TD4. Starter Motor. Problem

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MULDERKE

MULDERKE

Well-Known Member
Posts
708
Location
No Mans Land
Hello all.
Did an over haul of the starter motor about two years ago. With a kit from ebay,changed the plunger (my name for it)and the copper connections inside the motor. All good.
Lately when i turn the key, nothing some times. I tightened the connection on the side of the starter, the one that the main cable from the battery fits onto. that worked for a while, but now it would seem the nut is tight but actual stud in to the starter still turns. if I tap it lightly on the stud with a spanner it starts no problem.
My question is, if I take the starter off can I tighten the stud and refit the starter? Or would I be better off getting a second hand unit off *bay and swapping my bits over.
Or just get a new starter of *bay, end of.
Any advice and recommendations welcome as always, and much appreciated.
Thanks for your time on this in advance.
Cheers, Gary.
 
Hello James.
The starter spins very strong, Its just the this connection post that doesn't want to be tight in the starter. Other than that it works fine. Any advice welcome.
Cheers.
 
Thanks Paul99
But before I go there, was looking to find out if the stud that the cable from the Batt can be tightened with out removing it from the car. If not, then it means stripping the motor.

Cheers
 
You can buy a second hand starter for about £25, so that's the route I'd take. Fit your contactor set and plunger to it, when it arrives. Parts for Denso starters are impossible to get, which is why I made a new insulator for mine, when the bolt broke.
Screenshot_20200921-162500_Gallery.jpg
 
Last edited:
I'm 100% sure the starter is the same for both, as the starter is on the engine, not the gearbox.

Edit.
There's only one PN listed.
20200922_195404.jpg
 
Last edited:
Erm well.just looked at the pics when i did the job, and can make out what could be the tab connector. I am sure I never connected it. Would the starter still work??
Freelander Jobs 009.jpg
 
MULDERKE said:
Erm well.just looked at the pics when i did the job, and can make out what could be the tab connector. I am sure I never connected it. Would the starter still work??View attachment 219823
Click to expand...

The insulated spade carrier is there. There's no need to touch it when changing the contactor set.

On my FL2, the spade is replaced with a bolt, which broke off as I unscrewed the but.:oops:
So I had to make up a new nylon insulator, as the original part wasn't available.

If your spade contactor has broken off, then you'll need to replace the starter, unless you can make up a new connector, and solder it in.
 
Hello Nodge68.
Thanks for your time on this.
With a mirror and torch, it would seem I did connect the spade connector back up, and it Is secure. So, Given it's the stud I tap when the starter won't work, and the the nut holding the cable from the battery, should Ihave cleaned it up better when fitting the new repair kit?
Is there a way, when the starter is removed and stripped, of making tight the stud? So making the starter ok.
Hope I'm not over asking....
Big thanks. With colder weather on the way, and uncertain times ahead. Really need this car to be reliable. For me and family. Even if it means buying a back up starter.
Cheers.
 
You should be able to tighten the nut with the starter in situ. The electrical connection is made with a copper bolt, which pinches against the contactor as the outer nut is tightened up.
 
Thanks Nodge68.
The nut is tight and any further attempt twists the whole thing, so, Got a bit of sand paper and cleaned the spade connector and replaced the plug. So far its continued to work as normal. If things change, I'll get another.
Big Thanks to those that have contributed.
Great Forum!
 
UP DATE.
Thanks . As it it goes...since cleaning the spade connector with some light sand paper/emery cloth and a wipe, all has been good!
Which for me, I should know at my age...Do the basic's first..

ALL IS WELL THAT ENDS WELL.

Cheers all.
 
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