And Final Update. Swaped the solenoid with one from another TD4 and works perfect again. Problem seems solved. Hace already ordered one and hopefully will not take long to arrive.
Td4 Lack of power at 70mph - fixed !
- Thread starter Kungfu0210
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Just done this on my new freelander!
What a difference, boost now comes in at 2k rpm instead of 3500rpm and cr pulls from low down!
No more dangerous guesswork pulling out of junctions and 30 - 50mph is fantastic now.
Thanks for this tip and saved me a whole world of pita and cash!
What a difference, boost now comes in at 2k rpm instead of 3500rpm and cr pulls from low down!
No more dangerous guesswork pulling out of junctions and 30 - 50mph is fantastic now.
Thanks for this tip and saved me a whole world of pita and cash!
bperfrement
New Member
- Posts
- 1
- Location
- Canterbury, Kent
Thanks so much for this great post! I had exactly the same symptoms on my 2004 MY TD4 HSE; black smoke and loss of power around 70 mph. I read this and followed the guidance and now no smoke and no power issues 
Thanks again
Thanks again
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 26,532
- Location
- Christchurch, New Zealand
All the best Freelanders reside in Canterbury
stefan7n
Active Member
- Posts
- 108
- Location
- South East UK
Hello all, just thought i'd update you on the cause of my lack of power issues with my Td4 03MY in case it helps anyone.
I initially had a split turbo hose whilst on the M6. It was the short 90 deg hose. Symptoms were initially lack of power, and then black smoke and air whistling sounds. Bought a new one of those for under a tenner and fitted it.
Unfortunately it didn't fix the lack of power over 70mph, but at least there was now no smoke. Symptoms now were that on a slight gradient on the motorway the car would start to lose power and thus speed. There was also a slight noise but not the same as the air noise from the split before.
The Td4 turbo is variable geometry and is controlled by the boost solenoid (see black plastic unit in the picture). It applies a vacuum to the turbo via pipe 1 in the photo. When the vacuum is applied the turbo exhaust side vanes close and it uses more exhaust gas to provide more boost.
My solenoid had failed so that it constantly applied vacuum to the turbo, and thus operated it at max boost all of the time. What then happens is that when you get a high speed / load condition i.e. 70mph and a hill, the ecu senses that the turbo is over boosting and derates the engine by cutting the fuel in order to protect it from damage. It will then speed up again when you get back onto the flat.
The solenoid is STC4198, cost £34, took 15mins to fit (don't need undertray off). Fitted and all working perfectly now.
So if you have lack of power on hills at 70mph, try this test. Pull pipe 1 off the turbo and drive a 70mph hill and see if it cures your issue. If it does, voila it's the boost solenoid. With the pipe off it will be a little sluggish at low speed accels as it won't be able to close the vanes for full boost, but it's fine to drive in order to do your 70mph test.
For info pipe 1 is solenoid vacuum to turbo, pipe 2 is vac supply to solenoid from the plastic reservoir at the side of the engine, pipe 3 is the solenoid vent to fresh air via the little filter. Check these for holes as they rub various engine parts. Also worth checking that your boost solenoid filter isn't blocked, as this would prevent the solenoid from releasing the vacuum and cause the same symptom. Fair chance it's ok though and your solenoid is bust.
Good luck !
Thanks for the update. I'll bear it in mind if (when) my freelander goes wrong.
tsm64
New Member
- Posts
- 6
- Location
- Méthamis - Provence
Thanks to all for your input. My Freelander seems to suffer similar symptoms. This morning, after reading all contributions, I ordered the MAP, the MAT, the turbo boost control solenoid valve and the crankcase breather filter. It'll be like new...
That should solve it. But next time check each by testing as its more expensive replacing everything when some might not be the issue. Still hope it cures it.
tsm64
New Member
- Posts
- 6
- Location
- Méthamis - Provence
I bought the car a couple of years ago, it is a May 2002 model and looks like some maintenance is really needed. It is used in a very rough environment to go hunting. I'll take next week off, will replace the parts, one after the other and test the vehicle at each step. Thus I'll know what incidence each part has on the engine's performance and will be able to report the progress here. Having ordered all parts, I'll have them along for my maintenance day. I won't have to wait after each step the required shipping week. Thanks for the support. Good day.
Freelanderandy
Member
- Posts
- 11
- Location
- Hertfordshire
Yes it would be nice to know
Lots of faults can affect engine running. The low pressure pump can cause lack of power and put the MIL on. The fuel rail sensor can also cause issues. There was an overlay harness available for the rail sensor to correct a problem with the harness.
Duff injectors can cause issues too. These can often be cleaned with a decent fuel system cleaner. Poor quality fuel can cause issues too.
Antony Melody
New Member
- Posts
- 2
- Location
- Hants
Loosing power going up hill - remedy for me was a new turbo hose - the old one had collapsed in on itself.
Larahausp1
Member
- Posts
- 88
- Location
- Halesowen
What sound was it making when mine is under load towing or going over 45 it sounds like vacuum noise could this be my problem. As soon as you come off accelerator it stopsHello all, just thought i'd update you on the cause of my lack of power issues with my Td4 03MY in case it helps anyone.
I initially had a split turbo hose whilst on the M6. It was the short 90 deg hose. Symptoms were initially lack of power, and then black smoke and air whistling sounds. Bought a new one of those for under a tenner and fitted it.
Unfortunately it didn't fix the lack of power over 70mph, but at least there was now no smoke. Symptoms now were that on a slight gradient on the motorway the car would start to lose power and thus speed. There was also a slight noise but not the same as the air noise from the split before.
The Td4 turbo is variable geometry and is controlled by the boost solenoid (see black plastic unit in the picture). It applies a vacuum to the turbo via pipe 1 in the photo. When the vacuum is applied the turbo exhaust side vanes close and it uses more exhaust gas to provide more boost.
My solenoid had failed so that it constantly applied vacuum to the turbo, and thus operated it at max boost all of the time. What then happens is that when you get a high speed / load condition i.e. 70mph and a hill, the ecu senses that the turbo is over boosting and derates the engine by cutting the fuel in order to protect it from damage. It will then speed up again when you get back onto the flat.
The solenoid is STC4198, cost £34, took 15mins to fit (don't need undertray off). Fitted and all working perfectly now.
So if you have lack of power on hills at 70mph, try this test. Pull pipe 1 off the turbo and drive a 70mph hill and see if it cures your issue. If it does, voila it's the boost solenoid. With the pipe off it will be a little sluggish at low speed accels as it won't be able to close the vanes for full boost, but it's fine to drive in order to do your 70mph test.
For info pipe 1 is solenoid vacuum to turbo, pipe 2 is vac supply to solenoid from the plastic reservoir at the side of the engine, pipe 3 is the solenoid vent to fresh air via the little filter. Check these for holes as they rub various engine parts. Also worth checking that your boost solenoid filter isn't blocked, as this would prevent the solenoid from releasing the vacuum and cause the same symptom. Fair chance it's ok though and your solenoid is bust.
Good luck !
Madmustang
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 1,649
- Location
- Castleford
bodgit and leggit have done a video which might help with this sort of this
MollyNomad
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 505
- Location
- Scotland
When the MAF is tested the car needs to be running whilst the MAF is removed otherwise you experience the 'no start' issue IIRC!!
MollyNomad
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 505
- Location
- Scotland
actually quite like Leon and his 'Freelander Farkles'.....'It's a 'JEEP' .....SORRRTED!!!'
Alibro
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 7,212
- Location
- Northern Ireland
Just don't follow his method for replacing the fuel filter. He did it from below instead of the correct way through the wheel arch. Total botch job.
I find the bodges infuriating tbh. And a Freelander is LAND ROVER. NOT A F...ING JEEP!!!
In all seriousness. That boost pipe clip is easy to remove with a sharp bladed chisel and a hammer. A couple of taps to cut the clip and it's off, so the faulty hose can be replaced with a new one, making sure the new clip is oriented to a position where it can be tightened. Why spend hours looking for bits of metal tubing to bodge it. It looks horrible and won't be as reliable as a new replacement hose anyway. Yes maybe if you are stuck in the desert with few spares, do that bodge. But any self respecting garage wouldn't return the car to the customer, repaired in that way.
Unless of course it's just for viewing pleasure.
MollyNomad
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 505
- Location
- Scotland
I find the bodges infuriating tbh. And a Freelander is LAND ROVER. NOT A F...ING JEEP!!!
In all seriousness. That boost pipe clip is easy to remove with a sharp bladed chisel and a hammer. A couple of taps to cut the clip and it's off, so the faulty hose can be replaced with a new one, making sure the new clip is oriented to a position where it can be tightened. Why spend hours looking for bits of metal tubing to bodge it. It looks horrible and won't be as reliable as a new replacement hose anyway. Yes maybe if you are stuck in the desert with few spares, do that bodge. But any self respecting garage wouldn't return the car to the customer, repaired in that way.
Unless of course it's just for viewing pleasure.
This 'owner' has, in the past not wanted to pay for 'genuine' parts...He still has to replace a weak battery that has been evident through several videos(filmed over several months)
'Bodges' are NEVER the ideal, if it was a sponsored channel whereby '****Part' or Bearmach were providing sponsorship sure I could understand that a brand new part would be used but as Leon(thats 'Bodgit and Legit BTW) has stated in most of his videos the client wants his vehicle back as soon as possible and doesn't want to pay through the nose for genuine parts(or wait for them to turn up) Whilst that garage isn't on the moon, it does serve a small community at the end of the earth in the Rep of Ireland...Now I would guess that genuine LR parts are 30 percent more there than they are in the UK and postage to the R of I is very expensive....you won't get many 'working' clients opting for a weeks delay in getting their car back nor paying a premium for parts. With regards to the 'right way' to change filter or access it I think you'll find that Leon used a lift....so why go through the wheel arch as a mere 'pleb' would. I would be a 'pleb' as I have a Halfords jack and some axle stands....That car was fixed...end of!!
