Marmaduke
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 9,773
- Location
- Near the land of 'Me Duck'
I'm sure if you buy a bearing kit some come supplied with new bolts with thread lock pre-applied
This happened today when i was driving, what can i do
- Thread starter harrytooth
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Scooby22
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 1,248
- Location
- County Durham
Invest in a torque wrench and use thread lock, over-tightening will stretch the bolts resulting in risk of them snapping, which looks like what has happened to yours, tighten to correct torque setting.
Looks like they have just worked loose and fallen out rather than snapped as there are holes in the hub rather than remnants of bolt. If this is the case I would clean, test fit to make sure secure in the hole as previously mentioned and then refit to the correct torque.
Scooby22
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 1,248
- Location
- County Durham
Looks like a snapped bolt sat on the wheel rim in the photos.
doriz
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 17,312
So who has popped out and visually inspected or backed off and re torqued theirs?
You are right, I had not noticed that before I was loking at the hub. If that is one of the bolts they have definitely snapped. And from experience, after snapping one trying to remove it, thay are a pig to drill out. I managed to destroy a set of drill bits that cost more than a new hub trying and then gave up and bought a new hub!
Not me, mine are correctly torqued and thread locked
Having had a second look at the picture I'm wondering if they are (were) the correct bolts. Normally the plain shank of a bolt crosses the joint of the two parts being held together (in this case the hub and drive member). It looks like the shank on the sheared bolt is too short to do that as all the shank would all be inside the drive member so that it would be the threads crossing the joint. Just wondering if they may have been bolts for a 'thin' drive member rather than a 'thick' one (not sure if they are different)?
Scooby22
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 1,248
- Location
- County Durham
Also looking at wheel nuts in photo with thread showing, Wonder if there is a spacer behind wheel, I have always been taught that a nut should not have any thread showing and stud or bolt should protrude at least one thread out of the nut.
Last edited:
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 91,879
- Location
- louth lincs
they are a different bolt,though look the same unless you have 2 next to each other
ogb
Active Member
- Posts
- 289
- Location
- Moray, NE Scotland
Dunno if I've misunderstood, but did ALL the bolts part company with the flange? If so I'm surprised the OP didn't notice something amiss - a loose set of flange bolts will allow all that oil and grease to plaster the wheel long before they "work themselves out".
- Posts
- 83,289
- Location
- Embasinga stocæ
Ye
Yep you should normally have one thread protruding for it to be in safety, certainly worth a second look!
- Posts
- 83,289
- Location
- Embasinga stocæ
i was always taught 3 threads showing.
1 thread clear is standard aerospace requirement, good enough for that, then its good enough for me.
- Posts
- 68,238
- Location
- The Wooly Witch
So, we have at least one sheared bolt and some grease and gasket on the loose ...what's the other side like ?
One side will 'tighten with rotation' the other 'loosen' ...
One side will 'tighten with rotation' the other 'loosen' ...
- Posts
- 68,238
- Location
- The Wooly Witch
Three threads is automotive racing equivalent ...
tottot
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 8,044
- Location
- west wales coast
Some replacement whees have thicker steel in their centers and so studs are then not long enough.
