TD5 standard map is it sthle022 sttlp009

Defender NZ · May 8, 2020

sierrafery said:
Are you sure that all the sensors are in perfect working order and no boost leak or delaminated hoses? Better record on SD card an "inputs fuelling" log from a drive and post it here, blaming the ECU should be the last step.

Thankyou Sierrafery,

I'll do that on Sunday, if I get a chance, much obliged

I just can't think what else it would be, as it seemed to have started immediately after I replaced the O rings & the copper washers on the injectors, hence suspecting the ECU, as all the other
obvious have been done

.

Many thanks I'll be in touch ...
Just post it here ?

sierrafery · May 8, 2020

Another simple test is to check if the pump is working OK or not. it's explained here for D2 https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/check-td5-fuel-pump-hp.358086/ strangely in the diagram for defender appears to be 20A fuse for the pump while the D2 has 30A fuse, anyway, the principle is the same so check voltage across fuse F4 under seat, if it's 20A like in the diagram for a well working pump you should get around 40mV

Defender NZ · May 8, 2020

sierrafery said:
Another simple test is to check if the pump is working OK or not. it's explained here for D2 https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/check-td5-fuel-pump-hp.358086/ strangely in the diagram for defender appears to be 20A fuse for the pump while the D2 has 30A fuse, anyway, the principle is the same so check voltage across fuse F4 under seat, if it's 20A like in the diagram for a well working pump you should get around 40mV

Thanks.
I'll try that

Defender NZ · May 9, 2020

sierrafery said:
Another simple test is to check if the pump is working OK or not. it's explained here for D2 https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/check-td5-fuel-pump-hp.358086/ strangely in the diagram for defender appears to be 20A fuse for the pump while the D2 has 30A fuse, anyway, the principle is the same so check voltage across fuse F4 under seat, if it's 20A like in the diagram for a well working pump you should get around 40mV

Thanks Sierraferry,

I'm in your debt

.
I did the fuel pump check today, as suggested, and got a reading of 13.9 mV !!

That would explain a few things.....

Never gave that a thought

, but you always learn something every day (well I do

!)

Many thanks for the suggestions, and I'll order a new pump

Last pump died in 2012, and I replaced it with a VDO pump Paddock Spares.

Any suggestions ?

Many thanks

lightning · May 9, 2020

If all else fails a LR dealer should be able to reset your ECU with the correct fuel map for the vehicle.
I took mine in to the dealer to get rid of a poor “Alive” remap that smoked far too much.
They reset the ECU and the Defender ran smoother than it had ever done, although it was slower obviously.
The cost was £125 ! But it was worth it.

With the standard map my 2005 TD5 110 will do around 85mph, where legal. Although l wouldn’t want to.

l since had Dynachip out to remap it and his remap was fine, for some reason my 110 doesn’t like the full fat remap, it produced billowing clouds of white smoke on full throttle.
The Dynachip guy had to turn it down twice before it was OK.
But it’s still better than standard.

Defender NZ · May 9, 2020

lightning said:
If all else fails a LR dealer should be able to reset your ECU with the correct fuel map for the vehicle.
I took mine in to the dealer to get rid of a poor “Alive” remap that smoked far too much.
They reset the ECU and the Defender ran smoother than it had ever done, although it was slower obviously.
The cost was £125 ! But it was worth it.

With the standard map my 2005 TD5 110 will do around 85mph, where legal. Although l wouldn’t want

l since had Dynachip out to remap it and his remap was fine, for some reason my 110 doesn’t like the full fat remap, it produced billowing clouds of white smoke on full throttle.
The Dynachip guy had to turn it down twice before it was OK.
But it’s still better than standard.

Thanks for that

I've order a new fuel pump, and see what that does, I'll probably put the original Map on, and like you said, ; if all else fails I'll see if my friendly stealer can put it on the T4 machine.

Keep you posted with the outcome.

Stay safe and keep well

sierrafery · May 9, 2020

I'm glad you found the problem. Don't forget to purge it twice after you replaced the pump

Defender NZ · May 9, 2020

sierrafery said:
I'm glad you found the problem. Don't forget to purge it twice after you replaced the pump

Will do, when it finally gets here, with all the Coronavirus going on etc, and many thanks once again.
I'll let you know

Stay safe and keep well

Defender NZ · May 28, 2020

Defender NZ said:
Will do, when it finally gets here, with all the Coronavirus going on etc, and many thanks once again.
I'll let you know

Stay safe and keep well

Received the new pump yesterday (VDO), fitted it and although it runs much better on the original map svlne004-svtnp003, it still runs rough on idle for about 3 to 4 second after revving up, or driving...

Strangely, it seems to "stutter"(rough idle again) when freewheeling down a slope, but comes back to idle perfectly after revving up when stationary....

Also runs rough when cold (surging..)...but when the AAP sensor is disconnected it runs as it should do.............

Got 3 of those, but all the same....

Checked MAP sensor, which is spotless (unless faulty internally), so I'm at a loss

Any ideas??

Defender NZ · May 28, 2020

Defender NZ said:
Received the new pump yesterday (VDO), fitted it and although it runs much better on the original map svlne004-svtnp003, it still runs rough on idle for about 3 to 4 second after revving up, or driving...

Strangely, it seems to "stutter"(rough idle again) when freewheeling down a slope, but comes back to idle perfectly after revving up when stationary....
Also runs rough when cold (surging..)...but when the AAP sensor is disconnected it runs as it should do.............
Got 3 of those, but all the same....

PS EGR is bypassed.........

Checked MAP sensor, which is spotless (unless faulty internally), so I'm at a loss

Any ideas??

sierrafery · May 28, 2020

read again post 41 and do that

Defender NZ · May 28, 2020

sierrafery said:
read again post 41 and do that

Thanks SierraFery.

Not sure how to get to post 41....

?

sierrafery · May 28, 2020

The number of post is at the right bottom in front of ''Like" button like #53 in this case so scroll up 12 posts...btw did you check the ECU red plug and the rocker cover bottom plug to injetor loom for oil ingress ?

Defender NZ · May 28, 2020

sierrafery said:
The number of post is at the right bottom in front of ''Like" button like #53 in this case so scroll up 12 posts...btw did you check the ECU red plug and the rocker cover bottom plug to injetor loom for oil ingress ?

Thanks Sierrafery,
Yes I did and no oil was present, other than a slight weepy trace of oil.
Cleaned that with brake cleaner, but other than that it seemed ok.
I have got a new wiring loom in stock, just in case my brain melts

I"ll have a look at post 41 and consult that and let you know

Many thanks once again

sierrafery · May 28, 2020

A slight trace of oil is enough to know that the injector loom must be changed

Defender NZ · May 28, 2020

Defender NZ said:
Thanks Sierrafery,
Yes I did and no oil was present, other than a slight weepy trace of oil.
Cleaned that with brake cleaner, but other than that it seemed ok.
I have got a new wiring loom in stock, just in case my brain melts

I"ll have a look at post 41 and consult that and let you know

Many thanks once again

Yes will do, as soon as I have sorted out my Winzip, which is giving me a problem at the moment....

Defender NZ · May 28, 2020

Defender NZ said:
Yes will do, as soon as I have sorted out my Winzip, which is giving me a problem at the moment....

I'll change the wiring loom too, just in case, but usually when the loom needs to be changed it is
running rough most of the time....

I'll change that and let you know ....

Many thanks

sierrafery · May 28, 2020

If you remove the cover you should re-check the timing too by using timing pins

Defender NZ · May 30, 2020

sierrafery said:
If you remove the cover you should re-check the timing too by using timing pins

Replaced wiring loom, checked the timing with the timing pins and found it was a "smidgen" retarded...(I know what that feels like

)

After checking the timing had to do the injectors again, and it runs muchos betteros now, but
it still does the "odd" stutter once and a while.

I'll get my Winzip sorted out tonight and perhaps post the input fueling if I may.

Thanks for that......
I was started to doubt my own sanity for a while

Defender NZ · Jun 6, 2020

I have recorded the inputs fuelling, and downloaded on to Excel as xlsx file.
Zipped it.
Not sure if this will work...............

Have a look if it unzips...

Many thanks

TD5 standard map is it sthle022 sttlp009

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