which is why I said "there are ways" to lock the taper before winding a nyloc on. Even before the days of hexes in the end of the threaded end.
DefenderDunno what Disco you've got if indeed it is a Disco but on my Disco 2 my nearside rear shock top bolt started going round and round, I thort "It'll be OK". after 6 months in Frogland, got to channel port after hearing clunking noise, had a look, sho nuff the bolt had fellen oot.
So back in blighty fitted a longer bolt and then a lock nut on the end, flipping fiddly but it's been OK ever since.
Yes with regards to my rear shocks.
I love idea of actooly giving a poop about the cost of split pins as opposed to nuts!!!
So was it you or @kevstar who advocated the counting of the times used?
I'm getting befuddled!!
Which bit is rubbish exactly?
In the past I have found that if you load the joint either with the weight of the vehicle or with clamps etc you can get the taper to grip to the point that you can tighten the nut..
Many ways to do the same job.
Not everyone has a “whizz up“ impact gun so all I’ve ever done in the past before impact guns is a light hammer tap to lock the taper and then used a standard socket and ratchet then my torque wrench … job done.
I suppose if you own an impact gun you must find ways of using it or then its a waste of money
Yer but.....I int a poooofy poof.Still a poof with out the impact gun
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