timing belt help please 300tdi

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HI!

Pay VERY careful attention to the cam timing, the marks are hard to see from above and can be out by as much as a tooth, this WILL cause valves to just kiss the pistons, don't fret I have seen several do this and no damage resulted surprisingly:eek: The noise is like a ALL of your valve clearances being too loose, an obvious mechanical knocking similar to excessive timing advance.

Hope this helps.

JC
 
Best to take picture of cam timing on digi camera or phone-then you can look at marks on your pc-bit of tippex or white paint helps
 
discowayne said:
have u got this sorted ? if not i will be in cambridge over the weekend and can come and take a look if youd like
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hi and thank you sooo much but im waiting for a fuel injector pump which wont be here till next week as thats when the bad noise started so think its best to change that while its all stripped down :)
 
have a look on youtube type in 300 tdi timing belt. there's a real good video of a mechanic changing step by step the cambelt. It is out of the car and on a stand. But it's a good Idea to see exactly whats involved and how to do it. Even if you don't replace it yourself. You will have some Idea of how its done. If push rods are bent they are an easy job to do. You said your farther changed lift pump. Then he has enough experience to change the pushrods. Good luck fella hope you get it sorted. But you will need to learn to get your hands dirty. Owning a landrover you never stop. If it's not broke you then want to change things. It's a life .
 
sam260173 said:
hi and thank you sooo much but im waiting for a fuel injector pump which wont be here till next week as thats when the bad noise started so think its best to change that while its all stripped down :)
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When it is put back together ,make sure whoever does it, uses loctite on the crank bolt,so it stays done up tight-well done on your efforts so far.
 
John FHA said:
have a look on youtube type in 300 tdi timing belt. there's a real good video of a mechanic changing step by step the cambelt. It is out of the car and on a stand. But it's a good Idea to see exactly whats involved and how to do it. Even if you don't replace it yourself. You will have some Idea of how its done. If push rods are bent they are an easy job to do. You said your farther changed lift pump. Then he has enough experience to change the pushrods. Good luck fella hope you get it sorted. But you will need to learn to get your hands dirty. Owning a landrover you never stop. If it's not broke you then want to change things. It's a life .
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ty for the advice i will have a look just 1 thing im not a fella im a woman lol :D
 
Yeah you want the one that will undo again,cannot remember the number at the moment-you do not want the permanent one-good luck
 
Also when whoever refits the cam belt-make sure they use a six sided 10mm socket on the injection pump sprocket bolts(for adjusting)-these bolts are v tight,and regular 12 sided sockets or ring spanners may round them off
 
ok cool i will get down to wilco this morning to get some they should know what i need i hope :) im just praying that when i get the injector pump fitted and the timing checked properly that she runs and i dont have to get rid of her :( pump should be here today then just got to get it fitted im not even going to try that lol dads mate is doing it
 
i might be wrong but ive just looked at some pics of the timing and had a good look at mine and i think :confused: bottom pulley on crankshaft may be 1 tooth out but will need it to be looked at by someone who knows to confirm will keep u all updated :)
 
right update had dads mate over and the bottom crankshaft pulley that takes the timing belt is f***ed the bit that takes the woodruff key has a big lump missing so has slight play so new one on its way :)
 
No one has mentioned it yet, but that big bolt on the end of the crankshaft that holds the pulley on needs to be done up ridiculously tight, a standard socket wrench won't do it, needs a very long breaker bar and a method of locking the crankshaft.

There are numerous threads on here about what happens when it works loose.

Just by reading this thread I can tell you'e picking up the maximum info you can, I'm sure you'll have her running again soon, good luck.
 
davek0974 said:
No one has mentioned it yet, but that big bolt on the end of the crankshaft that holds the pulley on needs to be done up ridiculously tight, a standard socket wrench won't do it, needs a very long breaker bar and a method of locking the crankshaft.

There are numerous threads on here about what happens when it works loose.

Just by reading this thread I can tell you'e picking up the maximum info you can, I'm sure you'll have her running again soon, good luck.
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thank you for the info me and my dad are going to get the fuel injector pump fitted this weekend and leave the crank pulley replacement and the timing to a proper mechanic he only touched the crank pulley and said .... well this aint right b4 he had even took it off and looked at it so hopefully he will know what to do but i will be watching his every move and if needs be i will mention your comment above :) its just a case of waiting for this pulley to turn up and keeping everything crossed :)
 
sam260173 said:
thank you for the info me and my dad are going to get the fuel injector pump fitted this weekend and leave the crank pulley replacement and the timing to a proper mechanic he only touched the crank pulley and said .... well this aint right b4 he had even took it off and looked at it so hopefully he will know what to do but i will be watching his every move and if needs be i will mention your comment above :) its just a case of waiting for this pulley to turn up and keeping everything crossed :)
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All proper mechanics say that :rolleyes: :D
 
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