Temp Sender

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Dopey

Well-Known Member
Posts
6,201
Location
Heathrow
Hi all, well i sorted out the lights and millage (it was dim) and stuck some bulbs behind it and its all working fine so thanks for the help, only took 20 mins from start to finish

So know i would like to sort out the temp sender the one behind the small grill under the clock, can any one ether link me s site, or run me through what needs to be done? thanks
 
Hi all, well i sorted out the lights and millage (it was dim) and stuck some bulbs behind it and its all working fine so thanks for the help, only took 20 mins from start to finish

So know i would like to sort out the temp sender the one behind the small grill under the clock, can any one ether link me s site, or run me through what needs to be done? thanks
told yer it were easy did`nt i :) :) :) .
rick.
 
You did m8 thanks for that top man ;) i was gona have a bash at doing the sensor, but i had to do the kitchen worktops yesterday and some plumbing, and then i went to a show all day today (Classics On The Green) and got back late, sp when i get an answer to this one i will do it, and then at least if someone runs me through it i will stand a better chance, because it looks like a pig of a job (rather than finish the kitchen off)
 
What a pain in the ass taking them side panels off!! i have to say that RangeRovers.net is a top site and made it a lot easier than just guessing

Anyway changed the sensor over and the book is still coming up, so im well ****ed off with this now, going to take it to an A/C bod in Chertsy so he can have a look at it

Irish thanks for your help so far m8, i’m thinking (as i did all along) its the compressor

Just to add after about 2 mins the book comes up, and the revs go down (like the compressor is shutting off) then if i manually turn the A/C on and off it doesn’t come on, so that’s why i’m thinking its that
 
:) Hiya Dopey-let's start with a few topics:
You had it regassed-did it get cold and the book go out?
Was the compressor running (Clutch energising)?
Was one pipe at the comp. hot and the other freezing whilst it was running?
It would probably be best if you could get the faults on the HEVAC read which would show where the problem is if it's a sensor by someone with Rovacom or Autologic.
The cheque book symbol can appear for reasons from Blend Motor faults (Ugh!!) to sensors and loss of gas.
If the comp. is shot, it wont make enough pressure to energise one of the two pressure switches located next to the dryer (Behind the front bumper-L.H. side).
Another thought is that the thermostatic valve, located on the bulkhead could be sticky and not opening, but that would not give you much cooling.
If you are stuck and I can help with the comp. send me a PM and we will see if we can sort something out.
 
Ok the sad story so far is.......I have no gas in the system after only 10 days of re gassing it up, and i think it ran out about 5 days ago, i rang Kwik fit up told them it detected no leaks and he said the only thing it could be is the valves that they plug it in to (the 2 on the bulkhead to re gas it) it wont detect a leak from there if there is one

Although i put the new sensor in the fans are not blowing as they should, if i put them on manule they do blow, but not as hard as they should, on auto they just about blow, (Blend Motor fault??) That would show the book but wouldn't explain the loss of gases would it?

You had it regassed-did it get cold and the book go out?

Yes just about getting A/C air out of it, and the book did go out

Was the compressor running (Clutch energising)?

Honestly can say, but i did have cold air coming out, if the clutch wasn't working surly i wouldn't have even had the small amount of A/C air coming out of the system? (Just!! the fan wasn't blowing as it should though)

Was one pipe at the comp. hot and the other freezing whilst it was running?

I think it was so it was circulating around the system

I took it to this guy in Chertsy and he had a quick look at it....and its anything from a simple relay to the blend motor (like you say a right pain) to the compressor, but it looks like what ever it is now is beyond me doing some kind of a fix, and leave it to someone who knows what there doing, i could change the valves on the top where you re gas that wouldn't be hard to to, but i have googled and egayed and cant find them, im told there only a few ££ each
 
Another thought is that the thermostatic valve, located on the bulkhead could be sticky and not opening, but that would not give you much cooling.

John exactly where is that?
 
Firstly, ask your aircon man in Chertsey if he has, or can get the valve cores-failing that, try contacting Polar Aircon in Manchester (They have website). The expansion valve is rectangular approx. 3" long by 1" square , follow the aircon steel pipe around the bulkhead (Under the bonnet) and the pipe goes into the expansion valve which is about 18" from the l.h. wing.
Do your blower fans blow fast if you select manual on your HEVAC and turn the control knob up-the "Bar graph" should increase as you turn it.
If the book went out when you had it gassed, I would think the Blends are okay-are you having any problems with either temperature control to individual sides or air distribution to footwell, screen etc.? i.e. is one side hot and the other cold and uncontrollable-remember you can only have a max.difference of around 6deg between sides.
The best way to find a leak is to obviously put UV dye in the system when gassing up and this will pinpoint it with a UV lamp. If it's a bad leak they will have problems pulling the vaccum down and the vac. should hold. Another method used is to charge the system with nitrogen, which is inert and use a soap solution around exposed joints. Hose crimps are a typical cause on the high pressure side and the condenser (In front of the cooling rad) is renowned for leaking, especially in the corners -top l.h. is the favourite, as the tube wall thickness is reduced at the bends. I had the book showing and found the gas had gone due to the condenser leaking. After this was fixed, a couple of months later I noticed dye around one of the hose crimps at the compressor, luckily I was able to get it re crimped. TIP* Only use hose suitable for Aircon as normal Hydraulic hose will break down-contact your local Pirtek for help or most aircon specialists stock it and the crimping gear.
Aircon compressors are generally reliable, with the clutch being the first thing to give up the ghost.
Come back if you want more info.,if I can offer any more advice I will but don't give up.:) :) :) :)
 
Ok the guy found a bloody big split in the air con pipe (so how did kwik fit miss that then?

And the drivers side blower is working intermittently (cost £350 apparently :eek:) he said it works and its not worth doing until it fubar so im leaving it (Ok so im skint :D and i cant afford it right now) so when i look around Eblag and find a cheap one im gona snag it for the future

I been quoted just over £100 for the parts fitting it and re-gas and oil, so at least its all ready for the winter !!!! :confused:

Thanks to all who contributed to this helpful tread

Love & Miss you All Tony

XXXXX ;)
 
drivers side blower is working intermittently (cost £350 apparently :eek

He he i got one from eblag for £1 :D

i have been told i can just take the motor out and swap it over with the duff one and its a 15 min job at most, is this true? and do i take the underside of the drivers side of the dash (foot well where your knees are) out to get to it and undo clips etc? any advice would be good, im doing the job 2morrow


thanks all
 
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