Disco 2 TD5 immobiliser

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Nanocom is the bee's knees but not cheap.... if you can't afford it a cheaper and quite comprehensive alernative is Foxwell but it seems that even that one has a cheaper alternative with the same functions. Though i can vouch for Foxwell as i tested it myself i can't confirm it's ''clone" named Vident... here's some info Diagnostic Tool Options read from that post untill the end
 
Thanks for that info. Just been reading up on the Nanocom which does look like a decent bit of kit and as far as cost goes I tend to work on the system of "there are no pockets in shrouds" :) Once I can get the Disco started so I can use such a device I might invest, had I have known getting the EKA code was going to be such a hassle I would have invested in one just to get thato_O
 
sierrafery, good news I think. I left the vehicle with the battery disconnected for two days because rain stopped play, and this morning reconnected the battery.
The alarm went off but pressing the 'lock' button on the fob stopped it and locked the doors. Pressing the 'open' button then worked and let me in and I was able to start it.
Does that mean the BCU reset itself? What bothers me is why it stopped communicating with the fob in the first place and if it is likely to do it again maybe I would be better off not to lock it at all.
Am I right in thinking that a Nanocom or Foxwell would enable me to disable the key fob function and just use the key in the good old fashioned way? :)
 
LandyLost said:
Does that mean the BCU reset itself? What bothers me is why it stopped communicating with the fob in the first place
Click to expand...
God knows what happened there, let's hope it's not some intermittent bad contact somewhere and it will kick in again...anyway, while the vehicle is unlocked with the fob the BCU will communicate with tester and then you can disable the alarm/immobiliser and unlock with the key
 
Just taken it for a run to warm it up and perhaps dry it out a bit, so now will wave my debit card at Nanocom and look forward to having a play.
Meanwhile I will not lock it and rely on dogs and shotgun for security .
I have a room dehumidifier unit which I might stand in the back and get rid of some of the damp. If they did the electronics to marine standard
we may not have these problems but of course that would cost a few pence more:(
Thanks for your help very much appreciated.
 
Ouch! Just looked at the Nanocom but went on hold because of the £30 delivery charge, by personal courier I assume?
Now looking at the Foxwell NT650 Elite ($215) or the Ancel X6 ($302) on this review
They seem to do the lot and free delivery or have I missed a catch somewhere? Perhaps I'm getting a little ambitious because the two
main things I want to do with an OBD11 scanner is get the VIN number and disable the alarm/immobiliser function:(
 
Starting problem now back again :-( It has been working OK for a while but the vehicle is not being used as much as I would like due to 'lock down'.
Initially turning the key into the start position had to be done twice before it would start, now it won't start at all. I disconnected the battery for 24 hrs
and on reconnecting she started straight away but after standing overnight same problem occurred. and another overnight stand with battery disconnected
didn't work this time.
All dash lights come on but turning the key to start gives nothing but a faint relay click. Battery charged with Ctek charger and the condition indicator shows
green so battery is OK.
The Nanocom says "ECU Immobilised" (I wish there was a decent user manual for the Nanocom).
I have just discovered neither key fob works at all but failed to find the section where I could disable the key fob function using Nanocom.
 
You can't disable the fob function with nanocom or any other tester... all you can do is to set the ''alarm disarm'' to ''always" or the alarm to ''not fitted", go into engine utility and ''learn security code". If nanocom comunicates with the BCU it's not immobilised so check the small spade connector on the starter solenoid to not be loosen
 
Thanks for your prompt reply. Checking the spade connector involves crawling under the vehicle I assume, I will try on the next fine day
as I'm not as physically fit as I would like to be so I have to time it for a 'good' day :)
I did get a new key fob RF unit but taking the whole rear head lining down would be a bit too much for me and getting assistance is
not possible due to lock down, so that job is on hold for now.
 
LandyLost said:
I did get a new key fob RF unit but taking the whole rear head lining down would be a bit too much for me
Click to expand...
Why? you dont have sunroofs ?
LandyLost said:
Checking the spade connector involves crawling under the vehicle I assume,
Click to expand...
No, you can reach it from the engine bay once you know where it should be also give a tug to the starter with a hammer if it refuses to turn
 
You will know by the light on the dash if its immobilised or not. If it is there's no point in crawling about the starter. :)
 
Thanks EeEk, I take it you mean the red light that normally flashes when the car is standing.
Just knackered myself removing plastic covers to see what's in there and now run out of steam
so I'll have to have another go tomorrow if the rain doesn't stop play.
 
EeEk said:
You will know by the light on the dash if its immobilised or not. If it is there's no point in crawling about the starter. :)
Click to expand...
Unless the setting in the BCU is for "LED off"... as i said as long as nanocom communicates with the BCU and the relay is clicking the main immobiliser which disables the starter is not the issue
 
Rain did stop everything yesterday but today I've had another go.
I can't see the starter solenoid from the top let alone get my arm down there but I have done a test with a meter
and there is a connection from the R2 relay to it. However the relay I can hear clicking when I turn the key to 'start' is not R2,
I removed it and tried again and can still hear what sounds like a relay but can't determine which one.

Nanocom tells me that the ECU status is "robust", and if I select "Get Security Status" it shows as "ECU Immobilized".
Next I did an RF Test with the Nanocom and got "No key signal has been received" with either keys, both batteries are good in the keys.
Does this tend to imply that the RF Receiver is not working, possible due to poor earthing even though there is no sun roof?
 
Does this tend to imply that the RF Receiver is not working, possible due to poor earthing even though there is no sun roof?
Click to expand...
More like because they are ****e
The ecu doesn't Immobilize as such....its always Immobilized...when you try to start the engine it asks the BCM if its allowed to fire the injectors ...if the BCM is immobilized it says no but it also will not crank the engine. If there is no answer from the bcm or the wrong answer (unmatched bcm/ecm) the engine will crank all day but it will not fire up. It will crank.

If the BCM is Immobilized....the ECM will get the DONT START message....so it wont. the bcm will also not crank the engine. You can ignore the ECM....you must get the BCM to turn off the Immobilizer first. The BCM cranks the engine only when the Immobilizer is off.

to turn the Immobilizer off use the key fob...

if the key fob will not operate the Immobilizer.....fix the key fob issue....probably by replacing the rf receiver as its almost always that :)

Reprogramming stuff just confuses you/it.....
 
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The RF receiver must be ruled out, i say again if you can communicate with the BCU is not immobilised cos immobilised BCU won't communicate, simple as that
 
Thank you guys, I am learning a hell of a lot from you for which I thank you very much.
So it seems I've got to get the headlining down (or find someone to do it if it is beyond my
physical ability), replace the RF receiver with the new one I bought when I had the original
starting problem and the vehicle should then start.
I was hoping that if I just didn't use the key fob it would just start as normal and has been
doing so for quite a while, however it has now decided not to so something has changed.
Does that mean that if the BCU is not in contact with the receiver, even without a keyfob signal,
the BCU won't allow a start?
A high resistance rusty earth connection would mean no supply to the receiver and no detection
by the BCU if I understand all this correctly.
 
Having another go at getting this starting problem sorted. Attempted to remove the headlining but not really up to it health wise,
also tried to locate the exact position of the RF Receiver with a view to cutting an access hole in the headlining but as yet have failed
to find its exact location in relation to the center interior light. (remember no sunroof).
If I could move it from it current location to the road a garage will collect it, none of them have a suitable recovery vehicle that can get
up to my place. Is there anyway this immobiliser system can be bypassed with the keyfob receiver not functioning?
 
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