Td4 lower engine mount

Hi

I have been attempting to replace the engine tie mount at the rear of my 2004 td4 auto. I have been unable to remove the bolt at the large end of the tie as it catches on the ird. I have tried lifting the engine with a jack but this hasn't given it enough room to be withdrawn. Anybody had the same issue?

That's wierd. I've taken them off of K & L Series Freelanders and I'm sure the bolt just comes straight out. Both times have been to remove the IRD - but can remember with the K Series I took that bolt out, then put it back in so the engine didn't rock so much when I undid all the IRD mounting bolts.

The tie bar needs to be out of the way to remove the IRD, so it must come out with the IRD in place. I'm confused!

Thanks. Yes and I was expecting a simple half hour job! Maybe Landrover altered the design of later irds? I tried lifting and pushing the engine from different angles and have not been able to get the clearance. I will have a look at upper engine mounts -maybe they are incorrect for the model.

The IRDs didn't change - they're shared between TD4, K & L Series as are the prop shafts and although the drive shafts are different, I recon that's just because of different hubs - so it should be in the same position on all 3 variants.

If you don't get any other replies with possible reasons, I'll go and have a look at how much clearance there is on the L Series - can't on the K cos its in bits - but can measure the bolt length to see if one that's to long has found its way onto your car.

Thanks. I guess I may have to move the ird to get it out -it could be a big day!

I don't think you can move the IRD, you have to remove the tie bar before you can remove the IRD. If you loosen the IRD, the only way you're going to be able to move it is closer to the tie bar. I see the end of the bar that mounts to the IRD support bracket is undone - if you put the bolt back in there, does it not rotate the IRD up sufficiently to get the big bolt out? You could loosen the subframe to lower it, but that sounds a bit drastic!

Thanks. I have tried with the smaller end bolt in and removed but neither way gives enough clearance. Had a look at the subframe and it looks like a big job! Will walk away and come back in an hour or so for a fresh look.

Well I got it out. I jacked up the engine, removed the bolt from the ird mount side, and levered up the mount providing enough angle to extract it. Replaced the mount and taken for a test drive -got rid of a horrible vibration at around 1700 rpm. Still unsure why my engine is sitting lower than normal.
Thanks GrumpyGel for your help

Did you replace it with a poly bush? I tried one and it was too stiff and caused vibration, I had to revert to a standard type in the end. I also struggled removing the bolt, when I refitted it I ground the flanges of the nut head of the bolt and used a washer instead.

Rimini-Scott said:

Did you replace it with a poly bush? I tried one and it was too stiff and caused vibration, I had to revert to a standard type in the end. I also struggled removing the bolt, when I refitted it I ground the flanges of the nut head of the bolt and used a washer instead.

Click to expand...

Hi. I replaced it with the standard rubber? mount. I had read on here that the poly bush had caused vibration issues with the td4 so went for the original.

The poly bush is to hard for the TD4. The vibration amplitude is to great for the bush to damp out. The 1.8 K series is just acceptable but the V6 makes no real noticeable vibration due to its silky smooth operation.
If the Poly bush is your thing then for use on the diesel, the bush needs to be modified. The idea is to make it softer for the first few mm of movement, to damp out the vibration.