TD5 Oil Light comes on at idle

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Mjtray

New Member
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9
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Reading-Berks
Just acquired a 2003 TD5 and the red oil can light comes on when the vehicle is at idle....raise the revs by a 100 and it immediately goes out.

In all other respects it drives absolutely perfect and oil is upto the levels etc etc.

I'm assuming an Oil Pressure Switch.....any thoughts?...is this a common'ish TD5 problem?

Many thanks
 
Last edited:
oil pressure switch is first option
when was the oil last changed - and what viscosity
change oil next option, then it gets expensive.

didnt early teedeefoives suffer from oil pump failure?
 
Thanks for that

Oil was changed about 5K ago with 5-30....vehicle has had good regular servicing, so I'm going to give the oil pressure sensor a go first.
 
Biglad

This might be stupid question time....when you say the main full flow (not rotor) filter...do you mean the main oil filter or is there some other oil related filter that I'm not aware of.

Many thanks
 
the TD5s have 2 oil filters AFAIK, one has a spinny bit in it (rotor) the other does not, one is placed in a stupid position (under a manifold??) the other is more accessible, which is which I do not know.

Not seen a TD5, but info I have gleemed from too much free time on here!!
 
Mjtray said:
Biglad

This might be stupid question time....when you say the main full flow (not rotor) filter...do you mean the main oil filter or is there some other oil related filter that I'm not aware of.

Many thanks
Click to expand...

The main full flow air filter looks just like any normal one, is in a damn awkward place and according to LR needs changing less often. In addition there is the rotor oil filter, smaller device which is much more accessible and is, consequently changed much more often.

I suggested changing the main filter as is has a spring-loaded valve in it, which can affect oil pressure at tickover.

What speed does your engine tickover at, when it is warmed up?

Have you checked the ECU red plug for oil contamination? If full of oil it affects the smoothness of tickover therefore oil pressure.

Dave
 
Warm Idle is rock steady at 600rpm or so.......if you just touch the accelerator pedal the oil light goes out.

Engine is nice and smooth, with no nasty noises etc.

I'm going to do another oil change tomorrow.....is the "hard to get at" oil filter up under the Turbo?

Many thanks
 
Mjtray said:
Warm Idle is rock steady at 600rpm or so.......if you just touch the accelerator pedal the oil light goes out.

Engine is nice and smooth, with no nasty noises etc.

I'm going to do another oil change tomorrow.....is the "hard to get at" oil filter up under the Turbo?

Many thanks
Click to expand...


Your tickover is too low - it should be 750 + or - 50. That's why your oil light is on!!
 
Agree with above, tick over sounds too low.
The "hard to get at filter" isn't. Clearly visible and easily accessed. Just lean in and unscrew it?! Don't bother with an oil change unless you're changing both filters. They're both cheap as chips so it's not worth leaving them out if you do change the oil.

Dave
 
Disco DJ said:
Agree with above, tick over sounds too low.
The "hard to get at filter" isn't. Clearly visible and easily accessed. Just lean in and unscrew it?! Don't bother with an oil change unless you're changing both filters. They're both cheap as chips so it's not worth leaving them out if you do change the oil.

Dave
Click to expand...


Hi Dave, I don't know if you've ever done this, but I've done loads of TD5's and I can assure you that the full-flow filter is an awkward bâstard to get out, especially if you want to remove it without emptying the old oil all over that side of the engine.

The rotor filter by comparison is a piece of cake, so long as you don't over-tighten the 2 retaining screws. This is why LR recommend changing the rotor filters every oil-change but the main oil only every 2yrs.
 
thebiglad said:
Hi Dave, I don't know if you've ever done this, but I've done loads of TD5's and I can assure you that the full-flow filter is an awkward bâstard to get out, especially if you want to remove it without emptying the old oil all over that side of the engine.

The rotor filter by comparison is a piece of cake, so long as you don't over-tighten the 2 retaining screws. This is why LR recommend changing the rotor filters every oil-change but the main oil only every 2yrs.
Click to expand...

I've only changed the filter whilst doing an oil change but I didn't think it was a big deal. I put a carrier bag round it when removing to cut down on the mess, but it was fairly easy job. Mind you, I have done the starter motor repair job, so after that everything seems easy!!
Can't understand the "every 2 years" thing. I wouldn't dream of putting nice clean oil in the engine and leaving it to all go through a dirty old filter!

Dave
 
Disco DJ said:
Can't understand the "every 2 years" thing. I wouldn't dream of putting nice clean oil in the engine and leaving it to all go through a dirty old filter!

Dave
Click to expand...


I think LR's theory is that with the rotor filter capturing most of the muck, the full flow filter shouldn't get that dirty?????:confused::confused::rolleyes::rolleyes:
 
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