Td5 powerloss

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Overworked

Member
Posts
32
Location
Barnstaple
Hi all.
When my td5 gets underload, either up hill or getting up speed 70 mph.it starts to go into a sort of limpmode, type thing.i pull over switch off then start it straight up and it's fine again.i have changed the fuel filter but still the same???
 
Overworked said:
Hi all.
When my td5 gets underload, either up hill or getting up speed 70 mph.it starts to go into a sort of limpmode, type thing.i pull over switch off then start it straight up and it's fine again.i have changed the fuel filter but still the same???
Click to expand...
Hi
Have you checked red ecu plug for oil??
Similar happened to me a while back tbh cant remember how I resolved it but I would start there.
 
Overworked said:
What is overboost
Click to expand...
It's when all the boost gets to the inlet then the ECU cuts fuelling to protect the engine, it can be the result of failed wastegate mdulator or stuck wastegate... see this http://www.discovery2.co.uk/wastegate.html ... in the 3'rd picture see the pipe pointed as "to metal intercooler..." take a longer piece of pipe and connect the intercooler side with the wastegate or join it somehow with the one from the right which goes to the wastegate...if after that the symptom is gone replace the modulator... meanwhile make sure that the mechanical wastegate is not stuck closed... follow the video untill the end ... also if it's Eu3 engine unplug the MAF for a drive test as well


 
Might be a leak in the pipework / hoses / intercooler between the turbo and throttle body. Boost reaches a certain pressure and opens up a split = limp mode, then ok at next start up because the leak has closed up, until next boost high pressure. Diagnostic is your friend here, the fault code will pinpoint the cause.
 
Overworked said:
My wastegate is stiff to move,same as video.is that normal or seized
Click to expand...
It has to be stiff to move cos the valve has a strong spring within, important is to move like in the video,
Wimblowdriver said:
Might be a leak in the pipework / hoses / intercooler between the turbo and throttle body. Boost reaches a certain pressure and opens up a split = limp mode, then ok at next start up because the leak has closed up, until next boost high pressure. Diagnostic is your friend here, the fault code will pinpoint the cause.
Click to expand...
the Td5 has a throttle body? ... also limp mode on a Td5 is induced by an automatic transmission fault it has nothing to do with boost...maybe you are thinking to a V8
 
Ok I thought there was a strong spring.the other end is free and can move it easily.does the part with the spring fail?. It seams tight like the video but does move.
My symptoms are on hard throttle the car starts to lose power and judders.i can keep running but probably 30 mph flat out.pull over switch off then start and is fine until under load then same again.if I drive under 50 without pushing the vehicle all is good
 
The valve can fail too but it's rare, attach a pump to it's port and if it moves when you pump it the valve is OK, or bypass the modulator as i explained in my first reply, the symptom you describe seems like overboost as described in the tutorial which i linked too
 
Sierrafery.im a bit slow on the uptakebut I think I get it.im going to get a new modulator and try that, for the price they are.
Really appreciate your help,thank you
 
sierrafery said:
the Td5 has a throttle body? ... also limp mode on a Td5 is induced by an automatic transmission fault it has nothing to do with boost...maybe you are thinking to a V8
Click to expand...
Dunno if the TD5 has one. My Tdci has one, I assumed the Td5 would have one also. Twice I have had exactly the symptoms described by Overworked, first time was a split hose turbo to intercooler. Second time was a split in the intercooler. First time it needed fixing was easy, I went to the main dealer for a replacement hose and was told it was a warranty recall so they collected the landy and fixed it. Second time I put the nanocom on and narrowed the cause down, finding it took a lot longer but got there eventually and replaced the intercooler.
 
A test which can confirm if it's the modulator is to remove fuse F2(engine bay) and drive it so... if it's OK this way then you know it's the modulator but unfortunately if it's not better it's not a confirmation that the modulator is OK if you see what i mean
 
Overworked said:
Ok I thought there was a strong spring.the other end is free and can move it easily.does the part with the spring fail?. It seams tight like the video but does move.
My symptoms are on hard throttle the car starts to lose power and judders.i can keep running but probably 30 mph flat out.pull over switch off then start and is fine until under load then same again.if I drive under 50 without pushing the vehicle all is good
Click to expand...
Sounds very similar to the symptoms I had when my fuel pump failed. Fine up to around 30mph then juddery with very little power.
Turn the ignition to position 2, can you hear the pump priming? (Steady whining from the fuel tank area)
 
sierrafery said:
A test which can confirm if it's the modulator is to remove fuse F2(engine bay) and drive it so... if it's OK this way then you know it's the modulator but unfortunately if it's not better it's not a confirmation that the modulator is OK if you see what i mean
Click to expand...
I understand, I'll try that first
 
sierrafery said:
A test which can confirm if it's the modulator is to remove fuse F2(engine bay) and drive it so... if it's OK this way then you know it's the modulator but unfortunately if it's not better it's not a confirmation that the modulator is OK if you see what i mean
Click to expand...
I'm going with dead fuel pump...

Or not.... :rolleyes:
 
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