Td5 no power

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But why should I rely on some el cheapo little dials on the dashboard?
When I bought my Disco I had already budgeted additional funds for a Nanocom.

Personally I agree that gauges are better than nanocom. But you kinda need both to diagnose engine management issues

well I like to watch my gauges constantly other wise I would have to stick a nanocom on the dash permanently

another think I like to add the nanocom cant do is read fuel pressure
 
If anything, the EGR is the only thing not blocking the cat up haha. But it has other detrimental effects instead which in my opinion are worse than clogging the cat.

Yeah a catch can is useful, but the turbo seals will bleed oil over anyway. Lessening the amount of oil being put through the air intake system is probably best though! :D
the egr actually play a big role on how the cat blocks up ..the engine still has to digest the egr crap via the air intake this also contaminates engine oil now if the cat isn't up to operating temps the cat doesn't work
 
Neither can yours unless you unplug your oil pressure line and fit the fuel pressure line into it. That was how you had it in the vid you made.

We are not flying the space shuttle................:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:

Cheers
there is a thing called a 2nd opinion ... for example I use VCADS diagnostic software at work there are many times we have installed mechanical gauges when drying to diagnose issues ..some times the issue can be a faulty electronic switch giving the laptop low readings a mechanical gauge is now used to compare

the reason I have a fuel pressure gauge installed is due to the fact at the time I was chasing a fuel issue
the gauge used is an oil pressure gauge ..just because the gauge has an oil can symbol it doesn't have to read engine oil
:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D

oh wait diesel is an oil :cool::cool::cool::cool::cool::cool:
 
We are not flying the space shuttle................:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:

Cheers
they both have pros and cons
I may have ONLY 2 gauges on the side post but they actually tell me things even thinking of adding in another gauge (coolant temp ) due to the simple fact the original coolant temp gauge does not move much.... so an external gauge will give more accurate readings :)
using gauges the driver becomes more aware because they are installed full time of how the engine reacts to curtain loads and driving habits... basically we become more custom and diagnosing a issue becomes sooner rather than later

on the flip side
I had combustion washer issues this was allowing exhaust gasses to my fuel system or fuel running back ( hard starting) when I installed my fuel pressure gauge I have drilled into the FPR tapped a thread (this is a permanent install) the gauge has never been used for oil on my engine (just a gauge that I had in my toolbox that was in scale ) ...... I noticed a fluctuation in pressure ... nonocom wont detect.... the same goes to a blocked FPR or dyeing fuel pump:)
over time I have become custom to how much boost RPM and fuel pressure this engine needs... I welly this engine allot as well as spray in LPG for extra power but my coolant gauge does not rise ..this is why I would like another gauge installed..... I have a murphy gage here sitting at home just need time to install
in the mean time my fuel pressure gauge has helped me fix 2 issues first issue has been covered... 2nd issue I had bent the fuel sender float arm removing my fuel pump to clean fuel tank and gauze pick up .... this gave fuel level false reading..... I actually ran out of fuel when my fuel gauge on the dash said I still had 1/8 tank ..... no fuel means no pressure ....the issue was fixed by adding in fuel and setting the float arm height to my desired level

maybe the same issue brian47 has ie fool gauge comment .... but to lazy to fix or hasn't got the brains to how to reset the float arm height
I have set mine so when the fuel light comes on I still have 15 litres of fuel inside the tank.... on empty just before fuel light comes on 20 litres of fuel...or do we need a nonocom to diagnose and fix this issue ? like I say pros and cons
 
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Methinks that there might be a case of information overload here. I have the indicators originally installed by LR, and apart from knowing that the fuel gauge is actually the "fool gauge" and by the time the temperature gauge shows too hot the damage is already done, I don't have to worry about whether I'm getting too much or not enough boost or whether the engine is supplying 130 or 136 bhp. The car drives well and so far I haven't come across a hill that it cannot climb .... yet.

just re reading some comments
the only thing on the dash is the coolant fool gauge
otherwise its the fool behind the steering wheel

have you ever thought about why the fuel gauge is reading wrong ?
 
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they both have pros and cons
I may have ONLY 2 gauges on the side post but they actually tell me things even thinking of adding in another gauge (coolant temp ) due to the simple fact the original coolant temp gauge does not move much.... so an external gauge will give more accurate readings :)
using gauges the driver becomes more aware because they are installed full time of how the engine reacts to curtain loads and driving habits... basically we become more custom and diagnosing a issue becomes sooner rather than later

on the flip side
I had combustion washer issues this was allowing in exhaust gasses to my fuel system or fuel running back ( hard starting) when I installed my fuel pressure gauge I have drilled into the FPR tapped a thread (this is a permanent install) the gauge has never been used for oil on my engine (just a gauge that I had in my toolbox ) ...... I noticed a fluctuation in pressure nonocom wont detect the same goes to a blocked FPR or dyeing fuel pump:)
over time I have become custom to how much boost RPM and fuel pressure this engine needs... I welly this engine allot as well as spray in LPG for extra power but my coolant gauge does not rise ..this is why I would like another gauge installed I have a murphy gage here sitting at home just need time to install
in the mean time my fuel pressure gauge has helped me fix 2 issues first issue has been covered... 2nd issue I had bent the fuel sender float arm removing my fuel pump to clean fuel tank and gauze pick up .... this gave fuel false readings I actually ran out of fuel when my fuel gage on the dash said I still had 1/8 tank ..... no fuel means no pressure

maybe the same issue brian47 has ie fool gauge comment but to lazy to fix or hasn't got the brains to how to reset the float arm height
I have set mine so when the fuel light comes on I still have 10 litres of fuel inside the tank

15 litres of fuel inside the tank.... on empty just before fuel light comes on 20 litres of fuel..

Make up your mind........................:p:p:p:p:p:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:...

Cheers
 
Make up your mind........................:p:p:p:p:p:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:...

Cheers


i had a feeling you where waiting for me to slip up ,,only time you can catch me out LOL your 15 mins of fame
it was 3 years ago give me a break .to be honest I cant remember but did I need a nonocom for this issue ??????? :):):):):):):):):):):):):):):):):):):):):):):)

either way 15 litres rings a bell not that I ever allow my fuel gauge to get this low for curtain reasons
 
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not really into the emojo thing

you can adjust your fuel gauge its not rocket science just saying

or do you want the nonocom to do all the hard yards .... and there is a self adjust feature ?
 
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I think you are right. I think if you are going to do it then go big or go home...........:D:D

So with this in mind, I am just off to order the following gauges.

EGT.
Oil pressure.
Oil temperature.
Coolant.
Turbo pressure.
Tyre pressure sensor and gauge with alarm.
Fuel pressure.
Low coolant level alarm. Siren and led.

Plus just for safety sake I will also have the nanocom fitted.........But my A pillar is going to look awesome....might need my reading glasses to read them tho..


Do you think I got it covered?????? let me know if you can think of anything else...:p:p:p

Cheers
 
I think you are right. I think if you are going to do it then go big or go home...........:D:D

So with this in mind, I am just off to order the following gauges.

EGT.
Oil pressure.
Oil temperature.
Coolant.
Turbo pressure.
Tyre pressure sensor and gauge with alarm.
Fuel pressure.
Low coolant level alarm. Siren and led.

Plus just for safety sake I will also have the nanocom fitted.........But my A pillar is going to look awesome....might need my reading glasses to read them tho..


Do you think I got it covered?????? let me know if you can think of anything else...:p:p:p

Cheers

its actually go hard or go home


stock engine egts ? least priority

oil temp this means a sensor located in the sump as oil looses its viscosity when it reaches a curtain temp (early warning device ) just like an EGT gauge least priority unless you think you need one

oil pressure unless you think the engine oil light is enough to give you time considering there is no oil gauge on the dash

coolant gauge more accuracy instead of the stock gauge (fool gauge ) considering the fool gauge has a murphy type switch connected to the ecu and cut out if it gets to hot ...I know mine does

turbo pressure its always nice to see boost pressure ..instead of just using the RPM gauge ie engine load and throttle position

I have the tyredog 4 sensors only used for long trips and 4wding you can set alarms like high temp low pressure etc comes in very handy,,,, normally I put the wireless hand piece in the low range drive lever pocket alarms set

fuel pressure gauge unless your chasing fuel pressure issues not exactly a priority unless your chasing faults

low coolant alarms they still get a resistance through steam ( been there did that) this is not a gauge this unit can be installed any where in the cab as long as the buzzer sounds and can be heard or where the LED can be seen

you can also fit the nonocom but may need to be well hidden or removed every day /night due to theft reasons

unsure if the nonocom has a memory thing and reboots up to the last screen shot


if you really want to take things further why not monitor drive train temps ???? like some road trains I work on .....if the transmission or clutch load gets to hot this actually derates the engine ......resulting in a cool down period or limp home mode.... bit like the MS lights on a TD5 limp mode

if your eyes cant read a 50mm analogue gauge within the cab area I wonder how many lifes your risking every day while driving
 
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So i towed my caravan last night and this disco is still down on power on hills? thought i had solved it! Does anyone tow with theres? and how do yours pull on hills? from a standing start with caravan on back i couldnt get past 3rd gear up a steady incline, foot more a less right down on accelerator, caravan weighs 1.380kg,
any ideas anyone
 
A call to Mike at Dynachip might be in order here. If everything is OK then he'll do a remap for you which will increase the power out, but if there's anything actually wrong, he'll pick it up and if he can, correct it there and then before applying the remap.
It'll cost you about 250 quid, and he will come to you.
 
Have you checked the injector codes match whats in the ECU, more importantly though, if your suffering these issues and getting the correct boost without "misfires", I'd be checking the cat isn't blocked, you have the right fuel pressure, the fuel filter isn't blocked and that your injector cam followers have been set up correctly.
 
So by changing the injector loom this can affect the coding? its supping alot of diesel too, My defender td5 that i had did better on fuel but i take it thats because it was lighter
 
So by changing the injector loom this can affect the coding? its supping alot of diesel too, My defender td5 that i had did better on fuel but i take it thats because it was lighter

No, changing the loom does not affect the coding. How much fuel is it using?

Cheers
 
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