TD5 won't start after injector seal replacement

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It's not about continuity but about loosen cavities in that plug...happened to me and the only cure i found was to replace the main harness:( try to be handy and jiggle that plug when the symptom occurs
 
this might sound weird
last time I did my injector harness .I still had oil entering the red plug on ECU
I removed the rubber seel in the plug so the plug was unsealed (any oil enters the plug will leak out )
I then rapped a one of the wifes libra pads around the plug to soak or draw any oil
it took a while to clear up and I changed the pad twice
its a bit weird but it worked

is there any smoke out the exhaust from the misfire if so what colour ?
also when the engine is missing ...switch off one injector at a time and listen to how the engine reacts (balance check )

have you drove the vehicle lately got it up to operating temps if so does the engine still miss ?
 
Had trouble with mine in December I pulled the red plug and tested the leads to the injector solenoid to see if any were down to earth or open circuit, result was:


One last thought I measured the resistance of the injector pins at the plug
A1, A24, A25, A26, A27, are the injector pins the commons are A22, A23
Each pin had a path to one or the other commons with a resistance between 1.6 and 1.9 Ohms
Each pin had a path to one other pin with a resistance of about 2.8 Ohms.
Did not understand why each pin has a connection to one other pin, has anyone else checked this ?
Would be interested to hear the readings from a known healthy system.


I had a reply that this seems normal may be something to help in this thread:
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/crankshaft-sensor-spacer.308563/page-4
 
raywin said:
Had trouble with mine in December I pulled the red plug and tested the leads to the injector solenoid to see if any were down to earth or open circuit, result was:


One last thought I measured the resistance of the injector pins at the plug
A1, A24, A25, A26, A27, are the injector pins the commons are A22, A23
Each pin had a path to one or the other commons with a resistance between 1.6 and 1.9 Ohms
Each pin had a path to one other pin with a resistance of about 2.8 Ohms.
Did not understand why each pin has a connection to one other pin, has anyone else checked this ?
Would be interested to hear the readings from a known healthy system.
Click to expand...
its called CAN bus https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/automotive-can-bus-system-explained-kiril-mucevski
 
Right still no joy and sump filled with diesel again

So I took the plunge and removed the head I can't see any cracks but that doesn't mean there aren't any!

I'm a bit concerned as lots of det marks on cylinders 1,2,4,5 none on 3 strangely

I know people say these can't be skimmed but what is the real story
 
having the head skimmed wont fix your issue unless its warped
me personally I would lay the cylinder head back onto to block without a head gasket and head bolts install all injectors and fuel lines
then jack up the head with some spacers a few mm then prime the fuel system ..leave enough gap between the head and block so you can visibly see any leaks
 
ozzyboydeano said:
having the head skimmed wont fix your issue unless its warped
me personally I would lay the cylinder head back onto to block without a head gasket and head bolts install all injectors and fuel lines
then jack up the head with some spacers a few mm then prime the fuel system ..leave enough gap between the head and block so you can visibly see any leaks
Click to expand...

Head will need light skim due to det marks nothing else!

Think I can see crack in no1 injector hole but going to send it to be crack tested and welded if needed
 
Hi
Been down this road myself, first time had to re-build the engine, after No1 Injector pocket cracked.
Had the head welded but it was a bad crack and two months later it failed again.
My two threads are on this section.
Replaced the head with a new AMC head, far better quality than the LR one.
All good since.
Its worth looking at getting it welded, as its far cheaper than a new head.
But in my case I can put up to 1000 miles a week on it, so it must be reliable.
The guy who welded mine is on eBay, he did say it was a bad crack so I wasn't surprised when it failed.
I was checking my oil level twice a day, a crack can fill the sump up in a matter of hours!
Mark
 
PS When your head is off couple of things to note:
Keep your hydraulic tappets upright! Use a piece of thick foam with holes in it.
Use the correct sealant between the cam carrier/cover and the head.
Get your injectors tested by a proper specialist i.e. Merlin Diesels.
 
markomate2 said:
PS When your head is off couple of things to note:
Keep your hydraulic tappets upright! Use a piece of thick foam with holes in it.
Use the correct sealant between the cam carrier/cover and the head.
Get your injectors tested by a proper specialist i.e. Merlin Diesels.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the heads up, tappets are out but not upright and probably to late to sort now

I'll put them in a tub of oil before refitting
 
I dont think putting them in oil will help.
It just means the engine may be "tappy" at times,doesn't really bother me.
You maybe lucky.
If my head ever came off again Id probably replace them, but its unlikely as Im probably selling her (again!) in the next few months.
If you do get your head repaired, do the following:
As part of the repair, the injector pocket will have been machined, it will leave lots of swarf.
A single piece of swarf will trash an injector.
Remove the metal gauze cone thats behind the FPR
Use a hose and flush though all the passage ways in the head, especially the fuel galleries, do it very thoroughly.
Mark
 
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