TD4 no go no hope

Hi again, after renewing the injectors and the Hp pump, cam sensor changed the wiring for the common rail sensor and the sensor my Landy ran for 5000Km like a dream. No smoke or coffing plenty of power, started streight away. Thanks to your forum for all the great information.
The car has now stopped starting. It first would not start after shopping but after an hour it did start ran perfect for about 5km then during the drive the engine just cut out in a corner. Got the girl towed home and it just would not start. The following day tried it for hours and eventuall it started, I was happy so I switched it of and changed the break light bulb which was also brocken.
Since then the car has not started, I have checked everything I know, only the crankshaft sensor I have not changed. I have pressure from my low pressures fuel pump. Have checked the solenoid and seal on thr HP pump, new cam sensor, change the wireing on the common rail sensor. When I use easystart it does fire but only so long as I spray into the airfilter.
I'm now at a loss, dont know what else I can do. Would much appreciate any help.im finding it impossible to locate the error. Thanks

You've come to the right place Wayne. I'm reluctant to recommend posting on LandyZone in the NZ Group in case it upsets those that put their effort in to set it up - but the knowledge is here.

Your only issue is that there is probably a thread each day on here from people who can't get their TD4 to start in very similar circumstances to yours - so I just hope the members have some will left to help another!

Wayne has been fighting this for almost 2 months now. The only "fix" that has worked is the purchase of a Toyota Hilux - so he is desperate to find a better solution

When it failed originally after the shopping trip, it did start , but simply stopped after a few seconds. Then failed again as he says after a few KMs. As he says, it has started a few times since, but not run for any length of time and I'm not sure when it last started.

Given the first couple of instances where it just cut out - my initial suggestion was that the ignition switch was faulty. However, as Wayne commented - it does turn over indicating the switch is working, it just won't catch. I don't believe Wayne has changed it.

He's had problems with it cutting out and not starting - so I'm not sure that either the cam or crank sensor is faulty.

They guy has put a lot of effort in to try and get this started - so I'm sure help will be appreciated!

What year is it?

2004 Facelift. Done 330,000 kms (200K miles) but other than this problem has been running well evidently.

Fuel pump in tank n in engine Bay? sounds like it's getting no fuel if it fires while spraying easy start.

Has the low pressure fuel pump been checked? It's under the RH rear arch.

When it fails to start, can you hear the fuel pump running?

Sudden stops could be crank sensor. A diagnostic scan while it’s not working might help.

Thanks very much for you response. And yes you are very right when you say I am desperate because I am at the moment using a Toyota, I know it’s terrible, terrible.

I tested the LP fuel pump by removing the pipe leading into the HP pump placed another long pipe on to it and put the other end of the pipe into a container to collect the diesel. When the ignition was on the quantity of fuel pumping out was very good. I then held the end of the pipe with my thumb over it and there was good pressure, sorry but I don't have any special pressure testing tools. So I thing the LP pump is fine.

The Crankshaft sensor
when I took of the starter motor I seen that it was not in tightly, the retaining screw had come loose (at this point I got my hopes up) so after cleaning it and putting everything back together still wouldn’t fire. Would the Crankshaft sensor stop the engine from firing? It’s the only item I have not changed on the engine.

Back to the ignition switch
could this be the problem? I thought because the engine turns over it is OK or am I wrong and should best replace it? I have not done this yet.

Is there a way to check if the computer is at fault? I could take it to LR but after investing so much into her I have to be careful now or the missus will have my Ba...s on a plate.

I have bought a diagnostic tester but unfortunately it seems LR are very particular which ones will work correctly when plugged in. I get some readings but not many. Common rail pressure is always at 0 bar. I don't know if this is correct or the tool is not reading correctly.
To try and test the common rail pressure I loosened a diesel connection pipe on the rail and turned on the ignition. Diesel flowed out, this would be pressure from the LP pump. I then tightened the connection until it stopped and cranked the engine. Diesel came out again, this I take it is the high pressure pump. I cannot say what the pressures are but there is diesel.

Just to recap on events the car first would not start after a shopping trip. When it did start it shortly afterwords cutout. Now it wont start at all, is does crank. I do believe I can smell the fuel burning when I'm cranking it!

Thanks guys

When it was running was it lumpy at all of any smoke

Expulsion be Cam shaft sensor as it was running and when they came back to it ,it would not start typical cam shaft sensor

The LP pump can fail intermittently - a bad commutator segment and it won’t run. You’d turn the key to II and not hear it run, but give it a thump and off it goes. There’s also the relay and general wiring - that’s why we need to know if you can hear it run when the engine won’t start.

It’s worth changing the crank sensor. And don’t assume a new cam sensor is good, either.

A leaky injector could be dropping the rail pressure and preventing starting. Look up ‘leak back test’ on here.

Hi, Yes I can hear the pump when I turn the key always.
The car was running perfect no lumps or bumps, no smoke before it stopped. I have just replaced the Injectors and HP pump.
I will replace the crank sensor to rule it out and do another leak back test, may be one has failed.
Could it be one of the air intake sensor or MAF.
If it turns over could it still be the ignition switch? it turns over so but is the ignition switch connecting the ecm correctly.

Thanks

Guys

If you un plug the maff and the maff is this issue it would run . but it wouldn't run perfect . so its worth in plugging and trying to start it. Failed maff = flat spots /not revving to maximum revs and failing to start . but unplugging it the engine will start. It just won't run perfect

Have you got another key to try?

are the glow plugs OK?

I doubt it’s MAF - the engine will start and run without it. Glow plugs should be ruled out by it failing to run after easystart.

Ignition switch/ECM - do you have multimeter or noid light you could use to check the injectors are being activated? Might be useful to check for cam and crank signals, too.

Is the HP fuel regulator plugged in properly?

guineafowl21 said:

It’s worth changing the crank sensor. And don’t assume a new cam sensor is good, either.

A leaky injector could be dropping the rail pressure and preventing starting. Look up ‘leak back test’ on here.

Click to expand...

My thoughts exactly, have known these be the cause on several occasions.

Ok, Ill unplug the maff and use a different key.
I have a software from another thread to use my laptop as a oscilloscope, Injectors, cam sensor, crank sensor for output signals when cranking.
I know the issue with not having the HP fuel regulator plugged in correctly, thanks but that also cost me a week.
I'll also do another leak back test, could be a stuck injector even though they are new.
As soon as I have this done I'll get back to you guys.

Thanks again for your support.

Hi mate i feel your pain. I've been through exactly what you have. After changing the HP pump, all the injectors, the cam sensor and fitting the overlay harness to the fuel rail pressure sensor I still had a no start. Mine would run on easy start and die straight away.

Then the following things were done at the same time;

I removed the solenoid from my original pump and replaced the seals and fitted this to the refurbished pump I'd fitted previously. I replaced the fuel rail pressure sensor and also replaced the two rubber hoses that come off the HP pump with genuine hoses as the straight ones I'd fitted had kinked slightly due to the 90 degrees bend. Once done, it started first time and ran sweet as a nut. I will never know which of those three things cured the problem which is annoying, but it's running better than ever.

If you still have your old HP pump I'd take the solenoid off that and put it on the new one to start with and see how you get on from there.

Maybe having a look at my thread would help you