A' post though, it is grommeted in both skins....
 
I forgot ...

leccy bits ...

the electrics plug in just inside the 'A' post trim, 3 or 4 plugs that you can't mix up. you do have to feed the loom through both skins of the 'A' post though, it is grommeted in both skins....

yeh, that as well. ;) 4
 
Jobs done :)
Door wasnt too heavy and I lifted it off and on without any dramas. The only problem was when I tried to drive the pins out before realising that they don't come out! From start to finish, taking my time, door removal, cleaning up, welding, grinding, priming, painting and putting everything back together, took me 3 hours. Well pleased :)

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ImageUploadedByTapatalk1374669361.558898.jpg

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1374669415.259181.jpg

Job's a good 'un! :)
 
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