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I find the Crab type best - esp in tight spaces
+1^I use an oil spanner - it's simple, cheap and although it's a Britpart (DA1117), it does work and is still in one piece !
Also, go easy with the bolts for the centrifugal filter cover as they are know to strip the threads on the housing.
Have you used it for OEM filters like Mahle, Bosch or Mann? For me it never fit.
Have you used it for OEM filters like Mahle, Bosch or Mann? For me it never fit.
The top one on the picture is for probably for OEMs (but even in the outside diam of filter can be slight diff. which can be a problem of using such spanner) and the bottom one for genuine.
View attachment 227511
Quite, which is why I have done my own maintenance since 1973!Agree, not difficult to loosen/remove cartridge filter by hand and replace by hand - just need to have a cool engine! Never had any issues with leaks! Only issue is if someone else puts it on they may over-tighten with a clamp.
Did you READ the first post?What’s hard about this ??? Oil and fuel filter change on a TD5 are as easy as they come.
I did and seen the photo.Did you READ the first post?
What’s hard about this ??? Oil and fuel filter change on a TD5 are as easy as they come.
Quite simply I could not believe that a guy who is happy to remove a turbo could possibly think that getting to a simple service item like an oil filter could possibly be so difficult.I did and seen the photo.
I know what JM's answer to this is cos he's already posted it. Helicoils. But as you have to drill it out to put helicoils in, you might as well just do as you say re the wider thread. Then use Coppaslip to make sure the thread doesn't strip again.Unless you have aircon and the PO stripped the threads on the centrifugal filter housing and secured it with nuts underneath........then it becomes really tricky.
Question is - do I leave as is and just put up with it, do I re-tap to a wider thread, or do I bite the bullet and replace the housing? If the latter, anyone know a good source?
But if it got worse I think I'd try the nut on the end of a longer bolt method first, maybe securing it with liquid metal.
Probably, I haven't Googled it, but i have used JB Weld to mend the special clips or whatever they are called which are used together with bolts to hold the auto box sump on. Just a smear did the job . There was no other way of sourcing spares. My local Motabitz has some other stuff which looks amazing and i may use it to make new bits to fix Wifeys's electric window mechanism to replace the cr@p plastic bits that always break. The only important thing is to get the two surfaces really clean and a bit rough. Id get the housing etc off, clean the whole thing up sand or file the area around where the nut would sit and do the same to the side of the nut that would be stuck to the housing. Clean it up again. Find a long enough bolt, on the end of the it, to stop the JB weld accidentally sticking the nut to the bolt, put a git of grease or Coppaslip . Then mix up and smearthe JB Weld on the housing where the nut will be touching. Before putting the whole thing together until the JB weld goes off. It doesn't take long. Be aware , i haven't yet needed to do this, but it would be how i'd do it. But there is still the possibility of drilling out and threading the holes to accomodate a bigger bolt, as mentioned earlier, which would be neater, maybe.That is an interesting idea, I had not considered fixing the nut in place. Is this the stuff you mean?
Sealey SCS380 Quick-Set Liquid Metal
The PO of my truck stripped the threads too. I had thought, at the next oil/filter change, to "glue" (JB Weld or whatever) an M6 stud into the housing and use a nut, nylock maybe, on top.I know what JM's answer to this is cos he's already posted it. Helicoils. But as you have to drill it out to put helicoils in, you might as well just do as you say re the wider thread. Then use Coppaslip to make sure the thread doesn't strip again.
Of the two bolts, I have one where the thread is OK and another where it is a bit dodgy. for the moment I am living with it.
But if it got worse I think I'd try the nut on the end of a longer bolt method first, maybe securing it with liquid metal.
I too have aircon.
Any second hand housing would probably have the same problem.
So yes, it is a dilemma!
The PO of my truck stripped the threads too. I had thought, at the next oil/filter change, to "glue" (JB Weld or whatever) an M6 stud into the housing and use a nut, nylock maybe, on top.
As i have not needed to do it yet, I hope the existing bolt is long enough, but if it ain't getting a longer one shouldn't be difficult.Combining Stanleysteamer's original idea and PopPop's development, I guess the easy way to do this will be to invert the existing bolt and JBWeld it to the bottom part of the housing pointing upwards. Then I just use an appropriate nut on top of the housing. I'm more likely to get a decent secure "weld" and there is no longer any risk of stripping the thread. Not a pretty solution, but practical.
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