ursinecotcher
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It's running absolutely fine with the new pump btw. Happily revving up in all gears and reaching a most definitely legal 70mph with ease.
Td4 Lack of power at 70mph - fixed !
- Thread starter Kungfu0210
- Start date
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wazimu0
Member
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- Centre of Britain!!!
Great to hear. When you say fuel pump, I assume you mean the one inside the rear wheel arch? I've got one on order and a new filter to go on too.
eBay item number:
222719164410
I really hope that fixes it... otherwise I'm stumped.
I'm expecriencing this exact same loss of power and acceleration at speed - but on a 57 Freelander 2 TD4. No black smoke or dash light warnings (edit: engine management now continuous amber). Does the solenoid fix also apply to the '2'? All the comments so far are about the Freelander 1?
I'm on a 1200km trek across Spain from Portugal with one third to go and struggling to get home before dark. Currently snowing (yes, in Spain!) and don't want to get under the car until somewhere dry. So could it be the solenoid issue on this model?
I'm on a 1200km trek across Spain from Portugal with one third to go and struggling to get home before dark. Currently snowing (yes, in Spain!) and don't want to get under the car until somewhere dry. So could it be the solenoid issue on this model?
Last edited:
888
Member
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aha... I think ours is just starting to do this..... thanks for this post
Finca Laurentiu
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i have a Freelander 2 HSE 2008 2.2 engine diesel 112KW with 147k km..and i m verry disapointed and dont know more what we can do…here is my problem
If the car stay still there is no problem at all,we can accelerate from 100rpm to 4000 rpm all day no problems at all but when i go with the car somewhere between 2000-3000 on automatic i receive power engine reduced,the gear is changing but i cant go far and i get power engine reduced..if i go on manual and pass over 3000 rpm lets say in 2 gear and with 3500 rpm is going ok …
first i receive p0131 error i changed with 0281004564 part no bosh o2 lambda sensor(i hope this one is ok because at the store they told me there are 2 sensors same thing one longer one shorter i mean the wire and i was buying the expensive one…)
the turbo i send it to specialists they changed all inside,test it all is ok
we dont know what to do more…
now i have 2 errors
P0131 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 1
and p0299 turbo…but this one is like new…
If the car stay still there is no problem at all,we can accelerate from 100rpm to 4000 rpm all day no problems at all but when i go with the car somewhere between 2000-3000 on automatic i receive power engine reduced,the gear is changing but i cant go far and i get power engine reduced..if i go on manual and pass over 3000 rpm lets say in 2 gear and with 3500 rpm is going ok …
first i receive p0131 error i changed with 0281004564 part no bosh o2 lambda sensor(i hope this one is ok because at the store they told me there are 2 sensors same thing one longer one shorter i mean the wire and i was buying the expensive one…)
the turbo i send it to specialists they changed all inside,test it all is ok
we dont know what to do more…
now i have 2 errors
P0131 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 1
and p0299 turbo…but this one is like new…
I had the same problem, starting with the same split hose, and I was pulling a caravan at the time.
I replaced the Turbo Boost Solinoid and the MAF as well.
I checked all the joints on the hoses (now replaced) and it runs sweet, pulling lots of weight up really steep hills in 5th with ease.
I bought all the spares on Ebay, and still do.
I replaced the Turbo Boost Solinoid and the MAF as well.
I checked all the joints on the hoses (now replaced) and it runs sweet, pulling lots of weight up really steep hills in 5th with ease.
I bought all the spares on Ebay, and still do.
Finca Laurentiu
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Hello friend you have freelander 2 too? same car?
No, a Freelander 1, a TD4, but the running systems and theories are very similar in their nature.
And that's the thing, with Land Rovers, the running systems often overlap enough to learn from the experience of others with different models to teach & educate what can be done to fix similar problems, in order to repair what might seem like an impossible to fix fault.
And that's where LandyZone has the edge.
And that's the thing, with Land Rovers, the running systems often overlap enough to learn from the experience of others with different models to teach & educate what can be done to fix similar problems, in order to repair what might seem like an impossible to fix fault.
And that's where LandyZone has the edge.
Finca Laurentiu
New Member
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Hi friend , finally i was to Land Rover service and it found the first hose from intercooler was splited...so strange no noises no smoke ...and my error was only when was driving...only then...was fantastic but finaly have resolve the problem....i m so proud car is running now well
moz
Member
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- 25
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- Shropshire
Worth checking the wires going to the turbo boost solenoid. They are quite fragile and break but soldering them back together is a cheap fix.
Finca Laurentiu
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Hi,now i have another problem after i fix the hose from throtlle body to intercooler(that was splited) but now i have same problem(power engine reduced with p0299 turbo error) but only over when i m runing over 110 km/h ... i change till now - dpf presure sensor,temperature sensor,recon turbo,maf sensor,lambda sensor,egr check,throtlle body check....i dont know what to seek anymore...any ideas?
maybe start a new thread for the issue ..
( people might not see this readily )
and .. state what engine .. and which model freelander ..
( edit ) .. ok seen previous posts .. so it's an FL2 ..
a new thread might get more responses ..
( as this thread were previously about the turbo solenoid on the FL1 td4 diesel )
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
My car did the same as yours on the motor way only that now the engine won’t turn over and the AA says the engine has seized. An independent click a Machanic came out to my home and turn the key but nothing. He did the same as the AA man. He did not take out anything or try to turn the car over manually. However, I am getting mixed messages about purchasing another engine without really knowing if the engine has really seized. Any advice welcome.Hello all, just thought i'd update you on the cause of my lack of power issues with my Td4 03MY in case it helps anyone.
I initially had a split turbo hose whilst on the M6. It was the short 90 deg hose. Symptoms were initially lack of power, and then black smoke and air whistling sounds. Bought a new one of those for under a tenner and fitted it.
Unfortunately it didn't fix the lack of power over 70mph, but at least there was now no smoke. Symptoms now were that on a slight gradient on the motorway the car would start to lose power and thus speed. There was also a slight noise but not the same as the air noise from the split before.
The Td4 turbo is variable geometry and is controlled by the boost solenoid (see black plastic unit in the picture). It applies a vacuum to the turbo via pipe 1 in the photo. When the vacuum is applied the turbo exhaust side vanes close and it uses more exhaust gas to provide more boost.
My solenoid had failed so that it constantly applied vacuum to the turbo, and thus operated it at max boost all of the time. What then happens is that when you get a high speed / load condition i.e. 70mph and a hill, the ecu senses that the turbo is over boosting and derates the engine by cutting the fuel in order to protect it from damage. It will then speed up again when you get back onto the flat.
The solenoid is STC4198, cost £34, took 15mins to fit (don't need undertray off). Fitted and all working perfectly now.
So if you have lack of power on hills at 70mph, try this test. Pull pipe 1 off the turbo and drive a 70mph hill and see if it cures your issue. If it does, voila it's the boost solenoid. With the pipe off it will be a little sluggish at low speed accels as it won't be able to close the vanes for full boost, but it's fine to drive in order to do your 70mph test.
For info pipe 1 is solenoid vacuum to turbo, pipe 2 is vac supply to solenoid from the plastic reservoir at the side of the engine, pipe 3 is the solenoid vent to fresh air via the little filter. Check these for holes as they rub various engine parts. Also worth checking that your boost solenoid filter isn't blocked, as this would prevent the solenoid from releasing the vacuum and cause the same symptom. Fair chance it's ok though and your solenoid is bust.
Good luck !
Start a new thread in the general Freelander forum, as your fault isn't related to this thread.
diveandy
Member
- Posts
- 34
A tale with a happy ending that may help others.. Having had this problem in the past and fixing with new vacuum hoses (perished to hell) and new turbo solenoid, when the missus' hippo lost all oomph this week my heart sank. Cut back in again a couple of times but then stayed with about same power as pushing a wet bit of string. Not again! Felt like no turbo all the time not just after periods of hill/hard towing... and we're miles from home on holiday.
Further investigation though showed it was actually in limp mode. No codes showing on generic ODBII reader, but vacuum all fine (if it was knackered turbo would be on full beans all the time right?) and actuator moving - MAP sensor readings looking fine. Suspected fuel pump or sensors as next stop. So down to friendly indy LR specialist to put his sooperdooper telemetry reader on it - on spec, not appointment - no problem - let's check it out. No reading at all on high pressure fuel rail sensor. Oh dear - new sensor plus wiring loom repair kit = £££. Oh well, got to be done.
Got down there next day after parts arrived and when they went to fit found the loom wiring to the existing sensor was pinched between block and manifold & damaged. So they just repaired it! £4 of wire and a wee bit of labour and totally sorted! Very pleasant surprise & one happy bunny!! Would a main dealer do that? Big thanks to the good people at Steve Toyer in Cornwall.
Further investigation though showed it was actually in limp mode. No codes showing on generic ODBII reader, but vacuum all fine (if it was knackered turbo would be on full beans all the time right?) and actuator moving - MAP sensor readings looking fine. Suspected fuel pump or sensors as next stop. So down to friendly indy LR specialist to put his sooperdooper telemetry reader on it - on spec, not appointment - no problem - let's check it out. No reading at all on high pressure fuel rail sensor. Oh dear - new sensor plus wiring loom repair kit = £££. Oh well, got to be done.
Got down there next day after parts arrived and when they went to fit found the loom wiring to the existing sensor was pinched between block and manifold & damaged. So they just repaired it! £4 of wire and a wee bit of labour and totally sorted! Very pleasant surprise & one happy bunny!! Would a main dealer do that? Big thanks to the good people at Steve Toyer in Cornwall.
This thread fixed my ‘55 plate TD4 SE!
I found myself running late during a very unrealistic and tight time schedule and as a result the Freelander received a damn good thrashing along a 20 mile section dual carriageway (90mph+) with several roundabouts (frequent, hard acceleration).
I’d just filled up with premium diesel so in my head I was ‘clearing the pipes’. The Freelander never missed a beat and no lights appeared.
A few days later, at 70mph, the yellow/amber engine management light with the ‘!’ pinged on and it went into limp mode. As I slowed down to turn off the dual carriageway the light went out & normal service resumed.
It continued to appear and disappeared for the next few days, at about 70mph, so I joined this wonderful forum to search for a solution.
I tried KungFu’s diagnosis of taking the pipe off and driving it up to 70mph and it did as he said it would, a bit of black smoke on acceleration and no engine management light to be seen. I reattached the vacuum pipe and tested it again, at 70mph the engine management light with the ‘!’ reappeared.
I picked up the solenoid STC4198 from Inchcape Landrover for £84 (there are alternative suppliers but I couldn’t wait!)
I crawled under, swapped it out and road tested it. It accelerated fine up to 70mph and beyond with no warning lights to be seen!
Problem solved, in this case
I would just add that when changing it over, it’s best to disconnect all the pipes and the wired connector BEFORE unbolting the old solenoid from the engine (dunno why I did that!) The wired connector is released by squeezing the metal clip into the connector and pulling the connector away from the solenoid.
Thanks KungFu for the valuable info & pics, good work sir
I found myself running late during a very unrealistic and tight time schedule and as a result the Freelander received a damn good thrashing along a 20 mile section dual carriageway (90mph+) with several roundabouts (frequent, hard acceleration).
I’d just filled up with premium diesel so in my head I was ‘clearing the pipes’. The Freelander never missed a beat and no lights appeared.
A few days later, at 70mph, the yellow/amber engine management light with the ‘!’ pinged on and it went into limp mode. As I slowed down to turn off the dual carriageway the light went out & normal service resumed.
It continued to appear and disappeared for the next few days, at about 70mph, so I joined this wonderful forum to search for a solution.
I tried KungFu’s diagnosis of taking the pipe off and driving it up to 70mph and it did as he said it would, a bit of black smoke on acceleration and no engine management light to be seen. I reattached the vacuum pipe and tested it again, at 70mph the engine management light with the ‘!’ reappeared.
I picked up the solenoid STC4198 from Inchcape Landrover for £84 (there are alternative suppliers but I couldn’t wait!)
I crawled under, swapped it out and road tested it. It accelerated fine up to 70mph and beyond with no warning lights to be seen!
Problem solved, in this case
I would just add that when changing it over, it’s best to disconnect all the pipes and the wired connector BEFORE unbolting the old solenoid from the engine (dunno why I did that!) The wired connector is released by squeezing the metal clip into the connector and pulling the connector away from the solenoid.
Thanks KungFu for the valuable info & pics, good work sir
No calibration needed. Just remove old one and replace with new. 15 mins tops
