TD4 Water Pump leak

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Irishrover

Well-Known Member
Posts
5,317
Location
La Trimouille, Vienne, France
:behindsofa:
:deadhorse::ballchain:
Noticed over the past couple of days that there has been a small wet patch on the drive. had a look today whilst I was fitting the propshaft/VCU and it's coolant.
After the shafts were finished I started the car and left it running until it had warmed up and noticed a steady drip from a hole in the undertray. Removed the tray and could see a leak on the water pump body. Ordered a new pump and 'stat-should be here on Friday.
I have read a couple of very good posts on here relating to the job and have also had a look on RAVE.
The RAVE procedure involves removing the Camshaft cover and I don't want to do that unless I have to.
One thing I did notice whilst looking through the "Window" where the r.h. track rod comes through the wheel arch is that the corrugated aluminium sleeve over one of the heater hoses has been worn through by one or both of the bolt heads that secure the track rods to the steering rack. Luckily the hose itself is not damaged. I will be bending the bracket that secures the hose to the engine block to increase the clearance.

By the way...it's a 2002, TD4
 
the first thing to do after taking the sump protector of is to get a jack so you can raise and lower the engine ,take the belts off and undo bottom and top engine mounts then you can raise the engine to take the top bolt out and then lower it to take the bottom bolts out and then undo the steel pipe at the back of the engine and then it will pull off .some people have done it differently but this is the way I did it. but before all that check to see if the water is coming out of the pump its self or from where it mates onto the engine ,it might just want tightening up as the seals are the rubber ones ,also while you are at it you might as well put a new thermostat in ,and be very care with the top of the pump as these are like plastic and can easily break
and before you take the belts of either take a picture which I always do or draw a diagram which way the belts go .
hope this helps you out
 
Thats the way I did the job too, engine up, engine down, and extact the pump via the track rod "window".
Don't forget the little "o" ring that seals the pipe into the top of the thermostat housing, and the bolts that hold the pump on are those silly internal star headed ones, I replaced mine with proper cap headed set screws!
Good luck, it's a fiddly little job!

Chris.
 

:behindsofa:

Did a separate post to this last year relating to the leak which turned out to be the water pump.
Pain in the ass to do but I also had problems after removing the injectors and sending them for overhaul at a specialist Bosch Company...The car ran like a bag of nails afterwards and it turned out that one of the injectors was leaking internally. End result was the fault injector was reworked and the car has been running fine since without any coolant loss or performance problems. :D
 
:behindsofa:

Did a separate post to this last year relating to the leak which turned out to be the water pump.
Pain in the ass to do but I also had problems after removing the injectors and sending them for overhaul at a specialist Bosch Company...The car ran like a bag of nails afterwards and it turned out that one of the injectors was leaking internally. End result was the fault injector was reworked and the car has been running fine since without any coolant loss or performance problems. :D

Cheers :)

Only asking as I have this to do on the wifes car when I get the bit's !
 
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