Disco 2 This is where the Oil Filter is?!

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I know that my existing bolts are long enough as they already have nuts on the end. I doubt that they are original though, a PO will have put longer ones in to take the nuts after he stripped the threads.
 
I have to say I haven't actually tried it yet (I couldn't face trying to get the nut on the bolt again!) and I assume there is enough space - I would hate someone to glue 2 studs in and then find there's not enough clearance to get the cover over!:eek::eek: I wouldn't be very popular. My next filter change is about 9 months away.
 
The PO stripped the threads on mine too, such a pain in the arse!

He monstered the fuel filter on too!!

SU5RFfrl.jpg


Practlically had to mangle the old one too come off, also note the COIL SPRING!

Horrible thing, PO fitted cheap rear springs to it, so it has a nice sag in the back end!

Give me EAS anyday!! ;)
 
Henry_b said:
The PO stripped the threads on mine too, such a pain in the arse!

He monstered the fuel filter on too!!

SU5RFfrl.jpg


Practlically had to mangle the old one too come off, also note the COIL SPRING!

Horrible thing, PO fitted cheap rear springs to it, so it has a nice sag in the back end!

Give me EAS anyday!! ;)
Click to expand...
Did you buy it cheap?;)
springs on mine, 5 seater, are fine. 165K and lots of it towing. Mind you they are prolly original.;)
 
Henry_b said:
PO fitted cheap rear springs to it, so it has a nice sag in the back end!
Give me EAS anyday!! ;)
Click to expand...

Unless you are planning on extended overlanding to remote places and reliability is essential, I would agree. However, with the right weight of spring, the day to day disadvantages of having springs is minimal IMHO. My ES started life with EAS and ACE, but has been on Terrafirma shocks and springs with decent anti-roll bars since 2016 and I am very happy with it. It handles well and has a decent ride on road, performs well off road and tows without any issues

It already has a roof tent and some serious tree sliders; HD bumpers will be going on this summer and the back end will gain a fridge and storage system at which point I will need to upgrade to HD springs and I might put a 2" lift on at the same time.
 
Henry_b said:
The PO stripped the threads on mine too, such a pain in the arse!
Click to expand...

I'm not so sure that so many POs strip the threads. Isn't it that a steel bolt and aluminium housing corrodes, evectively turning the threads to dust? When you try to take the bolt out, the threads are gone and the PO gets the blame.

Si, looks like you're doing that fuel filter up!
 
Si Click said:
Unless you are planning on extended overlanding to remote places and reliability is essential, I would agree. However, with the right weight of spring, the day to day disadvantages of having springs is minimal IMHO. My ES started life with EAS and ACE, but has been on Terrafirma shocks and springs with decent anti-roll bars since 2016 and I am very happy with it. It handles well and has a decent ride on road, performs well off road and tows without any issues

It already has a roof tent and some serious tree sliders; HD bumpers will be going on this summer and the back end will gain a fridge and storage system at which point I will need to upgrade to HD springs and I might put a 2" lift on at the same time.
Click to expand...
So glad that someone has come on here and egsplained that a Disco 2 on decent springs is fine.
Cos it is!
and LR designed it to be so.
and anyone with a bit of research can easily remove the Ace as well and replace it with proper old skool anti-roll bars.
ALL of which can hardly go wrong.
You only have to se the plethora of posts on here about the ACE. And often the expensive involved in fixing it!
 
Alpinejim said:
I'm not so sure that so many POs strip the threads. Isn't it that a steel bolt and aluminium housing corrodes, evectively turning the threads to dust? When you try to take the bolt out, the threads are gone and the PO gets the blame.

Si, looks like you're doing that fuel filter up!
Click to expand...
If only the first ever time that the bolts were taken out, the mechanic would just use some feckin Copaslip, or even grease!
Don't they teach that at mechanicing skool?
 
Alpinejim said:
I'm not so sure that so many POs strip the threads. Isn't it that a steel bolt and aluminium housing corrodes, evectively turning the threads to dust? When you try to take the bolt out, the threads are gone and the PO gets the blame.

Si, looks like you're doing that fuel filter up!
Click to expand...

Not my fuel filter; that is Henry_b's.

You could well be right about the reason for stripped threads. All the evidence I have points to both the POs of my D2 having spent a lot of time and money on it, so I'm probably being unfair to them.
 
Stanleysteamer said:
If only the first ever time that the bolts were taken out, the mechanic would just use some feckin Copaslip, or even grease!
Don't they teach that at mechanicing skool?
Click to expand...

I'm not sure that they do anymore. The routine use of anti-seize compounds seems to have become controversial and unless the repair guide specifically calls for it I have been told that most dealers teach their staff not to apply it. Certainly where torque settings are critical it can be a problem unless a second torque setting is quoted that allows for anti-seize. Copper grease can also degrade rubber components, so you do need to be careful where you use it.
 
Si Click said:
Not my fuel filter; that is Henry_b's.

You could well be right about the reason for stripped threads. All the evidence I have points to both the POs of my D2 having spent a lot of time and money on it, so I'm probably being unfair to them.
Click to expand...
So you are only the third owner?
Did you buy it a long time ago?
Mine had good service history, but it still had quite a few owners.
My D1 only had 2 previous owners and in both cases I think the service history helped quite a bit. I read about all the sh!t other owners go through and although I have had my fair share, I don't think I've had it as bad as others..........yet!
I touch wood!
but having to take the auto box off to fix a leak is going to swing things the other way, a bit!
 
Si Click said:
I'm not sure that they do anymore. The routine use of anti-seize compounds seems to have become controversial and unless the repair guide specifically calls for it I have been told that most dealers teach their staff not to apply it. Certainly where torque settings are critical it can be a problem unless a second torque setting is quoted that allows for anti-seize. Copper grease can also degrade rubber components, so you do need to be careful where you use it.
Click to expand...
I was aware of the torque setting issue, and allow for it, but thanks for the heads up about rubber, although I am usually bloody careful where i put it as i don't want it picking up grit, or staining clothes, overalls etc!
 
Stanleysteamer said:
So you are only the third owner?
Did you buy it a long time ago?
Mine had good service history, but it still had quite a few owners.
Click to expand...

It was bought either new or very early on by the CEO of Western Towing who seems to have used it to support the business and maintained it very well for most of its life, including regular waxoyling. In 2016 at 95,000 miles he had the engine professionally rebuilt, performance intercooler, silicone hoses, snorkel, Alive remap etc and removed the EAS and ACE. I have bills for around £8K for the work done. For whatever reason he then sold it a year later for a fraction of that.
The next owner could not get on with the remapped power delivery through the auto box (which was indeed truly awful) and replaced it with an L322, selling it to me at 105,000 miles for what he paid for it.
Almost my first action was to have a V8 torque converter fitted using the Ashcroft adapter kit. Now it drives really nicely with the bigger torque converter able to transmit the power to the wheels at lower rpm, rather than just revving the engine to little effect.
 
Si Click said:
It was bought either new or very early on by the CEO of Western Towing who seems to have used it to support the business and maintained it very well for most of its life, including regular waxoyling. In 2016 at 95,000 miles he had the engine professionally rebuilt, performance intercooler, silicone hoses, snorkel, Alive remap etc and removed the EAS and ACE. I have bills for around £8K for the work done. For whatever reason he then sold it a year later for a fraction of that.
The next owner could not get on with the remapped power delivery through the auto box (which was indeed truly awful) and replaced it with an L322, selling it to me at 105,000 miles for what he paid for it.
Almost my first action was to have a V8 torque converter fitted using the Ashcroft adapter kit. Now it drives really nicely with the bigger torque converter able to transmit the power to the wheels at lower rpm, rather than just revving the engine to little effect.
Click to expand...

I had to buy mine in a hurry, due to a health issue, but at least was fairly lucky.
Yours sounds really nice.:):):)
 
Stanleysteamer said:
I had to buy mine in a hurry, due to a health issue, but at least was fairly lucky.
Yours sounds really nice.:):):)
Click to expand...

Thanks, I spent a long time looking and saw an awful lot of rusty crap with big price tags. The major selling point for me was the condition of the chassis, and having just had it professionally dinitrol treated by Flatdog, I'm content that it will stay good for a fair few years before it needs attention again.
 
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