Francesco M.
New Member
- Posts
- 7
Hi, I recently brought home a 1995 P38 2.5 diesel, taken from an old gentleman in my town for little money. The car had engine problems, arrived home by truck. A picture of the negotiation, concluded at €1000 (approximately £830).
I immediately started studying what the fault was (thanks to this forum I'm learning a lot about the P38, thank you very much!), I ordered a nanocom to do the necessary immobilizer and ECU/Becm alignment checks but there was nothing strange . The engine ran but wouldn't start, the stop solenoid opened and diesel was getting to the injectors but the engine wouldn't start. Out of despondency I buy a compression test kit and here comes the surprise, there is no compression! how is this possible? the car only has 180,000km (approximately 130,000 miles). The compression ranges from 7 to 11 bar, with this pressure the diesel won't ignite even with the propane torch! cracked head? bent valves? burnt gasket? I try to add a little oil and I see that the pressure increases, then the problem is the cylinders or the piston rings!
I bought a product called toralin anticarbon, it promises to dissolve the carbon residues that block the rings, it's worth trying before dismantling the engine. Unfortunately it didn't work, all I have to do is open the engine!
I get to work thinking that if I find ovalized cylinders that need grinding I will start looking for an engine (here in Italy you can find 325/525tds), because oversized pistons are not available and if they are found they are expensive.
In the end I'm lucky, all the expensive components are in good condition: cylinder head, valves, pistons, cylinders and crankshaft are perfectly within tolerance. Unfortunately, on all pistons, the second and third rings are welded, while the first one moves, thanks also to its different shape. The connecting rod bearings are perfect.
I ordered new standard size rings, chain and sprockets as well as gaskets and all the other things that are changed when an engine is opened, I will also dismantle the valves to grind the seats. I will rebuild it step by step, on weekends when I don't work, pray for me
.
I want to thank this fantastic forum where there are people who know these cars and make information available. Thanks very much. Obviously this work would not have been possible without the RAVE, found here on LandyZone. I will update you on developments, but don't rush!!
I immediately started studying what the fault was (thanks to this forum I'm learning a lot about the P38, thank you very much!), I ordered a nanocom to do the necessary immobilizer and ECU/Becm alignment checks but there was nothing strange . The engine ran but wouldn't start, the stop solenoid opened and diesel was getting to the injectors but the engine wouldn't start. Out of despondency I buy a compression test kit and here comes the surprise, there is no compression! how is this possible? the car only has 180,000km (approximately 130,000 miles). The compression ranges from 7 to 11 bar, with this pressure the diesel won't ignite even with the propane torch! cracked head? bent valves? burnt gasket? I try to add a little oil and I see that the pressure increases, then the problem is the cylinders or the piston rings!
I bought a product called toralin anticarbon, it promises to dissolve the carbon residues that block the rings, it's worth trying before dismantling the engine. Unfortunately it didn't work, all I have to do is open the engine!
I get to work thinking that if I find ovalized cylinders that need grinding I will start looking for an engine (here in Italy you can find 325/525tds), because oversized pistons are not available and if they are found they are expensive.
In the end I'm lucky, all the expensive components are in good condition: cylinder head, valves, pistons, cylinders and crankshaft are perfectly within tolerance. Unfortunately, on all pistons, the second and third rings are welded, while the first one moves, thanks also to its different shape. The connecting rod bearings are perfect.
I ordered new standard size rings, chain and sprockets as well as gaskets and all the other things that are changed when an engine is opened, I will also dismantle the valves to grind the seats. I will rebuild it step by step, on weekends when I don't work, pray for me
.I want to thank this fantastic forum where there are people who know these cars and make information available. Thanks very much. Obviously this work would not have been possible without the RAVE, found here on LandyZone. I will update you on developments, but don't rush!!
). As you say, the oil pump is driven by a free-rotating sleeve(4) on the crankshaft and is tightened by the big bolt(1) that holds the pulley hub(2), sprocket(3), and the part that drives the pump together(4).
