harrytooth
Member
- Posts
- 84
- Location
- sussex
This happened today when i was driving, what can i do
- Thread starter harrytooth
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Marmaduke
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 9,773
- Location
- Near the land of 'Me Duck'
I'd pull the whole axle out to check for spline damage, if there isn't any then five new bolts and a good clean up are in order
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 9,336
- Location
- South London/North Kent
Bit of a worry! Front or rear?
If the rear I would pull the shaft out and check the splines for any damage. If its the front should be fine.
I would use new bolts and get a new gasket while your at it, I'd also torque them up correctly and check the rest of the bolts arnt loose too.
If the rear I would pull the shaft out and check the splines for any damage. If its the front should be fine.
I would use new bolts and get a new gasket while your at it, I'd also torque them up correctly and check the rest of the bolts arnt loose too.
harrytooth
Member
- Posts
- 84
- Location
- sussex
Thanks for your help, i will look
Marmaduke
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 9,773
- Location
- Near the land of 'Me Duck'
If it's the front then he's proper goosed cos the cv joint has collapsed
Marmaduke
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 9,773
- Location
- Near the land of 'Me Duck'
I'm guessing 10 spline rear axle cos 24 spline don't have those robber cap jobbers
harrytooth
Member
- Posts
- 84
- Location
- sussex
yes its the rear axle
Marmaduke
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 9,773
- Location
- Near the land of 'Me Duck'
If the worst come to the worst rear half shafts aren't that expensive
doriz
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 17,312
That is the million dollar question, and somewhat worrying?
nesponge
Active Member
- Posts
- 487
- Location
- Northumberland
If the threads got covered in grease during the last bearing inspection, it can prevent them from tightening up properly as it creates a "cushion" effect.
I've seen half shaft bolts come loose after a dozen miles due to this, despite being tightened with an impact gun.
I've seen half shaft bolts come loose after a dozen miles due to this, despite being tightened with an impact gun.
tottot
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 8,139
- Location
- west wales coast
With a new bolt, screw it all the way in then back a couple of turns, waggle the bolt side to side up and down. There should be little or no movement. Do each hole in turn [ no flange on ] and should you find movement then a new hub is recomended.
If bolts are loose for some time the holes/threads can wear and even when tightened will work their way out again.
If bolts are loose for some time the holes/threads can wear and even when tightened will work their way out again.
sp00k
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 1,530
- Location
- Washington, County Durham, UK
Are you supposed to loctite them?
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 91,879
- Location
- louth lincs
yes loctite, they shouldnt be over tight else they snap
James is as usual correct. Not sure what model but a series drive flange has fine thread bolts that should be torqued to 34lb/sq inch. For normal peeps that's quite manually tight but not so your going to have a hernia tightening. I doubt vibration did that more likely loosely tighted bolts.
Same here, smear of copper grease ad then torqued correctly. Never had one come loose, but a friend did in the desert in morocco. Thank fully noticed before the bolts were lost so a quick clean and re tighten got us to the end of the trail.
Definitely check the holes, as if they have worked looses because the threaded holes are worn then you will need a new hub.
zeaphod
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 3,108
- Location
- Belfast, Norn Iron
Pretty sure mine have spring washers.
Don't think you should be lubricating the threads on these bolts, if anything they should be degreased (including the bolt hole) and have thread locking compound applied. Greasing a bolt thread greatly increases the stress on the bolt for a given torque as most of the applied torque is used to overcome thread friction when tightening up, the remainder is the actual clamping force that holds the bits together. General practice is to reduce the applied torque by about 25-30% from that specified for a dry fit to achieve the same clamping force. If you apply lubricant and then torque the bolt to its dry torque loading then you are probably increasing the stress on the bolt by 30% and therefore it may be more likely to fail. I think new drive member bolts are supplied with a locking compound already applied and therefore the torque specified in the book will be for a dry thread as obviously putting locking compound on a lubricated bolt thread won't do a thing!
sp00k
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 1,530
- Location
- Washington, County Durham, UK
Haynes says use loctite. I recently removed my front ones to change discs and they had loctite on them when I took them out. I cleaned the holes with a tap and cleaned the bolts thoroughly before refitting. As Kwakerman says, you can get new bolts with the compound applied. If you're not sure about the history, it might be worth replacing with genuine bolts as they are high tensile. These are safety critical so do it properly and torque them too.
