sierrafery
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The loom doesnt affect the codes ...so By George, are you up to do the right thing and rule out the CAT or not?
Td5 no power
- Thread starter leeby7
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Its done 109 miles to £25 of derv?
neilly
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Give or take 22MPG, depending on how you drive it may be high. I normally get 27MPG on average.
I assume you have checked for leaks?
Cheers
neilly
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Have you checked your oil? just to make sure no diesel is getting in there.
Cheers
Cheers
brian47
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I've just been reading back over this thread some of which is just plain old crap.
Let me put it this way Sunshine, for the last five years of my gainful employment, I was a calibration engineer, so if you think that a poxy little float driven level gauge is beyond my level of expertise or intelligence then I take particular exception to your unwarranted aspersions on my abilities. And as for being too lazy to do anything about it, I can assure you that laziness is not a problem, nor is there a need to re-adjust or recalibrate my fuel gauge.
I would respectfully request that you withdraw your head from your rectum and engage a sense of humour instead of your "look how great I am attitude", or did you leave it behind when you left the UK?
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ozzyboydeano
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apart from knowing that the fuel gauge is actually the "fool gauge"
what where you referring to ?
any ways because I am a mind reader and you surmised that I knew your level expertise..
is there any way to recalibrate the stock cooling gauge so it actually moves up and down to different engine temps
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By making a signal converter that changes voltage into pwm.
If the injector codes are wrong, then the fuel timings could also be out. Its more than likely not this, but its worth checking.Why would he need to check teh injector codes? ...just asking
I do know that I had some wierd power issues when my injector seals had gone (the copper end, not the rubber end) but I also had hard starting issues and the engine would die under heavy load.
If you think your using more fuel than usual, it could be that you have a small leak on an injector. But it would have to be a minor leak as you would normally have other symptoms that follow. Same goes for a iffy injector.
ozzyboydeano
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this sort of behaviour is expected from a woman
unless some men cant multitask alsoits called monitoring and good observation
AKA multitaskingmy wife does the same thing ..she will drive for hours on end with out realising the engine is running hot until its to late
also one of my other cars has a stock voltage meter not until the batt is flat she hasn't realised its been charging or not
now try and ask her when the engine light came on she wont be able to tell you what day of the month it came on ... her excuse is I don't know I was busy driving
to busy texting more likebut any way she is getting better I have even trained her how to open the bonnet and check oil levels and coolant levels
but then again on the TD5 there isn't really much to monitor ..we have a coolant gauge that does not read correct. .....tacho and speedo and fuel gauge what about the rest ?
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ozzyboydeano
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if your not going to run tests like other members have pointed out you are just chasing your tail..and eveuantually you may get pointed in the wrong direction due to people taking shortcuts you need to start with the basics first
cat has been mentioned many times to be ruled out.... by disconnecting the exhaust and test drive has this been done yet ?
other tests would be to clean all sensors with a solvent specially the small orifice hole that reads boost pressure on the MAP sensor giving the fact the breathing oil mixing with dust (no air filter installed )
boost leaks ..pressure rise the intercooler very easy job just need an old car inner tube and hose clamps and a tyre gauge with compressed air (I know my intercooler doesn't hold pressure for to long due to a slight hair line crack in one of the cores but not enough to give me the S##ts just yet...... but I know I will need a new one soon because eventually it will get worse........ sure my boost gauge will let me know when the intercooler gets to bad as pressure will start to drop over time
waste gate may appear to work but is this actually returning home ? this means a visual check inside the turbo also to make sure the waste gate flap is fully seating ....I have had a few other engines actually break a piece of the gate flap resulting in some of the exhaust to bypass ..also at the same time inspect turbo does the impellors look worn specially on the intake side due to the fact there was no air filter installed .(this would be one of the things I would check first )
the impellor could be worn due to being dusted this means the inducer and exducer of the turbo impellor is now out of spec (boost gauge can help ) and take note when there is best boost compared to RPMS and engine load .... you may find higher RPM to get to the desired boost level this is a compensate for wear instead of making boost down low in the RPM range due to being out of spec hence you cant select another gear
a turbo impellor can reach up to speeds to 80 thousand RPM this is slow compared to many other engines ... so any dust entering the engine the impellor is now shot blasted (dusting)...turbos work on a high tolerance scale so with out knowing the history of the car and how long this engine has ran with out an air filter every one on this forum is in limbo
the EGR I would also like to know how this has been disabled.... has it only been disabled by some one removing the electric solenoids only ? but all the cooler and actuators maybe still in place ..... this doesn't stop a bad worn out seat on the EGR as it can still bypass unsure about this as of yet as there is no mention how the EGR has been deleted ..
fuel supply been checked ..fuel pump pickup screen ? filter changed and also the gauze screen inside the cylinder head been checked and cleaned ? (not enough fuel results in also a low power issue ) we can rule out a blocked air filter
ps is this an auto or a Manuel
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ozzyboydeano
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I was waiting on the calibration engineer to explain
but since we are here
how do we now know using a PWM the temp scale ..as the stock gauge doesn't really tell you much ( there is no scale )
would it not be easier installing an extra temp gauge ?
as for being a engineer (calibration ) I really thought he would educate this forum
but many people get scared when they mention the word engineer means this guy knows his S##T
if this guy is good as he says he should be able to calibrate some of toys of mine ...like speed lidar guns ...this all depends on his engineering skills and I very doubt he can ...... and I bet trying to diagnose a low power issue is beyond his knowledge
maybe throw him a tyre gauge to zero in to keep him happy for a few hours
[/QUOTE]
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sierrafery
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1. that signal is already PWM (as long as it's about the coolant temp gauge)
2. i asked that to be a second oppinion too here while i was thinking to this: Changing ecu
so if its the turbo would a replacement cartridge fix itif your not going to run tests like other members have pointed out you are just chasing your tail..and eveuantually you may get pointed in the wrong direction due to people taking shortcuts you need to start with the basics first
cat has been mentioned many times to be ruled out.... by disconnecting the exhaust and test drive has this been done yet ?
other tests would be to clean all sensors with a solvent specially the small orifice hole that reads boost pressure on the MAP sensor giving the fact the breathing oil mixing with dust (no air filter installed )
boost leaks ..pressure rise the intercooler very easy job just need an old car inner tube and hose clamps and a tyre gauge with compressed air (I know my intercooler doesn't hold pressure for to long due to a slight hair line crack in one of the cores but not enough to give me the S##ts just yet...... but I know I will need a new one soon because eventually it will get worse........ sure my boost gauge will let me know when the intercooler gets to bad as pressure will start to drop over time
waste gate may appear to work but is this actually returning home ? this means a visual check inside the turbo also to make sure the waste gate flap is fully seating ....I have had a few other engines actually break a piece of the gate flap resulting in some of the exhaust to bypass ..also at the same time inspect turbo does the impellors look worn specially on the intake side due to the fact there was no air filter installed .(this would be one of the things I would check first )
the impellor could be worn due to being dusted this means the inducer and exducer of the turbo impellor is now out of spec (boost gauge can help ) and take note when there is best boost compared to RPMS and engine load .... you may find higher RPM to get to the desired boost level this is a compensate for wear instead of making boost down low in the RPM range due to being out of spec hence you cant select another gear
a turbo impellor can reach up to speeds to 80 thousand RPM this is slow compared to many other engines ... so any dust entering the engine the impellor is now shot blasted (dusting)...turbos work on a high tolerance scale so with out knowing the history of the car and how long this engine has ran with out an air filter every one on this forum is in limbo
the EGR I would also like to know how this has been disabled.... has it only been disabled by some one removing the electric solenoids only ? but all the cooler and actuators maybe still in place ..... this doesn't stop a bad worn out seat on the EGR as it can still bypass unsure about this as of yet as there is no mention how the EGR has been deleted ..
fuel supply been checked ..fuel pump pickup screen ? filter changed and also the gauze screen inside the cylinder head been checked and cleaned ? (not enough fuel results in also a low power issue ) we can rule out a blocked air filter
ps is this an auto or a Manuel
ozzyboydeano
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this all depends are the turbo housings also worn ? to be honest you need to run some tests
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ozzyboydeano
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also when you do get some time answer some questions ? give full detail about your EGR on how this is blanked off
auto or Manuel ?
auto or Manuel ?
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1. that signal is already PWM (as long as it's about the coolant temp gauge)
2. i asked that to be a second oppinion too here while i was thinking to this: Changing ecu
1. Yes I know this, but to make it more accurate, you can read the voltage to the ecu from the sensor and make a converter for the dash input.
2. Yeah, I read that post and completely agree with you. If anyone actually looks at what those codes mean, they would understand that they retard and advance timing for the inectors. They are basically telling the ECU the injector characteristics (or to be more specific, it's cal factors).
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ozzyboydeano
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landrover are not the only ones who use slow moving gauges or very limited in scale
would it not just be easier to install a gauge in scale that has a faster response time
If I was to play around and trick voltage readings just wondering would this upset my torque convertor lock up and if I over heat will my engine still cut out
as for injector coding this is normally for emissions as well as the same injectors are used in agriculture for example the 4jx1 diesel engine the tech 2 can have up to 6 grade groups for each injector
unsure how many different grades on the TD5 injector I'm guessing only one the code that is supplied
low performance issues can also suffer just like an injector can also compensate but this is normally easy to spot engine running rough and driver noticing what colour smoke of the exhaust as well as fuel consumption[/QUOTE]
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Yes because you aren't modifying the signal for control purposes.
Your tapping off the line to read the voltage and then send it to the gauge in the instrument cluster.
Do whay you want. I was saying you can get it reading better. I'd prefer the dash than another dial as its less clutter in my opinion.
