The art of soldering

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gstuart

gstuart

D3 Grandad
Full Member
Posts
30,764
Location
Kent
Well I think the sun has fried my brain as I’ve been trying to solder some wire to small terminals

Will it solder, will it hell

Trying to think what I'm doing wrong, soldering iron will reach 450c and have fitted a small pointed tip

So looked on ebay for some liquid flux and also found some leaded solder which I’m hoping will help

Wondering if there’s a good flux out there that u can recommend please and if the leaded solder will be any good

Here’s the links of what I’ve been looking at and the small terminals I’m trying to solder wire onto

Thks so much and apologises for asking the daft questions :bow:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lead-Sol...431719?hash=item48ce65ed67:g:0gYAAOSwITZdMDr4

Solder Content
Tin: 60%
Lead: 40%
Flux: 2%
Halide: 0.5%

Here’s the link ref different liquid fluxes

https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/ciufeks-soldering-solutions?_trksid=p2047675.l2563


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Last edited:
Might help

This is the solder and flux I’ve been using without success

5mt Lead Free Solder

0.6mm Diameter

Metal Content 99.3%

Melting Point 227 Degrees

Flux 2.2%

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Solder-Wire-5mt...Swf~JajEEV

Flux I’ve tried to use


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/40g-tin-solder-...0005.m1851

Soldering iron station I’ve got

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-In-1-750W-LCD-Soldering-Iron-Station-Desoldering-Hot-Air-Rework-Heater-Tool/223475622891?_trkparms=aid=222007&algo=SIM.MBE&ao=1&asc=20131003132420&meid=bdbcf969a0274b52a8a7167b22d67b5e&pid=100005&rk=3&rkt=12&sd=223590095075&itm=223475622891&pg=2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

Specification:
Welding station voltage: AC 26V 50Hz
Welding station power: 70W
Whole machine voltage: AC 220V ± 10% 50Hz
Whole machine power: 750W (Max.)
Hot air heater voltage: AC 220V ± 10% 50HZ
Hot air heater power: 700W
Temperature range: 100-500℃
Temperature stability: ±5℃
Air flow: 120L/Min. (Max.)
Plug: AU plug (Send with an adapter according to your country)
Welding station dimension: Approx. 14.5x17.5x10cm/ 5.71x6.89x3.94"
Hot air heater dimension: Approx. 23.5x5.5x3.8cm/ 9.25x2.17x1.5"
Welding iron length: Approx. 18cm/ 7.09"
Hot air heater and welding iron 2in1 rework soldering station.
Dual LCD digital displays to show precision temperature.
Extremely low noise and space saving design.
Intelligence self-detection function features safe personal operation.
Automatic cooling function for effectively prolonging the heater's life and protecting the hot air heater.


Thks for this and apologises being a royal pain
 
Last edited:
What is the problem exactly? Is the solder melting but not sticking to the terminals? Everything needs to be clean and you should tin the terminals and the wire before soldering them together. Try cleaning the terminals with a bit of emery cloth or sandpaper, make sure the soldering iron is hot enough before you start.

Col
 
It may be the solder itself? Solder for SMD work is different to the older stuff that contained resin flux. I suspect resin flux solder is no longer available for H&S reasons, but it's the best for electronics work if you can find it.
As Col said, everything needs to be clean and ideally tinned before it will solder well. Older flux was more aggressive and worked even with badly-prepared surfaces. The lead-free solder generally works fine, just needs a bit more heat, but joints can go brittle over time. I prefer to use the older 60/40 and use fume extraction.
Alternatively, with the current weather, leave it out in the sun for a couple of hours... it might solder itself!
 
gstuart said:
Trying to think what I'm doing wrong, soldering iron will reach 450c and have fitted a small pointed tip
Click to expand...

That's too hot. I solder fast, and set my iron to 325 - 350°C, depending on the mass of the components being soldered.

I was soldering some LiPo cells last night @ 350°C using standard flux cored leaded (60/40) solder.

If the iron won't tin, then it's probably due to the high temperature causing oxidation on the tip. Clean it off and use a lower temperature. ;)
 
Nodge68 said:
That's too hot. I solder fast, and set my iron to 325 - 350°C, depending on the mass of the components being soldered.

I was soldering some LiPo cells last night @ 350°C using standard flux cored leaded (60/40) solder.

If the iron won't tin, then it's probably due to the high temperature causing oxidation on the tip. Clean it off and use a lower temperature. ;)
Click to expand...

Thks and maybe that’s what I was also doing wrong having it set to high

Have ordered one of those soldering helping hands which should make life easier

Hopefully the new leaded solder will make a difference

Also forgot like a doughnut I’ve got some small grinding bits for my dremel, hopefully should be ideal to clean the terminals and also tip of the soldering iron

Threw me because I’ve never had issues like this before , main reason I asked because the issue was staring me in the face

Thks again

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meego said:
Lead Free Solder = Crap
You will find life a lot easier when you get your leaded stuff.
Click to expand...

That’s what I’m finding out, indeed fingers crossed the leaded solder will be better

To be honest didn’t realise u could still get it, loads of it in ebay so ordered 3 x rolls of it just in case it gets withdrawn

Thks again
 
Nodge68 said:
Oh and Big Clive (on YouTube) has a video of soldering, if you want to see how a pro does it.;)
Click to expand...

Cheers , will check it out

Can never stop learning and every day is a school day , know I ask daft questions, lol

Thks again
 
I share your pain. @gstuart I have the shakes and struggle with precision work like this now.
Buy foreign solder with real lead in it and rosin-core if you can rather than the lead-free rubbish.
Adding a liquid flux can never hurt but make sure its a no-clean flux and won't stay active and corrosive.
Decent iron with a good tip (pre tin it as it gets hot enough) tin the wires and the terminals first (if you can, without filling in the little holes in the tags where the wires may need to go).
Solder braid or a solder-sucker to remove solder that has got where you don't want it.

Good luck!
 
discool said:
Oh dear what would u do before the internet and forums? Is the wire your using solid copper core?
Click to expand...

would be then time to ask ur mates like we useto to , lol

No it’s not that heavy duty ;), they are old remnants of wire , ordered some new ones and chucked these old ones away
 
DanClarke said:
I share your pain. @gstuart I have the shakes and struggle with precision work like this now.
Buy foreign solder with real lead in it and rosin-core if you can rather than the lead-free rubbish.
Adding a liquid flux can never hurt but make sure its a no-clean flux and won't stay active and corrosive.
Decent iron with a good tip (pre tin it as it gets hot enough) tin the wires and the terminals first (if you can, without filling in the little holes in the tags where the wires may need to go).
Solder braid or a solder-sucker to remove solder that has got where you don't want it.

Good luck!
Click to expand...

Many thks, sorry to hear of ur struggles , must be extremely frustrating

Managed to find some lead solder with the rosin core, threw away the old bit of wire I was using and ordered some new rolls

Along with having the soldering helping hands stand it should make life easier

Should have everything by next week and can then start fresh

Enclosed a pic of the terminals I tried to solder, is a pack of 10 x aux sockets so this is a new one

Thks again

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You don't need to go to leaded solder. You wouldn't notice the difference with or without lead. Lead free just needs a slightly higher temp. Industry has managed without lead for over 20 years. Buy solder with flux already in it as it's less messy.

If yer soldering iron tip is long and pointy then heat won't travel to the end of the tip, as hot as you want. Turning up the heat won't solve this. When yer try to use it the heat at the end will dissipate out the tip leaving it not hot enough as there's little metal to supply constant heat. A thicker tip is better for this type of work.

As others said above. Melt solder onto the tip. Then tin the wire. Then tin the terminal. Then solder them together.
 
Hippo said:
You wouldn't notice the difference with or without lead.
Click to expand...
No contest between them. Leaded solder is miles better at flowing into the parent metal, and is less fussy on what the metal is.

Lead free solder doesn't flow well, and gives a much shorter life than leaded, hence millions of tonnes of electronic equipment going to landfill, which wouldn't happen if leaded solder had been used.
Hippo said:
Lead free just needs a slightly higher temp. Industry has managed without lead for over 20 years.
Click to expand...
Industry doesn't care if the product made goes to landfill sooner than it would have done if proper leaded solder had been used. ;)
 
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