Thoughts and ideas on how to get the best out of series 3. 2/4 diesel

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88"short

88"short

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Location
South Cumbria
My series 3 has just failed its MOT on emissions and i was thinking how I could improve this whilst improving its performance.
I've just replaced the oil filter and oil with new quality oil and replaced the diesel fuel fitter.
I'm probably not the first to of thought of this and I know it sounds crazy, however was wondering what would happen if I was to connect the air hose with a new type of air filter directly to the heater blower fan pipe bypassing the heater. Obviously this would compromise the heater workings but would it help the engine by using the blower to blow more cold air into the engine? Thoughts?
 
Last edited:
Make sure it is serviced regularly and running at it's optimum before making any 'upgrades'. It's still a series landy at the end of the day, not a Porsche. It might be easier and cheaper to fit a more powerful engine. 2.5 N/A and T/D engines from the later 90/110's. V8's and the TDi engines have also been fitted.
 
88"short said:
My series 3 has just failed its MOT on emissions and i was thinking how I could improve this whilst improving its performance.
I've just replaced the oil filter and oil with new quality oil and replaced the diesel fuel fitter.
I'm probably not the first to of thought of this and I know it sounds crazy, however was wondering what would happen if I was to connect the air hose with a new type of air filter directly to the heater blower fan pipe bypassing the heater. Obviously this would compromise the heater workings but would it help the engine by using the blower to blow more cold air into the engine? Thoughts?
Click to expand...

The rubber belt of the 2,5 makes it not a super choice though.
Look at improving the 2.25. Injection timing can make the most difference. Wear in the bush below the pump, the screw gear and in the timing chain will add up to a great loss. Replace the timing chain alone could make a big difference. The injection timing can also be advanced by turning the fuel pump on its three mounting studs. One way advances, the other retards. If the engine has been got at in the past, you'll probably find the pump is Hard Up against the slots holding the pump. This is were a well hidden Bronze bush that supports the fuel pump could be partly to blame.

But for further advance and finer tuning, the camshaft drive wheel can be removed, then rotated on the splines, to gain/lose a few degrees. I suggest you look at a detailed workshop manual and it'll give you all the details you need. Of course pistons, rings, valve seats and ensuring sufficient fuel is reaching the engine is a good start. Have you got a good workshop manual ?
 
88"short said:
My series 3 has just failed its MOT on emissions and i was thinking how I could improve this whilst improving its performance.
I've just replaced the oil filter and oil with new quality oil and replaced the diesel fuel fitter.
I'm probably not the first to of thought of this and I know it sounds crazy, however was wondering what would happen if I was to connect the air hose with a new type of air filter directly to the heater blower fan pipe bypassing the heater. Obviously this would compromise the heater workings but would it help the engine by using the blower to blow more cold air into the engine? Thoughts?
Click to expand...
no apart from doing a thorough service its probably worn
 
88"short said:
My series 3 has just failed its MOT on emissions and i was thinking how I could improve this whilst improving its performance.
I've just replaced the oil filter and oil with new quality oil and replaced the diesel fuel fitter.
I'm probably not the first to of thought of this and I know it sounds crazy, however was wondering what would happen if I was to connect the air hose with a new type of air filter directly to the heater blower fan pipe bypassing the heater. Obviously this would compromise the heater workings but would it help the engine by using the blower to blow more cold air into the engine? Thoughts?
Click to expand...

Just make sure it is running right, what you are suggesting will probably reduce performance.

Service it fully, new filters, check air hoses and renew if needed. Set the tappets. Get an injector service, and the fuel pump checked, and make sure pump timing is as good as you can get it.

If it still wont pass emissions,valve grind, and or a rebore and pistons may be needed.

They are quite adequate if well set up and looked after. If not, 2.5 NA is a good option, it will need to be well set up too, the rubber belts are not a problem if changed at the right intervals, and no oil leaks contaminating the belt.
 
Dragonwalker said:
The rubber belt of the 2,5 makes it not a super choice though.
Look at improving the 2.25. Injection timing can make the most difference. Wear in the bush below the pump, the screw gear and in the timing chain will add up to a great loss. Replace the timing chain alone could make a big difference. The injection timing can also be advanced by turning the fuel pump on its three mounting studs. One way advances, the other retards. If the engine has been got at in the past, you'll probably find the pump is Hard Up against the slots holding the pump. This is were a well hidden Bronze bush that supports the fuel pump could be partly to blame.

But for further advance and finer tuning, the camshaft drive wheel can be removed, then rotated on the splines, to gain/lose a few degrees. I suggest you look at a detailed workshop manual and it'll give you all the details you need. Of course pistons, rings, valve seats and ensuring sufficient fuel is reaching the engine is a good start. Have you got a good workshop manual ?
Click to expand...
Thanks for this, I'll have a check around the engine. I only have a Haynes manual and what I've heard there not the best guide book to have.
 
88"short said:
I know their not the best of engines, worn is a possibility.
Click to expand...

Later ones are actually ok, but most have done massive mileages, and not all been looked after.

They are very rebuildable, and not a fortune either. Or you can look around for a better one, still quite a few around, but don't expect a good one for peanuts.
 
I rebuilt my 2.5 na. 12months prior I was a mechanical newbie. Injection pump and injectors got done by diesel specialist, rebore, crank and pistons by engine shop. Cost a bit but worth it. If money is an issue I can echo all above. Possibly new chain, loads of effort on getting timing and valve clearances perfect.

I timed the injection pump using the timing pin. You'll be surprised how much improvement you get with valve clearances being spot on, I went Ott and used a dial gauge and both a 0.25 and 0.28 feeler guages to make sure I had the peak and gap perfect.
 
cornish rattler said:
TDI it and be done with it you will never go back to a std engine again
Click to expand...

If you are reasonably mechanically competent, a standard engine is perfectly adequate for a series.

Tdi are ok in the application they are meant for, but covered in German bits, ruins a proper series. And a lot of work in the conversion.
 
Even at idle, tghe engine is breathing many many many litres of air, while the heater fan moves only a tiny faction of that in the same time. It is more likely to hinder the engine than even have no effect at all
 
Whilst it failed on emissions, did the garage offer any indication as to why it failed? Some of the older models just require a visual test where as later ones (post 1979??) like mine are required to pass a measured test. If it failed a visual test, was it blue, white or black smoke. What does it smell like.
Where was the test done? Are they familiar with old diesel emission requirement? Is this your usual garage? How many miles have you done since the last MOT?

Lots of questions but this may help deciding upon where to fettle first.
 
I will second all Land Raver says...if its pre 79 is a very basic just rev it up and look at the exhaust pipe for to much smoke.
Should be NO test probe in the exhaust.

Does it throw out much smoke????
 
I think it's a shame that series owners stick a TDI engine in at the first sign of serious trouble. If you want a modern engine buy a modern car. The effort and cost of replacing the original with a modern engine is probably no less than having the old motor overhauled and given a new lease of life. I'm not a rivet counter in the slightest. But I do find it disappointing that so many series owners try to make their vehicle something it was never designed to be.

Col
 
I went to Blackpool yesterday in Henry and his old two and a quarter diesel bumbled along the motorway for 60 miles with no issues at all. I didn't go over 50mph but if I had wanted to get there quicker I would have taken the car.
Nowt rong wiya diesel. And stand over the twonk in the MOT station. They rarely know how to test a series until pointed in the right direction.
My tester is a diamond however and rarely guesses how it should be done. He just phones me and asks now.
 
Colthebrummie said:
I think it's a shame that series owners stick a TDI engine in at the first sign of serious trouble. If you want a modern engine buy a modern car. The effort and cost of replacing the original with a modern engine is probably no less than having the old motor overhauled and given a new lease of life. I'm not a rivet counter in the slightest. But I do find it disappointing that so many series owners try to make their vehicle something it was never designed to be.

Col
Click to expand...
I agree to an extent I've tdi'd my 109 because my Land Rover is used for its original purpose. It tows, it carries it goes off road. Unfortunately towing 1500kg with a 2.25 diesel 109 is just not suitable for modern traffic conditions anymore.

Tip for the OP is the best thing you can do is accept it for what it is. I had mine in standard form for 3 years and I did my conversion so that an original engine could just be thrown back in in a day. My vehicle was so unoriginal when I bought it that an engine swap didn't bother me. If you can't accept the engine then change it or buy a different car.
 
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