Timing belt install tips

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natas

natas

Well-Known Member
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Bahamas
Trying to raise the nerve to have my timing belt changed.
I have put about 30K miles on Pumkin and figure its about time.

I have all the parts including the upgrade kit, just in case.

Are there any tips for a mechanic that has never changed the timing belt on a Defender?
Should I be scared?

Thanks.
 
Not too hard just use the timing pins for flywheel and fuel pump, also make sure belt tensioner is located correctly on the pivot. Pulley bolt can be tricky.
 
I put my strong bar on to the passanger side ( mines right hand drive uk) chassis rail and flicked the starter and it undoes the big 27mm bolt on the pulley,

Once that's undone lock it all up with pins and away you go, oh and like Has been said, draw the timing case on a piece of card and put the bolts in it as there all different sizes,

When the belt doesn't fit, walk away have a drink try again it normally drops straight on,
 
I did my 300TDi belt 5-years ago and am about to do it again.

To make life easy I bought all the correct tools (timing pin kit, crankshaft locking tool & deflection torque-wrench for setting belt tension) and found that the Difflock guide was the most straight-forward to follow. I didn't bother trying to reach around the rad and just took it out so I had excellent access from the front (gives you a chance to flush the system anyway).

Simple enough job, start first thing and you will be done & dusted by lunchtime.
 
Undoing the pulley bolt- disconnect the fuel pump solenoid, wedge a breaker bar under the right hand side of the chassis, flick the starter a couple of times. That loosens it enough to undo.

Crankshaft pulley itself- mine was on so tight I thought it had rusted/jammed in place. Proper 3-legged puller took it off in about 10 seconds in the end.

Turning the crankshaft- I just put it in high range 5th, jacked up a front wheel and turned it.

Otherwise, just make sure to check everything twice as you go.
 
All good tips but no one has mentioned getting the pulley bolt tight enough again!
Hammer and spanner if no air tools available, then mark bolt head with paint and another line on the pulley, that way a quick visual will confirm nothing has moved.
 
Take your time, and don't have wife and kids around :)

Use tipex to mark position of pulleys, buy crank oil seals just in case, crank bolt can also be undone in first low box with a helper jamming a screw driver into timing hole in flywheel through the drain hole in the bell housing. You can also use a 9mm drill to block the injection pump & DO remember to take it out :eek:
 
Thanks so much for all the help, I think I will go ahead and order the tools needed to do the job proper.
As I will be keeping Pumkin forever I will be doing this again in another 30K or so.

Thanks again.
 
lynall said:
All good tips but no one has mentioned getting the pulley bolt tight enough again!
Hammer and spanner if no air tools available, then mark bolt head with paint and another line on the pulley, that way a quick visual will confirm nothing has moved.
Click to expand...

That is why I always maintain a crankshaft locking tool is better than a flick of the starter, it is one thing to undo it but it has to be torqued up very tight and the tool makes this a breeze.
 
To torque bolt up again what I usually do is, chock all wheels, apply hand brake, engage 5th gear, and torque up as per manual (I can't recall the figures). It's HARD but doable! A large breaker bar with a length of tube added to it helps (with the addition of a few obligatory swear words, grunts, groans, popped veins in your forehead and the de-rigeur aspirins to kill the headache that will follow)
 
"crank bolt can also be undone in first low box with a helper jamming a screw driver into timing hole in flywheel through the drain hole in the bell housing"

fock that for a game of sudjers.
 
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