Test Fan Viscous Coupling

Datatek said:

Not sure how you applied pressure, you should use a tightly rolled newspaper and stuff the end into the blades, if it either stops or slows dramatically it's fecked, if it shreds the end of the paper it's OK, engine hot of course.

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ukadamwest said:

You did bolt the fan blades on the right way around ?

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RangeRoller dt said:

Is the 300TDI fan any good for a P38??

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RangeRoller dt said:

Is the 300TDI fan any good for a P38??

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wammers said:

See post #13.

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Ratae said:

If it won't turn at all it's seized.



When cold the fan will be as Wammers has already said.
With the engine turned off & cold mine is stiff to turn by hand initially but as I continue to turn it it frees off to the point of freewheeling.
As things heat up & the clutch works it will become harder. I'd suggest being careful if you want to try that so you don't damage anything.
Bear in mind it uses a liquid to engage so is not mechanically locked together.
If yours does that it's fine.
Mine's a 1986 3.5EFi & I can remove the fan altogether complete with the viscous coupling by undoing the big nut in the centre which holds it onto the nose of the waterpump shaft & fit electric fans such as the Kenlowe instead. The big nut is on the engine side of the vc.
Helps to loosen the radiator shroud to ease lifting the fan assembly out once you've got the nut loose.
The fan can then be removed from the vc. by undoing the four bolts.

I did try the Kenlowe's but noticed b.all difference in fuel economy.
The main difference was the reduction in noise from the engine bay.
I can see an advantage if you do a lot of deep wading as you could fit an override switch to turn them off & not have them fling water all over the engine.

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