Time to galvanise?

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seanlandy

Active Member
Posts
288
Location
Cannock
Well, it's was that time of year all 90 owners fear with a mixture of dread and certainty. Certainty that the MOT will be failed and dread not knowing what it will fail on. Needless to say it failed. The front outriggers I knew about but all the other suspension mounting points........not so much so.

I have spent the last couple of years welding new rear spring mounts and rear outriggers and the odd patch here and there. This time, it seems like it is just too much. I know I could repair, but is it worth it? This has pretty much determined me to get a galvanised chassis, along with some Disco 1 axles for the better brakes etc and then renew whatever else needs doing. I am trying to convince myself that this is the best way forward for the long term, but as always would welcome any thoughts.
Cheers
 
Bodge it so its lasts the winter, then worry about it next year when the better weather gets here, gives you time to collect parts etc.
 
That was what I was thinking initially but the MOT chap is a mate and if he thinks it is woeful then it may not be worth it. Besides, do I really fancy rolling around in the cold under a 90...again.
 
See how long a chassis takes to arrive. Some time it’s 5 weeks.this gives you time to get new axles & strip the old motor down and stored ready to rebuild.
 
Winter months is great time for a project - might be cold but makes you work harder:)
I part striped mine to do bulkhead and another few jobs. Chassis is holed which could be repaired, but thought as I have part striped just to carry on and re-chassis.
So been researching over the summer months in back garden with beer in hand ready to get back into it.
 
That was what I was thinking initially but the MOT chap is a mate and if he thinks it is woeful then it may not be worth it. Besides, do I really fancy rolling around in the cold under a 90...again.

I meant really bodge it, weld it where it touches and filler the rest!
 
Well, it's was that time of year all 90 owners fear with a mixture of dread and certainty. Certainty that the MOT will be failed and dread not knowing what it will fail on. Needless to say it failed. The front outriggers I knew about but all the other suspension mounting points........not so much so.

I have spent the last couple of years welding new rear spring mounts and rear outriggers and the odd patch here and there. This time, it seems like it is just too much. I know I could repair, but is it worth it? This has pretty much determined me to get a galvanised chassis, along with some Disco 1 axles for the better brakes etc and then renew whatever else needs doing. I am trying to convince myself that this is the best way forward for the long term, but as always would welcome any thoughts.
Cheers
If you’re going to do a decent job then it’s going to be a significant investment of several £thousand. So, first question has to be, is it a keeper? If so, then it’ll be worth the investment.
I’m not as hard as my fellow Northerner @neilp1 and I wrapped mine up for two winters when I rebuilt mine.
 
If you’re going to do a decent job then it’s going to be a significant investment of several £thousand. So, first question has to be, is it a keeper? If so, then it’ll be worth the investment.
I’m not as hard as my fellow Northerner @neilp1 and I wrapped mine up for two winters when I rebuilt mine.

Not hard just daft! but I work outside anyway and have plenty padding.
 
I put a new chassis under my 1986 90 earlier this year (documented on here).
Had always said that I never wanted to weld a LR chassis again so decided that I would fit a new Richards chassis to my 90, have already owned it for 21yrs and the chassis was completely original but as I get older I thought if I was going to do it then I need to do it soon.

All the work was done outside plus I wanted to treat & paint the chassis so I decided on 1st April start (I have had enough of working in the cold & dark with numb fingers and artificial light), chassis and all other parts were ordered over the winter ready for the day I declared SORN. As it turned out we had a fairly mild / dry spring so work progressed really well with no breaks due to adverse weather conditions.
One thing I did do though was make sure that all major components were ready to be swopped over from one chassis to the next with no refurbishment necessary, of course many items were replaced at the same time (fuel-tank, wiring harness, brake-pipes etc) and new fixings were used throughout but the major components (bulkhead, axles, suspension, engine / transmission etc) had already been dealt with so no time was wasted and it all pressed on with few delays.

At the very end I cut up the original chassis ready for disposal and was quite surprised at just how solid it was, no rot and practically no corrosion but of course I wasn't to know that until each section was cut through.
 
All good advice. Thanks. I must look at your thread Litch.
Yes, it’s a keeper. So a chassis would be a worthwhile investment ..... I think.
A pity the garage is full of mini and kit car ir I would have somewhere to store things
You’re probably right get the chassis to where I can just swap bit. I think the plan would be get the Disco axles.( Am I right about these? Wider track, disc brakes front and rear, no swivel hubs and a better axle ratio? ) then get the axles on the all the links then move stuff across
How does that sound?
There is a chap up the road who I saw put a new galv chassis on so need to knock his door
Why did you go for Richards over a Marsland as a matter of interest?
 
Disco rear axle is usually fitted to give discs instead of drums (early pre-Defender models) and also to allow stock alloys to be fitted without the need to use spacers (wider radius-arms required at front). Same swivels, track & ratios.
Looked at both but just decided on Richards.
 
Interesting, thanks. Mine has spacers front and rear, so it would be nice to get away from them as they are a pain every time you want to do anything with the hubs. Front disco axles are vented discs, too, if I remember correctly, but it was a while ago since I had mine.
Was there a particular reason for the Richards then? I know there is a difference in cost, but in the scheme of things, I wouldn't explect that to be the final deciding factor.
I am trying to work out where I can put may landy bits as i dismantle. Without the wife killing me that is.
 
Replacement outriggers are readily available and not too expensive, though pointless if the main box sections are rotted.
I would inspect thoroughly before lashing out on a complete replacement. Litch's earlier post, where he discovered his old chassis was relatively sound, is salutary.
My 1991 110 is fine though I have squirted Waxoil and sump oil in every crevice for the last 25 years!
I did replace the near side front outrigger 15 years ago.
Like myself, I am conscious that Defenders are not immortal and am of the "if it ain't broke, don't mend it" persuasion but do jump on any problem as soon as it surfaces. On that basis I'm just going to keep on driving it until one of us drops!
If your vehicle is rotten then I applaud your action of taking the long term view and doing the proper job you envisage.
Anyway, whatever you decide good luck and have fun!
 
Thanks for the replies. If my mate says it would be a pain then I think that points the way towards a chassis.
He like I was surprised how bad is has got in a year. Last few years with repairs mentioned and check for patches last year. Oh well. Best get saving. They ain't cheap.
 
Well, it's was that time of year all 90 owners fear with a mixture of dread and certainty. Certainty that the MOT will be failed and dread not knowing what it will fail on. Needless to say it failed. The front outriggers I knew about but all the other suspension mounting points........not so much so.

I have spent the last couple of years welding new rear spring mounts and rear outriggers and the odd patch here and there. This time, it seems like it is just too much. I know I could repair, but is it worth it? This has pretty much determined me to get a galvanised chassis, along with some Disco 1 axles for the better brakes etc and then renew whatever else needs doing. I am trying to convince myself that this is the best way forward for the long term, but as always would welcome any thoughts.
Cheers

2 years ago my bulkhead split down the passenger side. I bought a galved one and had saved up for replacing all 5 doors (110 CSW). I started stripping it, and got down to the chassis (I wanted a colour change anyway), but found the chassis was rotten. I went with a Shielder Chassis originally (worst mistake I made), after being messed around for 6 weeks, I got the bank involved and got my money back, then had an offer of a Marsland chassis at a REALLY good price, so I jumped on it. The problem here was that I now had the Defender ready to be rebuilt, but no chassis to build onto. I would advise getting the axles and refurbing them while the chassis is on order, then build up a rolling chassis. Once that’s done, go for it and strip yours and rebuild. Mine hadn’t failed it’s MOT on rust, and my chassis wasn’t too bad in the grand scheme of things, but it was the right thing to do. Only you know what is best for you, but I have around £10K in my rebuild, without the purchase cost of the Defender originally.
 
That seems like wise words. Looking back at any earlier reply, is it even worth getting the Disco 1 axles if the only advantage is that it means doing away with the spacers and having rear discs. If not then I may just as well stay with what I have and refurb them. Had meant to do the swivel hubs this year anyway. Or am I missing something?
All I need to do now is find a chassis as a reasonable price. It would appear that on balance a Marsland one would be the way to go.
 
That seems like wise words. Looking back at any earlier reply, is it even worth getting the Disco 1 axles if the only advantage is that it means doing away with the spacers and having rear discs. If not then I may just as well stay with what I have and refurb them. Had meant to do the swivel hubs this year anyway. Or am I missing something?
All I need to do now is find a chassis as a reasonable price. It would appear that on balance a Marsland one would be the way to go.

I went for the Marsland Chassis for two reasons, first was cost, second was it’s a genuine GKN chassis.

As for the axles, other than discs, I don’t know if they offer any advantage. I would stick to what you have and make sure they are the best they can be.
 
Well, it's was that time of year all 90 owners fear with a mixture of dread and certainty. Certainty that the MOT will be failed and dread not knowing what it will fail on. Needless to say it failed. The front outriggers I knew about but all the other suspension mounting points........not so much so.

I have spent the last couple of years welding new rear spring mounts and rear outriggers and the odd patch here and there. This time, it seems like it is just too much. I know I could repair, but is it worth it? This has pretty much determined me to get a galvanised chassis, along with some Disco 1 axles for the better brakes etc and then renew whatever else needs doing. I am trying to convince myself that this is the best way forward for the long term, but as always would welcome any thoughts.
Cheers
If you are going to keep it then go for it, even to be honest if you are going to sell it one day it is still worth it especially if you do the work yourself.

I'd bodge it through this MOT and get into it come spring or accept she needs to got VOR now and that is it - if it snows you will be sad though!
 
I finally got the back end off to reveal what I thought was likely. Yep, lots of rust and holes in difficult to access places. So, although it is always repairable, I think the bullet will have to be well and truly bit and look for a galv chassis in earnest. With Craddocks 5 mins away, I may see what options they have first, that is if there is anyone serving. ;)
 
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