td5 dII ignition

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

disco dickie

Active Member
Posts
241
Location
napier, new zealand
hi guys, hope you can help
just had to get the AA to tow me home, came out mitre 10 mega (b and q) stuck the key in the ignition but couldnt turn it. AA man seems to think that the tumbler had collapsed.
would this prognosis be correct?
how hard is it to do yourself?
what parts would i need?
failing that what sort of money would an english locksmith want to do this repair.
cheers, richard
 
When I had this problem it was an ok fix. I took the barrel off by hitting the security bolts with a center punch to get them turning. Then the switch bit unscrews leaving just the barrel.

I found filling it with a fine grade machine oil and putting the key in and out and working it freed it all up. Been fine for 15 months now. I think the more reccomemded method is graphite powder after cleaning it up with alcohol like an ipa spray, as it's possible for dust to stick to the oil and clog it up again.
 
Another vote for graphite powder - buy some, then dip the key blade in it and insert (fnar fnar!) in the lock and turn a lot, whilst wiggling the steering wheel.
 
cheers lads, i will try that in the morning.
just had a thought, the AA man squirted something in the lock if it was something that dont evaporate will it ruin my chances with the graphite?
 
cheers lads, i will try that in the morning.
just had a thought, the AA man squirted something in the lock if it was something that don't evaporate will it ruin my chances with the graphite?


Any oil or liquid should never be used on a lock because, as said earlier, it attracts muck and HELPS to jam the lock rather than freeing it.

Try the graphite powder and then see if you need to worry.

If it comes down to it, a local locksmith will be able to strip the lock and replace any worn wafers for about £30-ish.
 
I took the whole thing apart a month ago and got rid of all the wafers. Then reassembled everything and it is better then new since.

Easy lob, took 20 minutes while whatching TV
 
After many years of putting the key in and out, the " tumblers ", ( about 12 or so small brass plates that the key " pulls " in flush with the barrel enabling it to rotate within the barrel housing ), wear, to the point that they are not pulled sufficiantly in enough to allow rotation.

I took the ignition barrel off and stripped it right down, filed and straightened the tumblers, taking a small amount off the outside edge of the ones that were most worn.

Cleaned and put it back together, and then stripped the lead out of a pencil and rubbed it on a bit of sand paper. This " powder " is as good as the graphite stuff.

Ahagger,s point about getting rid of all the tumblers, is also an option. The Disco,s security is not in the key blade, so being able to turn the ignition on its own wont start the car. ( without the fob part aswel ).

Del.
 
cheers again lads,
been down graphite powder route this morning to no avail, so started taking the lock out. got as far as taking the plastic cowling off and now im stumped. cant see what comes off next.
oh i have taken the plastic cover off the end of the barrel
 
If you look down on the barrell assy. from the top, you,ll see it is clamped to the steering column by 2 " security " bolts. These can be removed by knocking them anticlockwise with a sharp cold chisel. ( not shear them off ).

If/when you get the assy. out, you need to withdraw the captive pin that stops the barrel from coming out. ( the alloy housing is pressed slightly over the pins flanged head ). I carefully ground this pressing of with a Dremmel.

If you go down this route, make sure the key is in the barrel before you withdraw it from the housing. If you take the key out of the barrel after you have taken it out, the tumblers will fly out.

With the key in the barrel, you should be able to see the worn tumblers, as they stick out from the barrel. These just need filing abit so that they sit flush with the barrels outside.

Del.
 
cheers del, just came back in doors with ignition assembly in my hands and read your post. i mgiht leave the next bit in the hands of a locksmith...:confused: dont want to fook it up as things take longer over here ( must be something to do with being upside down) . its only 12 noon and everyone wants to shut shop
 
had a result, sitting at the the table contemplating my next move, fiddled with the key again and it moved.
took it out , gave it a wipe as is wet with aa mans squirt and applied loads more of my newly aqquired graphite dust.
refitted it all and fired her up. good result all round. turns lovely and only cost me $15
hope it lasts.
cheers boys
 
After many years of putting the key in and out, the " tumblers ", ( about 12 or so small brass plates that the key " pulls " in flush with the barrel enabling it to rotate within the barrel housing ), wear, to the point that they are not pulled sufficiantly in enough to allow rotation.

I took the ignition barrel off and stripped it right down, filed and straightened the tumblers, taking a small amount off the outside edge of the ones that were most worn.

Cleaned and put it back together, and then stripped the lead out of a pencil and rubbed it on a bit of sand paper. This " powder " is as good as the graphite stuff.

Ahagger,s point about getting rid of all the tumblers, is also an option. The Disco,s security is not in the key blade, so being able to turn the ignition on its own wont start the car. ( without the fob part aswel ).

Del.

@ 50pence Thx for explaning what I was talking about, I tried to but ran out of english words pretty quick.

@ Discodickie I hope it will work on your Truck for a while. If it happens again it is an easy on trail repair. Remove the Ignition lock, seperate it from the switch at the opposit end and fire her up by only turning the switch with a screw driver.
 
Any oil or liquid should never be used on a lock because, as said earlier, it attracts muck and HELPS to jam the lock rather than freeing it.

Try the graphite powder and then see if you need to worry.

If it comes down to it, a local locksmith will be able to strip the lock and replace any worn wafers for about £30-ish.

Thanks big lad I never knew that, I have always oiled my ignition thinking I was being clever !!
 
Back
Top