see where your comin from with this, but as i see it, combustion pressure is forcing pressure into water galleries and eventually header tank. asked the question earlier re hydraulicing as when engine been run and warm, and as you say the crack opens up, pressurised cooling system will then allow water into the affected pot. subsequently when you go to start it next time, your gonna try and squash this water on the compression stroke and the engine will turn over "lumpy", or at worst, stop dead. repeated attempts to turn it over results in either flat battery, bending a con rod, or hopefully (most times) forcing the small amount of water down the bore past the rings and into the sump, aloowing engine to be started.If the block is cracked between a waterway and a cylinder when the engine gets hot the crack will expand letting water into the cylinder, the water will be combusted, exit the cylinder as steam via the exhaust valve and out of the exhaust pipe. This MAY be what is happening.
see where your comin from with this, but as i see it, combustion pressure is forcing pressure into water galleries and eventually header tank. asked the question earlier re hydraulicing as when engine been run and warm, and as you say the crack opens up, pressurised cooling system will then allow water into the affected pot. subsequently when you go to start it next time, your gonna try and squash this water on the compression stroke and the engine will turn over "lumpy", or at worst, stop dead. repeated attempts to turn it over results in either flat battery, bending a con rod, or hopefully (most times) forcing the small amount of water down the bore past the rings and into the sump, aloowing engine to be started.
given what op says in his last post, i think i would be looking at a new head.
with regards to the op's comments re its history, and the fact its had to helicoiled.I personally wouldn't be replacing a head that passed a pressure test and has just been skimmed. In what way do you think the head has failed?
I would be surprised if the block was cracked, much more likely to be the head, I cannot remember ever having seen a 300 go that way-and I've seen a lot of busted ones!
Sourcing a used one would be very easy,i've got at least one, or even a complete engine-but you'd have to take the whole car!
Rob.
Some intersting theories abounding here, so I think I will chuck in another one....
Expanding on what the mighty Dids put forward, I would be inspecting the block very closely. If I may be so bold as to postulate that this is a fine example to apply Ochams Razor - ("cut out all the features of the theory that cannot be observed" - Stephen Hawking ) We know the head is machined flat, but not the block, therfore with the application of some engineers blue to the cleaned block face and the re-applying of the head we shall instantly be propergated with the answer to block flatness question. From here it is a small matter to have the intergrity of the Helicoils to be tested, but I would suggest a different M/c shop to prevent any bias in the results. Therfore, retest the head, check block face if neither of these divulge the culprit then it stands that whatever is left, however unlikely, is the culprit.... "and you will know the truth, and the truth will set you free" Jim Carey - Liar Liar.
i thought the same to be honest , but im really stuck with no motor havent been able to work for a fortnite now . im far from happy with it but im on the road . i dnt want to get rid of this disco yet so im looking at gettin a new lump from somewer .am what else will it bung up?
if your happy with it, job done!
hope it stays good.
I personally wouldn't be replacing a head that passed a pressure test and has just been skimmed. In what way do you think the head has failed?
My TD5 head passed a pressure test. My gut feeling told me it was gone. Unfortunately for me I was right.
It's also worth remembering that 300tdi lumps like to melt pistons if badly overheated.
rite guys ive played all afternoon with various theories and suggestions .
no difficulty in starting or turning over ,but losing lots of water . open expansion tank stops steam - close , pressurises and starts steam again .
dont no how this will go dwn but i used K seal as per instructions in coolant .
says " permanantly seals most leaks in engine block , cylinder head , head gaskets and freeze plugs "
i added it to warm coolant and ran up to temp until stat opened , within minutes my heaters are working for 1st time , no air in coolant ,hold water /pressure ok .
it ticked over for 45min withno prob , have done 20 mile and running A1 , not lost a drop of water .
for a tena thats some good **** , just question how long it gona last ?
In what way had it gone. What was wrong with it?
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